Since shopping for my new machine, I've been hanging out on the forum at PatternReview, and today somebody posted a wonderful link to a brochure on fitting and pattern sizes, "Do you REALLY Know Your Pattern Size?" (http://www.simplicity.com/section/fittips/fitbrochure/fitbroch.pdf) put out by the Big 3. You can download the .pdf file by clicking that link. (Note: this is intended for women's sizes.)
The brochure explains/includes:
--that the Big 3 (Simplicity and McCall's/Butterick/Vogue) all use the *same* standard size charts
--how (and where) to take measurements
--how to read pattern sizes and select the right one based on your measurements
--how to adjust for a full bust
--information about pattern ease and wearing ease
--industry-standard measurement chart
--measurement worksheet
A lot of this information most of us have to learn through trial and error; it's nice to see it all put together in one place by the pattern companies!
thanks Gem for the great info, i can use all the help i can get. ;)
Great thank you. That will really help me out.
I've had a devil of a time fitting my DDD girl for shows. I've been buying a size larger and taking it in to fit her everywhere but her bust. I'll try their C cup and bigger technique on her next dress. See if that helps her a little better.
I've been afraid to try an honest-to-goodness full-bust alteration on a commercial/mundane pattern, but the Pattern Review folks really recommend the method given in Patti Palmer's book Fit for Real People (http://www.amazon.com/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278656/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1231351979&sr=8-1). I've used Margo Anderson's method of merging pattern sizes in a bodice with great success, but that requires you to have the pattern sizes for both your bust and your shoulder.
Patti's method is a classic and really does work.
One thing to note, specific to sewing for ren faire: if you're buying a Big 3 pattern for a bodice, make sure to check the finished garment measurements and buy the pattern based on those. Some of them have a SIGNIFICANT amount of ease built in and it won't fit if you buy the "right" size pattern based off of your measurements. I've made that mistake a couple of times. The worst was 4" ease in the bust! o.O
Quote from: Elennare on January 07, 2009, 12:36:16 PM
One thing to note, specific to sewing for ren faire: if you're buying a Big 3 pattern for a bodice, make sure to check the finished garment measurements and buy the pattern based on those. Some of them have a SIGNIFICANT amount of ease built in and it won't fit if you buy the "right" size pattern based off of your measurements. I've made that mistake a couple of times. The worst was 4" ease in the bust! o.O
Same here. I tried reading through Big 3 "Know your pattern size" and it doesn't say much about pattern and design ease. It says to watch for the words, "close-fitting" but even those words are misleading. I know, I tried a civil war corset some time ago and it was a disaster.
Lots of other people had the same problem with renfaire bodices and corsets. Here is a fantastic forum specifically for corsets: http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/
And one of my favorite pattern comparisons by Shaerie raulli. She actually made up lots of different corset muslins for use in teaching a corset class which includes some of the Big 3:
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/554657.html
http://community.livejournal.com/corsetmakers/573049.html
I haven't tried Patti Palmers book. Got to give it a read.
TFS! I am so frustrated with trying to buy mundane clothing that fits in the bust without being too large and sloppy looking everywhere else that I think the time has come to teach myself how to make "real clothes".
Get yourself a couple of good fitting guides, and learn to to the Large Bust Adjustment. After that, it's plain sailing.
My best advice is always to add more fabric to the skirt, if you're making a female garb. The times I've tried Simplicity and Butterick, the skirts have been too narrow to achieve the right look. Well, I'm aiming for a fairly historical correct look, but still - a bit more fabric for the skirts is still adviceable.