I have a Greycat chemise (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/10747433/192068077.jpg) that I just absolutely adore--it has beautiful black edging at the neckline and cuffs. There's a drawstring neckline, and one little thing I've noticed is that the gathers tend to be unevenly distributed--they're nice and ruffly at the front and back, but tend to go kind of flat and un-ruffled at the shoulders, and I spend all day readjusting it so that the gathers are even everywhere.
I'm wondering if I could replace the drawstring with elastic, or maybe sew the gathers in place, or both. Suggestions? If I go with elastic, how in the world do I figure out how much I need?
Laura, I love you and I love the chemise you made me, but after 5 years, it needs a bit of a boost! :D
Gramercy!
Yes, the wrinkles tend to end up in front and back center... It's annoying.
I wondered about one thing.... Raphael's "Donna Velata" shows a drawstring on each side, maybe the same is echoed in the back. Or maybe they're not drawstrings?
DONNA VELATA: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/raphael1514.jpg
Can it be that:
a) The chemise was pleated and tucked down, with no drawstring, and merely opened in front by those gold tips decorated bows? There's been a few portraits of chemise dressed (Venetian) ladies showing this solution. I think this Vecchio painting is another example: http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/largeImage?workNumber=NG3939&collectionPublisherSection=work
b) Could they be possible to open, like described above, and yet be drawstrings?
Or maybe another solution? Either how, they would have made it easier to keep the shoulder area neat and pleated, and not tugged down by the bodice straps or similar. Drawstring all around makes it very easy to adjust the width of the neck opening, but there will be some tugging. It seems like ready-pleated necklines was just as (or maybe even more) common, judging old portraits. Dunno about surviving garbs - the ones at Realm of Venus seems to be a tad later and they all show sewn-down pleats (if I remember correctly) and very decorated necklines.
VARIOUS ITALIAN CHEMISES:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/milano/luini1520s-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/judith1520s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/lotto1523.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/veneto1523.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/ferrara/dossi1525ferrara.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/milano/luini1530.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/pbordone.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/mariettarobusti.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/mantua/romanomantua1531bjpg.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/mantua/tizian1534este.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/roma/caravaggioroma1596.jpg
NOT SURE IF THIS FASHION IS PURELY DECORATIVE OR ACTUALLY FUNCTIONAL....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/mantua/venetobart1500-10.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/mantua/lombardy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/milano/solari1510jpg.jpg
Not sure this answered your question(s).... But it might give a historical perspective of what was common/possible/plausible. :)
What a glorious set of pictures! I particularly like the one of Judith with the sword. That looks like fixed pleats to me, and I love the sleeve/cuff treatment.
(Wanders off thinking about chemise challenge... )
LOL Kate! That sleeve treatment is what caught my eye, too!
I looked at that one in particular also. Kind of made me go "hummmmm.."
That's why I added it to the site (I only have two pure chemise paintings there; the other one being of Marietta Robusti). It's so adapted to the fashion of the era - narrow lower sleeves, and lots of width at the top. Check out the dresses around the Judith one:
http://geocities.com/pisslei/galleryvenice
I'm glad you too found it interesting!
Operafan, GLORIOUS!!
Now, back to my question. ;D Anyone have suggestions for me about adding elastic?
If it were me, I wouldn't add elastic. I have one chemise with elastic and don't like it. I would put the chemise on and adjust the gathers to your liking then tack it in a few places to kept the gathers from shifting.
Ok, adding elastic to a chemice. First, sew an elastic pocket (about 3/4 in) around the entire upper part. Do it about an inch or so below the neckline. Then, measure the elastic around your shoulders. Just pull out a piece and pull it around you, making sure to get the elastic tight enough on you without being uncomfortable. Be sure to get a wider elastic, cause the really thin stuff will cut into you mid day. I'd say go for the 1/4 to 1/2 inch elastic. Then, all you have to do is run the elastic through the pocket, then sew at the ends of the elastic to anchor it in place. Sew your little pockets shut, and VOILA!!!
My chemise has elastic around the top, and I find it too shifts so that the bunching is never even. Pain in the butt!
Hee! After 5 years, my stuff needs a bit of a boost, too. :)
Personally, I'd pull the drawstring out and permanently gather the neckline into place. Run a few rows of gathering stitches around the neckline, and then hand-sew the pleats into place. You could sew a small band on the interior of the chemise to give the pleats stability, perhaps?
Unfortunately, with drawstring or elastic necklines, there's going to be a bit of shifting and bunching. If you want your gathers to be perfectly even, you'll have to stitch them into place. :)
Hope that helps!
Quote from: silverstah on September 05, 2008, 05:39:46 PM
Hee! After 5 years, my stuff needs a bit of a boost, too. :)
Personally, I'd pull the drawstring out and permanently gather the neckline into place. Run a few rows of gathering stitches around the neckline, and then hand-sew the pleats into place. You could sew a small band on the interior of the chemise to give the pleats stability, perhaps?
Unfortunately, with drawstring or elastic necklines, there's going to be a bit of shifting and bunching. If you want your gathers to be perfectly even, you'll have to stitch them into place. :)
Hope that helps!
Yes, brilliant!! That was actually my first instinct--sewing the gathers in place. I can definitely tack them down with some nice linen tape inside.
Happy, happy.... Did I mention that I lurve this chemise? ;D
Hee! Follow your instinct, Gem - you're a wonderful seamstress! :)
*blush* Aw, yay - I'm so glad you're getting SO much enjoyment out of the chemise. And I'm glad to hear that it's held up so well for so long! :)
OK, I gave in and updated the Venetian gallery with chemise paintings as well...
PLEATED NARROW LOWER SLEEVES:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/judith1520s.jpg
VERY FINELY PLEATED:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/tizian1530ish.jpg
GATHERED, SPLIT IN FRONT:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/vecchio1520s-1.jpg
SPLIT AT SHOULDER(S):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/vecchio1520s2.jpg
SPLIT IN FRONT:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/vecchio1520s3-1.jpg
SPLIT IN FRONT:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/pbordone.jpg
BLACKWORKED:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/micheli1550s.jpg
BLACKWORKED WITH LACE CUFFS + PLAIN WHITE:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/fasolo1570sdiv.jpg
GATHERED, WITH LACE TRIM:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/mariettarobusti.jpg
ANOTHER FRONT SPLIT:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/tizian1515-20flora.jpg
WIDE SLEEVES:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/tizian1514mirror.jpg
SKIRT SPLITS?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/bassano1540s.jpg