I am making my first attempt at making a boned corset using the Corset Pattern Generator as a start. My question is how much boning does one use? I a bit uncertain about how much is needed in the back. I am on the plus size so I am not sure if I need to use more.
Or better yet, what is the average used in the back and in the front.
Any help would be wonderful.
Thanks!
Here's a picture of mine Genievea.
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l142/Marianna00/003-2.jpg)
(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l142/Marianna00/002-3.jpg)
There's one along the outside edge of the front lacing, then two more lengthwise at the front. The sides get three at an angle and then three long and two short angled at the back. I'm plenty full figured and it's plenty of boning. My experince with the first corset I made (this one was purchased, but it was the same effigy pattern) was I over boned it and about passed out in the heat. Less boning means more breathability!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y15/Sweete-Ladye/Garb/boningpat.gif)
This is the pattern I use when boning my corsets. It was taken from Drea's Elizabethan Costume Page in her Custome Corset Generator.
I use 1/4" flat steel bones and it usually comes out to about 22 bones per side.
Since the 'Bethans were all about the flat front look - the boning is concentrated in the front. The two vertical bones right in the middle of the pattern fall right under your armpit, so you can see how the back to front boning compares.
As much as I like the metal boning, I perfer using the heavy duty plastic Cable Ties. Flexible, yet surdy. I use, depending on the size of corset, 16 to 20 spaced about 1 1/2" apart.
Though Corset construction varies depending how much support is needed.
Thank you so much ladies!
I am doing the corset that Mistress Margaret posted. I had 1/8 ties on hand so I am using those at the moment.
(http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss89/Genievea/020-1.jpg)
This is what I have in progress so now my other question is, if I am not going to have a busk do I leave that part unboned?
From my own experience I will say that those cable ties will offer only mininmal support and you may want to include a busk. It will help a little if you can double up the cable ties in the front. I made my first (and only so far) corset using the Margo Anderson pattern and after stitching all the boning channels I found that the heavy cable ties wouldn't fit so I had to go with the thinner ones.(I've read that the pattern has been updated with wider channels to accomodate the rigid cable ties.) The thin ties weren't rigid enough for the proper silhouette so I crammed more into the front and that helped. I eventually added a wooden busk because the cable ties would bow out at the waist after sitting for any period of time and stay that way when I stood up. the wooden busk eliminated that problem. Anyway I guess my point is that, if you aren't as lazy as I am, you might want to pick out and redo the channels so you can use thicker cable ties from the get go.
Edited to add: This link will take you to my corset blog posts so you can see what I am talking about-
http://who-gives-a.blogspot.com/search/label/corset
Wonderful! Thank you sooo much for all the input!
I lost my busk some time ago and was just too lazy to make a new one - so I have been going without one. I have not noticed a lack of support or anything.
However, I don't have much to support at all, you may want to look into getting and/or making a busk.
My busk is a paint stick form Home Depot! :D
Well lol I will be ripping out some channels as stated the little ties aren't giving the girls the support they need. There are about 100 of those little buggers in the corset, both going in the top and bottom to give support and it looks silly and not quit squishing and pushing the way it should. I have to say for the first try the fit came out pretty good. Just a few adjustments and I think it will be a perfect fit.
And I too saw the paint sticks for the busk idea so that and thicker straps are on the shopping list for Home Depot.
I will post a pic when its finished I don't want to scare anyone away right now!
Thank you Ladies for all your help. I have learned so much from reading these forum and links. Everyone here is truly amazing.
I used the corset generator twice. The first one had a busk and was made with some sew-in boning I had left over from another job. It worked quite well. You can see that one here: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Corset_works/corset_works.htm
The second was more a boned bodice, but I did bone it fully. It doesn't have a busk as it opens up the front: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Kate%27s_Klobber/black_bodice.htm
For this second one I slid two pieces of boning into the channels next to the opening. It works quite well.
(And yes, I lost a lot of weight between the two corsets, so I know both ends of the spectrum, as it were).
I'd certainly say you need to consider a few things:
If you are doing it back laced with no front opening, use a busk.
Put extra boning or some heavy duty metal boning either side of the back laced opening, between the lacing holes and the edge.
I much prefer stitched eyelets to grommets. Whichever you use, the smaller the better, and no more than an inch apart!
For a front opening version without a busk, put two heavy duty bones in a single casing either side of the opening, between the holes and the edge. This will mimic the busk and help with the flat front.
I have not yet used cable ties, though I have some to experiment with. Your ties look much lighter than mine, and you are already discovering you need something sturdier.
The corset I'm just finishing for a customer is a Victorian one with a front opening busk and spiral steel bones. It works very nicely for that sort of corset, but don't use spiral steel for an Elizabethan: too flexible. HEAVY cable ties (mine are HUGE!), flat steel, or the plastic whalebone type are what you need. Don't bother with Rigeline or other light weight stuff intended for modern boned bodices, where the bones just help the bodice to hold shape rather than helping to shape you.
You look amazing Kate! Thank you for the links. I am off to quest for heavy cable ties and hope to have the corset completed tonight (the innards at least).
I too am plus size and decided to use the heavy duty ties for my mock up before buying actual boning. Because these ties are wider, I kept the boning in the same area as shown from the custom pattern generator but changed the size of the channels. I was able to use fewer ties to cover the same area. I found it supported so well, I didn't bother with actual boning for my real corset but kept the cable ties. Sorry you have to rip out some channels, but is it really sewing if you're not ripping some of it out :P
heheeh don't the little drops of blood from being pricked by the seam ripper add character to the garment LOL Besides it gives me something to do as I diligantly watch my work monitor ;D