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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Margaret on January 12, 2009, 06:39:53 AM

Title: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Margaret on January 12, 2009, 06:39:53 AM
I have some pretty dupioni silk that I plan on turning into a doublet.

The issue at hand is that I don't want to to be too wrinkled in appearance, so I plan on backing it with some fusable interfacing for some stability.  I am just unsure of which weight to go with.

The light weight stuff seems too, well - light weight and I have not found anything else that I am totally happy with.

So, suggest way please!   :)
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 12, 2009, 12:14:13 PM
Margaret!!!


If at all possible, DO NOT USE fusible Interfacing on Dupioni Silk. Use instead a Quilter's Broadcloth or a 100% Cotton Twill to underline the Silk, then line it.

Fusible Interfacing bubbles when there is too much heat. There are also  non-fusible, loosely woven interfacings used for Suit making that require hand basting. Something like tht would give the Dupioni Silk body and still breathe.
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: DonaCatalina on January 12, 2009, 01:29:50 PM
***awakes from swoon***
;)

I use quilter's 100% cotton fabric to line dupioni if it's a part of the doublet that needs body.
That usually provides more than enough body for doublets and jerkins.
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on January 12, 2009, 04:10:42 PM
I have to concur.  Fusible interfacing (especially th non-woven stuff) is death on dupion silk.  Use a light weight tailoring canvas (sew in type), or silk organza.  With the organza, you can add to layers for body while adding very little weight.
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Syrilla on January 13, 2009, 09:47:26 PM
Listen to the Ladies, You will be on your hand and knees thanking them for stopping you.
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 14, 2009, 09:10:42 AM


Margaret!!

One of my upcoming commissions is an Elizabethan gown that will be made from an embroidered Dupioni Silk for the Overskirt and Bodice. I will be using a heavier Quilter's Broiadcloth to both Underline and Line the bodice. There will be 2 layers of Cotton Canvas Duck as well for a firmer, unwrinkled look. I have plemty of the Broadcloth for the Underskirt as well to set the forepart on.

I hope you have chosen not to use fusible interfacing.
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Artemisia on January 14, 2009, 10:22:07 AM
/on nosy/
What's quilters cotton? I tried googling it and can't find it.
Can you provide a link, pretty please?

Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 14, 2009, 12:11:19 PM


Quilter's Broadcloth is a heavier, sturdier Cotton Broadcloth. JoAnn and Hancock Fabrics carry it. It's what Quilter's use to reinforce their layers with.
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Margaret on January 16, 2009, 06:56:50 AM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 14, 2009, 09:10:42 AM



I hope you have chosen not to use fusible interfacing.

Oh - I am still working on the toile for fitting, so I am no where near cutting or lining the main fabric yet.

Just getting my ducks in a row, so thanks for the advise everyone!   :-*
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Artemisia on January 16, 2009, 10:38:53 AM
Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 14, 2009, 12:11:19 PM


Quilter's Broadcloth is a heavier, sturdier Cotton Broadcloth. JoAnn and Hancock Fabrics carry it. It's what Quilter's use to reinforce their layers with.

You mean this?
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3077&PRODID=prd14825
Title: Re: Which weight of interfacting to use...
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on January 16, 2009, 10:59:20 AM


That's the stuff!!!  Works great!!!