1) What kind of equipment are people using to project patterns for enlargement?
2) Anyone using a scanner and large scale printer/plotter? I think the toner for a large-scale printer would become expensive, but it's a neat option.
3) I have been looking at some cheap old former-school-type overhead projectors, but the concept of distortion came to mind. How are people dealing with distortion when projecting onto a wall?
3a) Is anyone using distortion to their ADVANTAGE e.g. widening or lenghthening an image?
4) Are you making some kind of mark on the film that you can verify the integrity of the image to prevent distortion?
5) Also, is anyone projecting downwards...using some kind of projector mount or sideways projector maybe? Perhaps directly down onto fabric?
If you have pics or details of your setup, please share =)
I'm just a home user looking to play with some of the wonderful information in The Tudor Tailor and Patterns of Fashion, etc.
Thanks to all for your input (in advance)
I don't use any kind of projector. I draw it out on a grid.
We have an overhead projector, and I have printed graph paper to the proper scale (according to whatever the book says) on transparencies, with the plan to then trace the reduced patterns onto the transparencies, and then project onto 1x1" grid paper taped to the wall. I think it *should* work, but I haven't tried it yet.
Sealion's method might just be easier.
I don't have any type of projector either. I just use a pencil, measuring tape and large white paper.
Yep, I have extrapolated the XXL and XXXL sizes on a pattern by using a white paper that is thin enough to see the original pattern through. I just follow the expanding lines and corners to enlarge (or diminish) the pattern to the size needed.
I take the difference from Small to Large and Large to Extra-Large, find the average change, and add it to find the XX-Large, then the XXX-Large points.
Hope that makes sense
Ok, I have been giving this some more thought...
If you have a diagram that has a center front or back line of say, for example, 3" and you want it to be 36", then you would mark point a on the paper, then multiply 3 x 12=36" and mark point b on the paper. From there, you would multiply all the other measurements by 12" (that being the ratio) and mark each point the same way. Such as, for shoulder, side seam, neck, etc. Then connect the points. ( I don't *know* that the number is actually 12, just an example)
_ a
| b
\ c
--- d
sort of like that, I wish I could just draw it on here.
Where are you all finding paper big enough to draw patterns? School supply stores or Michael's or something? Cardstock is expensive where I am - $1 a sheet and it's not really big enough to draw an entire skirt gore on one piece.
I've been playing with a piece of demo shareware software called "PosterPrint" - and another free software called Rasterbator (funny name...) - both of which can mega-enlarge small scans/photos/drawnings/images into multi-sheet printouts that you can tape together and cut out. It works, but it's hard to get them to the right size.
Thanks for all the input so far! =)
I have heard many people mention using the back of wrapping paper, particularly the wrapping paper that has grid marks on the back.
Quote from: Trillium on March 05, 2009, 07:51:13 AM
I have heard many people mention using the back of wrapping paper, particularly the wrapping paper that has grid marks on the back.
that is a fantastic idea!!
just found:
http://www.geyerinstructional.com/0f69e1dd5d795a9d5de5e2b69228907a.item (http://www.geyerinstructional.com/0f69e1dd5d795a9d5de5e2b69228907a.item)
http://www.1st-quality-school-supplies.com/pac-7786-0.html (http://www.1st-quality-school-supplies.com/pac-7786-0.html)
I use dot & cross pattern making paper, like this: (http://www.morplan.com/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/images/full/L4-40036.jpg) I buy it by the roll from Morplan here in the UK: http://www.morplan.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/TopCategories_10053_10001
Quote from: Tixi on March 05, 2009, 07:49:02 AM
Where are you all finding paper big enough to draw patterns? School supply stores or Michael's or something? Cardstock is expensive where I am - $1 a sheet and it's not really big enough to draw an entire skirt gore on one piece.
I've been playing with a piece of demo shareware software called "PosterPrint" - and another free software called Rasterbator (funny name...) - both of which can mega-enlarge small scans/photos/drawnings/images into multi-sheet printouts that you can tape together and cut out. It works, but it's hard to get them to the right size.
Thanks for all the input so far! =)
I use white backed wrapping paper.
The ones with plaid patterns on the front can provide you with grid lines to work with.
Quote from: Trillium on March 05, 2009, 07:51:13 AM
I have heard many people mention using the back of wrapping paper, particularly the wrapping paper that has grid marks on the back.
