I work at a Renaissance Fair and I would like to make a different chemise to wear with my costume. I'm looking for something other than the standard off-the-shoulder style. I've worn this kind before and it just tends to pop-up over my shoulders while I'm working. It doesn't have to be 100% historically accurate, but it has to be close enough to please the costume mistress. I'd prefer something short-sleeved, it just isn't feasible to wear long sleeves when working there. I have a little experience making costumes, but not a lot. I'd prefer a pattern, as I can't afford to buy one, but pictures or suggestions would be useful, too. I'd appreciate any suggestions, really, historically accurate or not.
Thanks for all your help!
Have you looked at Drea Lead's chemise pattern generator?
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/chemise.html
Working-class Italian women frequently wore shorter (or rolled up) sleeves:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/images/work3.jpg
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/wkclass/images/work10.jpg
If your library has a copy of Meredith Wright's EVERYDAY DRESS IN RURAL AMERICA (http://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Dress-Rural-America-1783-1800/dp/0486273202/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1213313920&sr=8-1), I've had great results (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17273772/314740287.jpg) with the shift pattern in there. The pattern is really for a late 18th C. shift, but the silhouette is very similar to the English Renaissance smock, and I used it to make my early Tudor chemise (no pix; I haven't yet decided on the neckline). I'm fairly certain that there's also a smock pattern in THE TUDOR TAILOR (http://www.tudortailor.com/bookshoptt.htm), as well.
As for a commercial pattern, if you live anywhere near a Joann/Hancock/Hobby Lobby, they have regular pattern sales for the "Big 3" (Simplicity/McCall's/Butterick), for 99 cents or $1.99. You can find out about upcoming sales on the stores' websites. Most of us stock up then!
Good luck!
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e109/LadyReneeBuchanan/Stronghold19elinorswannLadyRenee.jpg)
The yellow chemise I am wearing is for the 95+ degree days during the Midwest summer. My friend made it for me from one of the Big 3 patterns (don't know which one) that cost 99 cents in about an hour.
This was taken at Stronghold in 2007, in October, it was unseasonably almost 100 degrees, and it was nice and cool to wear it (this past year in 2008, it was in the 50's and raining).
Jennifer Thompson has a rather good chemise pattern online. It gives you a wide, Italian chemise with long sleeves - but should be easy enough to make with short (puffed) sleeves with a little alternation. You can also make it shorter, which probably working class women would have used them:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html
I made a chemise based on this pattern a year ago. My sleeves are shorter and narrower, but still very full:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/venetian/italiancamicia.jpg
I use the pattern that operafantomet recommends and since I am butt lazy I use elastic for the neckline rather than try to make umpteen little pleats. I'd make the sleeves about 10-12" long, make a thin hem, and put bias tape about 2" from the hem to make a casing for the elastic.
I have found that replacing the elastic on a off the shoulder chemise with a drawstring solved my problem with it popping up over my shoulder. I snipped the elastic and pulled it out of the casing, then replaced it with a thin grosgrain ribbon and have not had that problem since...
You would then be looking for a Smock or Shirte pattern
I have a couple that are free and some that cost money but are also very good.
Free Smock Patterns
Drea Leed's Smock Generator
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat)
Dawn's Patterns
www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm (http://www.reddawn.net/costume/patterns.htm)
Renaissance Tailor
http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_shirt_old.htm (http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_shirt_old.htm)
Patterns for Purchase
Margo Anderson's Patterns
http://www.margospatterns.com/elizup.htm (http://www.margospatterns.com/elizup.htm)
I hope this helps!
Cilean