Here's a thought to chew around.
Should a skirt be pleated in the same fashion all the way around? Discussion welcome, (in)decision mine. LOL
What bring this up is my elizabethan (late 1500 middles) kirtle project.
I have a side lacing (underarm) kirtle in the works. The back is cartridge pleated and attached (2 fabric widths). I'm am working on the front skirt. I plan a flat front approximately center to hip bone and then pleats to side opening (1 fabric width).
Should I:
1- cartridge pleat to side seam
2- knife pleat to side
3- single knife from hip into cartridge to side
4- other?
I'd keep the same pleats all the way around. You might want to look at dress number three on this page:
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/FlorenceFiles/Extant16thCSottanaTuscany.html
Since it's similar in style to what I think you are looking for.
No idea if this will be any help at all, but check out this dress diary (http://www.alyxxndon.com/Alyxx/PDSvNDiary.htm#kirtle) (scroll waaaaay down to the bottom for kirtle photos). She has beautiful images of the way her side-lacing kirtle is pleated (box pleats in the back and none past the side laces). If you *really* wanted to mix pleats, box pleats play nicely with knife pleats, and might look like they make more sense together than mixing cartridge pleats with something else...?
(Sempstress.org also has some great photos of kirtle pleats in her draping section.)