Yup. That's what I use. There's also a product that's kind of like interfacing made for this purpose: Pellon Tru-Grid (http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CATID=cat3136&PRODID=prd14647). At 45" wide, it's probably a little bigger than even most large-size wrapping paper (but, then, I've never needed to draft a pattern for a skirt).
It doesn't have a grid, but I use the big rolls of brown paper for wrapping/mailing packages. Its fairly cheap, and pretty durable. Only trouble it its usually in roll that are not as wide as butcher paper or wrapping paper, but the rolls are plenty long. I've drafted skirts, bodices, and all kinds of kids garb, but its too narrow for a large chemise.
Having a projector of some kind for enlarging stuff sounds wonderful, especially as most of what I make is for kids, and they grow so fast I have to redraw everything each time. Alas, I've neither space of money for such equipement.
I know some copy places can print on lrge rolls, and may be able to blow up an image that large, but I haven't even worked with stuff like that for over ten years.
Anyway, thats my two bits.
Quote from: Tixi on March 05, 2009, 07:49:02 AM
Where are you all finding paper big enough to draw patterns? School supply stores or Michael's or something?
No, husband brought home a huge roll, it must be 6 feet tall and who knows how long. It's white paper, no lines or grids. It's heavier than text weight, but not as heavy as card stock. I will have to ask him where he got it, but I know it was free.
End of a roll or something like that.
Usually, I draft my patterns on white tissue paper, but it doesn't come as big. Works for sleeves, bodices, blouses and kid's sizes.
I have never used a store bought pattern and tend to draft my ourn, or redesign other pattern sketches that I've either made or found, so I don't know how usabe this will be, but heres what I do.
When ever I need to rescale a pattern, I use a grid method, sort of. I'll draw the major and minor axis' on the small scall sketch or pattern. So thats the vertical center line, horizontal line for the top of the shoulder, horizontal line just below the curve from the shoulder about level with the coller bone, horizontal line at what would be the base of the chest, opening for the arms, waist, and hips if its a pattern that is that long. then if there are any distinctive changes in direction along the border, I'll also mark that.
I use news print to draw out my new pattern. I have a 24x36 50 page book of it from an art store. Usually is just large enough for me to draft my patterns using a page for each section of the pattern.
I'll take that "grid" I drew on the starting pattern and I'll start with the center line adjusted to my height and the line at the shoulders adjusted to fit my shoulder width. From there, I'll draw in the rest of the horizontal lines and place a mark on them where the outline will need to run through. To figure out where that mark needs to be, I basicly do the same thing that Lady L does to figure the ratio. After this, its almost like connect the dots, then curve out the lines to fit the original pattern.
Takes a bit of work, but I've NEVER had issues with garb fitting properly.
I've used an overhead projector and made sure that there was a box on the pattern that equaled 1 inch, so I was able to easily know if it was in scale or not.
On smaller items I've scaled patterns up on the computer and yes, taped the pieces together to make the pattern. I used the same trick to make sure that the scale was correct as I did w/ overheads, it's time consuming and I used a fair amount of tape, but it works well.
Quote from: Lady L on March 05, 2009, 11:31:24 PM
Quote from: Tixi on March 05, 2009, 07:49:02 AM
Where are you all finding paper big enough to draw patterns? School supply stores or Michael's or something?
No, husband brought home a huge roll, it must be 6 feet tall and who knows how long. It's white paper, no lines or grids. It's heavier than text weight, but not as heavy as card stock. I will have to ask him where he got it, but I know it was free.
End of a roll or something like that.
He said he got it at a manufacturing place. I don't know where you live, but here in MN we have some paper mills and Wisc does too. Maybe you could ask there. He said the roll weighs about 200 pounds.
Here is a diagram I made up to explain better what I meant about enlarging a pattern.
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s216/Lady_L_MN/patterndiagramtempsm.jpg)
Now, however long you want the center back to be, is how much you multiply and then just plot the points on the paper. Connect the dots on the paper and you have it. You can get a french curve sewing sloper, if you can't draw the curves. ( I think that's what it's called)
::prints out topic and places in sewing binder::
God I love you guys.
???
Okay, I tried the plot/grid thing and it didn't work for me.
My problem is finding the correct angle to line up a point.
For example, I place my ruler at the shoulder point. Now how do I know the ruler is at the correct angle? Should I use my yardstick to line up a shoulder point with the bottom waist point as reference? Should that work?
