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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Marietta Graziella on February 03, 2009, 09:20:11 AM

Title: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Marietta Graziella on February 03, 2009, 09:20:11 AM
This is a constant struggle for me...

I like to make bodices reversible for maximum usage but I always run into construction issues. 

Here's the current question:
I am working on a very basic Celtic dress, open front bodice, attached skirt.  Nothing fussy. 
Fashion fabric is wool (about as heavy as a military blanket-but not as stiff),
2 layers of muslin for boning (I know most Celtic dresses don't have extensive boning but I have rather large tracks of land and want them to stay in the highlands, not the lowlands)
Lining is cotton duck, but not as thick or stiff
The attached skirt would be of the wool so when I turned it around I'd have the brown bodice top with a tartan skirt, if that makes sense.

So, since I don't want to using edge binding, how do I put this all together AND be reversable?   Please help!
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on February 03, 2009, 12:29:19 PM
Bodice:  Make two outer shells w/an outside seam allowance of about 1/2".  You;ll need enough free fabric on the front in which to make your grommet holes.  Make an inner lining consisting of boned layers.  Baste the boned part to the wrong side of one of your fashion shells EXCEPT FOR THE BOTTOM.  Now, w/the right sides together, sew up the whole magilla, trim & press the seams and turn right side out through the bottom.  There may be a fiddly part with the arm holes - it's been a while since I've made one.

Skirt.  Make your two skirts & pleat the top as necessary to fit on the bodice.  Stay stitch the pleats.  Right sides together, stitch it all the way around EXCEPT FOR THE TOP.  Trim & press the seams and upper seam allowance.  Turn right side out.  Pin one side of the skirt to one side of the bodice and machine stitch.  Hand stitch the other side of the skirt to the other side of the bodice.
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Marietta Graziella on February 03, 2009, 02:38:43 PM
That's just it, Taffy, I get all faklempt with the shoulders and arm wholes.  The other part is easy.  Sigh. 

Aha!  I'm going to Baroness Doune's page!
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on February 03, 2009, 08:25:28 PM
After thinking about it, I think I left the top - shoulder - seam open,& then turned it right side out.  Then carefully machine stitched one side & hand stitched the other.  It's fiddly, but can be done.  Trimming the seam was very important to avoid a big bunch of fabric.
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Marietta Graziella on February 04, 2009, 07:29:10 AM
The answer was waiting for me, as I knew it would be, in Baroness Doune's pages.  I should've looked there before posting.

I have all the Margo Anderson patterns and there is a great deal of fantastic information but I just didn't see it when reading the notes for construction of the bodice.  After reading thru Baroness's pages I found what I was looking for.  It's called the Gold Medal Lining Method.   Easily understood, easy to follow, and all of your edges and clean and finished with only a 6" space to hand sew closed.  Whoot!

Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on February 04, 2009, 07:41:51 AM
Have fun w/your new project!
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: LadyShadow on February 05, 2009, 08:29:54 AM
What other tips does this Baroness have?  I think I just might have to look her and them up.
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Taffy Saltwater on February 05, 2009, 10:00:56 AM
Yes, tell us more of this Baroness - like her web page.
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Marietta Graziella on February 05, 2009, 12:56:40 PM
Baroness Doune is a member on this forum.
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: Sitara on February 05, 2009, 01:56:13 PM
Here is the link to her site http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/about.html (http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/about.html) The Baroness has some lovely diaries and various construction techniques and tips that come in very handy.
Title: Re: Construction for Reversible Bodice
Post by: LadyShadow on February 05, 2009, 02:37:32 PM
Oh, thank you for sharing.