Does anyone have any experience or an opinion on using Butterick B4985 (I think it was view A) for a partlet? I was thinking of adding a mini-ruff to the neckband and just leaving off the bottom half (under where they have the darts).
Looks plausible... what do you think?
I don't think that would work. The gathers as the bust would be hard to draft out and the fit would be off. Why not just draft your own? It sounds a lot harder than it actually is.
http://www.vertetsable.com/demos_partlets.htm
The above has a great couple of patterns. The historical is really easy. Just make it out of muslin to you can play around with cuts and not worry about the fabric. Once you get a cut you like, you can use that as your pattern forever!
http://www.margospatterns.com/partlet.pdf
A bit more detailed direction on how to draft your own partlet.
The Margo's pattern is the one I use. Go here http://www.margospatterns.com/ to download the printable pattern pieces. Hmmm... that link isn't working correctly so click on the Working Woman's Wardrobe then click the link for adapting the Ladies Wardrobe and you'll get to the page with the pattern.
That exact pattern would need a bunch of 'tweeking' to take it into a partlet, but it's not impossible.
I have never used a shirt pattern to make just a partlet, but I have altered a shirt with a standard collar into something with a little pleated ruff.
All I do for that is make the body and the sleeves of the shirt as called for, but then make a rectangle shaped band for the collar - gather the shirt body to fit and then sew it down. Sometimes I add a small box pleated ruffle on to that collar to make it a bit more middle class.
Quote from: Margaret on November 29, 2008, 09:46:59 AM
That exact pattern would need a bunch of 'tweeking' to take it into a partlet, but it's not impossible.
I have never used a shirt pattern to make just a partlet, but I have altered a shirt with a standard collar into something with a little pleated ruff.
All I do for that is make the body and the sleeves of the shirt as called for, but then make a rectangle shaped band for the collar - gather the shirt body to fit and then sew it down. Sometimes I add a small box pleated ruffle on to that collar to make it a bit more middle class.
That is basically what I want... a partlet blouse. All one piece with sleeves.
The shirt pattern from Period Patterns Tudor Man makes a great template for a partlet.
All you need is the solid back, split front and collar pieces.
(http://www.landsknechts.org/images/pp_men.jpg)
Quote from: Lady Aldyth on December 01, 2008, 12:22:25 PM
Quote from: Margaret on November 29, 2008, 09:46:59 AM
That exact pattern would need a bunch of 'tweeking' to take it into a partlet, but it's not impossible.
I have never used a shirt pattern to make just a partlet, but I have altered a shirt with a standard collar into something with a little pleated ruff.
All I do for that is make the body and the sleeves of the shirt as called for, but then make a rectangle shaped band for the collar - gather the shirt body to fit and then sew it down. Sometimes I add a small box pleated ruffle on to that collar to make it a bit more middle class.
That is basically what I want... a partlet blouse. All one piece with sleeves.
Oops! I misunderstood the original post. I thought you were looking for a partlet rather than a full shirt.
You want a cropped shirt? May I ask why? Why not just make a high-necked smock/chemise, so you don't have to deal with all the separate pieces?
I can understand the desire for a blouse style partlet. I'm building a silk organza white work partlet with spangles and I really don't think it will stand up to frequent washings that it would need were it serving the purpose of a proper smock.
Quote from: gem on December 01, 2008, 07:38:31 PM
You want a cropped shirt? May I ask why? Why not just make a high-necked smock/chemise, so you don't have to deal with all the separate pieces?
VARF is done in 98 degree weather. I need sleeves and the high collar... but could care less if it is full length. I figure I just need it long enough to stay tucked... so cropped would work. Between the shirt, partlet, corset, bodice... your trunk gets a wee bit warm with all the layers! LOL
I can see that. The benefit of making a full-lenght shirt/smock/shift/camicia is that it will protect the corset and outer garbs from your sweat, and it's easier to wash. If you make it of linen, it will also absorb a lot of moist (up to 20%) before feeling wet.
But if it's extremely hot, I can see why you'd want to cut down on the layers, and a "cropped shirt" might be a good solution.
My corset is extremely washable (gotta LOVE those cable ties! LOL)... and I am a non-sweating wonder. Because I do not sweat... I need to stay as cool as possible.
Ok, right, I get that, but you've listed shirt and partlet as two different layers... I'm proposing you combine them into one single (and therefore cooler) garment. Is that what you're wanting to do? (In which case I am on board 100%.) Or were you thinking of wearing a cropped partletshirtthingy by itself? But then what will you wear under your corset? Don't you want the layer of linen between corset and skin?
I do agree with Gem, regardless of sweat or ease of cleaning, you really should wear a smock of some sort between your skin and your corset to prevent chaffing, aka bodice burn (one of two strains of bodice burn that can occur.) Especially if you are doing multiple days without a washing machine or shower, as even the most sweat free person still has body oil and bacteria on their skin. (I know, EWWWW.)
If you are really concerned about heat, use a really light weight cotton lawn, or batiste or a linen cotton blend, or if you can find and afford it, super fine hanky linen. Avoid cotton broad cloth or muslin as they both have pretty tight weaves, and don't buy the heavy linen they sell at Joann's. If you can find a product Joann's calls "Tissue Linen" snatch it up, cause it will be perfect. Lawn, Tissue Linen (a cotton linen blend) etc is a looser weave that allows for more breathing. A layer that is so light weight, like lawn, is not going to make a bit of difference.
I've actually developed a fitted low necked sleeveless smock to wear between corset and skin, for when I wear delicate highly decorative partlets, as I use the sleeves of my blouse style partlets for "pull-throughs" and I don't want the extra bulk of superfluous sleeves.
But if you aren't doing a lot of embroidery or pearling, a go with a high necked smock. It will give you the desired look, it won't be any hotter than a partlet, and keeps it at one simple layer, prevents bodice burn, and all the other nasties mentioned above.
I'd add cotton baptiste and crinkle cotton to the list of good fabrics for hot weather. Linen or a cotton linen blend is also really nice for hot weather. I think you'd want to make a shirt. Crop tops (ie, tops that hit above the navel) are not comfy under a bodice/corset at all. They hurt. The edge of the top will dig into your skin and might leave bruising. I've seen it happen and it's not pretty. A shirt would come down to the upper thigh and work for what you are looking for.
Basically, we want you to wear something under your corset!! :D ;D
Amen!