Also, are there any books on the subject?
Yes, "Make Your Own Patterns" by Rene Bergh is a very good one. I got it with a coupon at Joanns. Measurements in inches and centimeters. Shows you the very basics of pattern drafting. They start with a rectangle and tell you what points to plot.
Also includes patterns that are quarter scale and info on how to grade patterns up or down. :) They measure from the bust point, radiating outwards to enlarge the diagram, for example.
"The Medieval Tailor's Assistant -making common garments 1200-1500" by Sarah Thursfield (measurements are in centimeters though) has excellent diagrams. Planning directly from personal measurements to make a block, then from block to pattern. They also have 121 patterns and diagrams. :)
Both books explain the steps far better than I can on here.
Quote from: Lady L on April 01, 2009, 11:18:22 PM
"The Medieval Tailor's Assistant -making common garments 1200-1500" by Sarah Thursfield
Ooooh... I will definitely try to pick that one up - Most modern books on the subject of pattern drafting make use of a lot of those irritating darts.
Thanks!
Here is a site link from Burda that says you can enlarge a pattern up to 3 sizes bigger. It is for Burda patterns but I don't think that it really matters, I'm sure one of the seamstress can correct me if I'm wrong and please do if I am. I don't know if works yet as I'm going to give it a try soon hopefully.
http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/636
I bought a roll of painters paper at Home Depot - 4 ft wide and who knows how many feet long - for about $9 and have been using it for years to draft my patterns. It is heavy weight and durable and cheap.
I have The Medieval Tailors Assistant. It's an excellent book! I started with only the basic tunic sloper and in a couple of years graduated to drape fitting the venetian you see in my avatar.
"Make Your Own Patterns" by Rene Bergh sounds excellent. Will pick up a copy.
I also have another How to Make Sewing Patterns (http://www.amazon.com/Make-Sewing-Patterns-Donald-McCunn/dp/0932538002/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1238691845&sr=8-4) but that book was next to useless to me.
I'd rather first learn how to enlarge an existing pattern so I can really understand the drafting process. Then I'll graduate to drawing my own.
Lady Serena that link will be useful to me. It explains alot.
I use packaging paper - guess painters paper is of heavier stock. To make sure I've got my lines straight I first use gift wrapping paper with the grid on the back - thanks to Mags for that one.
Woohoo, lots to learn and do!
Quote from: lady serena on April 02, 2009, 09:02:13 AMI don't know if works yet as I'm going to give it a try soon hopefully. http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/636
Yep, that is exactly how I do it! It takes some work on the curves, but it works.
Quote from: Artemisia on April 01, 2009, 11:39:46 AM
For example, I place my ruler at the shoulder point. Now how do I know the ruler is at the correct angle?
Maybe you won't get the *correct* angle on the first attempt. Recently, I drafted a bodice pattern for my granddaughter and made up a muslin. I needed to take off a quarter inch from the outside edge of the shoulder seam, because her shoulders are a little more slanted, but it wasn't off by much.
I think you would get close, but then everyone's shape is different, so you need to make adjustments, according to your personal measurements. But then, if you know that you always need to "take in" or "add to" somewhere, you could just transfer that info to the next patterns you make. :)
I don't usually have much problem, but I do have basic drafting skills and I use dot & cross paper... A set of French Curves helps! ;D
I think practice helps, as with anything.
Today, I was talking with my daughterinlaw on the phone. After we hung up, I measured and drew a pattern for my granddaughter. I even surprised myself that it came out exactly right on the first attempt! By the time my daughterinlaw arrived (a few minutes drive across town) I had the seam allowances added and cut out the pattern. ;D
I just eyeballed drawing the curves and it was perfect! Usually, I have to fold it in half to make both sides even. I must be improving.
My advice is, just keep at it.
Well, here's what I do to enlarge a pattern from the small ones you find in books and such: I use my cutting mat & tailor's chalk. If you go to my website (http://www.myfairelady.com/?page_id=119) & scroll down to the middle of the "Dorothea" page, you can see what I mean.
Since doing it this way produces just a larger version of the pattern in the book, I still will probably have to make alterations to it so that it fits my body, but I can't even start to explain how I go about doing that. It's just one of those things that, like LadyL said, takes practice, and I'm sure the authors of the books already mentioned do a muuuch better job than I ever could at explaining it.
molly: That is BRILLIANT!!!!