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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Baroness de Vale on June 02, 2009, 08:50:39 AM

Title: Does Someone have Instructions for a Pillbox Hat
Post by: Baroness de Vale on June 02, 2009, 08:50:39 AM
OK I want to make a pillbox hat using plastic canvas. This is the very first hat I will have ever made and I have an idea how to make it. I'm just hoping someone could give me some detailed instructions. That way I'll be less likely to spend time fixing a mistake because I'm guessing. I really appreciate any help anyone could give me!
Title: Re: Does Someone have Instructions for a Pillbox Hat
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 02, 2009, 09:09:25 AM


Baroness De Vale!!!

(http://lynnmcmasters.com/hatsfullsize/BcoverF.jpg)Lynn McMasters has a Pill Box Hat pattern using Buckram or Plastic Canvas.(http://lynnmcmasters.com/hatsfullsize/brimlesshats.jpeg)

Also, I have seen patterns from the Big 3 where you can adapt the top and lower  parts of the Crown to make a Pill Box.

Here are some links....

http://www.vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-036.html (http://www.vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-036.html)

http://www.straw.com/cpy/patterns/bags/redhat-pillbox-felt.html (http://www.straw.com/cpy/patterns/bags/redhat-pillbox-felt.html)

Hope this helps
Title: Re: Does Someone have Instructions for a Pillbox Hat
Post by: DonaCatalina on June 02, 2009, 09:10:25 AM
http://www.vintagesewing.info/1950s/52-hmh/hmh-035.html
Making a Pill Box Frame
PILL BOX CROWN (ILLUS. 1)
Use correct headsize pattern on page 14 for top of crown. Place pattern on a piece of elastic net, mark around pattern and cut out elastic net on line marked. Mark back and front of crown. (Use pencil or tailor's chalk for marking).

PILL BOX SIDE CROWN
Decide height you want Pill Box to be, and cut a bias piece of elastic net the length of your headsize measurement, and allow 2" for lapping. Cut width of bias piece to correspond with height Pill Box is to be.

WIRING TOP OF PILL BOX (ILLUS. 2)
Measure a wire to fit top of Pill Box frame, join ends of wire with a wire joiner, and sew wire around edge, using a button hole stitch.

SEWING SIDE CROWN TO TOP OF PILL BOX
(Illus. 3) Hold edge of bias side crown piece to wired top piece and overcast together. Lap ends of bias side crown and sew flat.

WIRING BOTTOM OF PILL BOX (ILLUS. 4)
Measure a wire to fit bottom of Pill Box frame, join ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew wire around bottom of frame using a button hole stitch.

BINDING WIRES ON PILL BOX FRAME
Cut a 2" bias strip of crinoline (stretch bias strip of crinoline before using). Fold crinoline over wired edges and baste crinoline to frame.

NON-HEADSIZE PILL BOX FRAME
Decide on size non-headsize Pill Box is to be, and decrease pattern for top to correspond in size, with that exception, follow instructions above for making non-headsize Pill Box frame.

Instructions for covering Pill Box frame page 36.
Title: Re: Does Someone have Instructions for a Pillbox Hat
Post by: Cilean on June 02, 2009, 01:19:30 PM


I just wanted to say it is easy to use Lynn's Pattern with Plastic Canvas for this pattern. I do use 1 padding of flannel so that the hat will not have the plastic showing through.

Cilean  ;D


Title: Re: Does Someone have Instructions for a Pillbox Hat
Post by: gem on June 02, 2009, 02:14:44 PM
Baroness!!  You'll never guess!  I found Orphena's original instructions! They were buried in my email inbox, but I've saved them all this time.

Here you go:

Quote1. Find a plate or bowl of the "right" dimension - a pill box should almost perch on your head, so go for the "snack" plates, rather than dinner ones.
2. Trace around the circle. Cut 2 of fabric, and one of plastic canvas. Cut one of felt (optional - but it hides the holes in the canvas and gives the hat a nicer look).
3.Tape or stitch the felt to the plastic canvas. Sandwich the felt/canvas layer between the fabric circles, and stitch around the circle, encasing the felt/canvas layer.
4. Measure around the circle to get the circumference, and add 2 inches to that measurement. Cut out a strip of canvas as long as that and between 2 and 4 inches wide. Again, cut a layer of felt, and a piece of fabric slightly longer and twice as wide (plus seam allowance).
5. Tape/sew the felt to the canvas, encase in fabric. Bring the ends together, and slide one end inside the other, finish the ends.
6. Push the top of the hat into place from the bottom (hiding the rough edges on the inside of the hat), and handstitch it into place.
7. Trim with beads and feathers. Handstich small loops or ribbon around the inside edge of the hat - I like about 5 - slide a bobby pin through the loop, and secure it to your hair.  (Gem adds: I use a comb, instead of pins, but do what would work best for your hair.)

The first step, yes, the fabric should be about a half inch wider on all sides so that you have enough room for a seam allowance. You can do it on the machine - stitch around half of the circle, then slide the canvas/felt in and finish going around the circle. If its terribly important that you not have any rough edges showing on the inside of the hat (I wasn't, for my first few hats) then you should plan to sew around the first half of the circle, flip the fabric, insert the canvas/felt, and finish the circle by hand. This method looks nicer on the inside, but it makes it a bit more finicky to secure the top to the sides - For a first hat, I recommend not worrying about how the inside of your hat looks - a hat like this is unlikely to be taken off to show the inside.

To make your life easier, some places sell circular pieces of plastic canvas - I know Walmart carries them. These are easier to cut into a circle - you just count the number of rows you want to remove, and follow the lines - it leaves a cleaner edge than using the normal rectangular style of plastic canvas.

Here is a pic of the "first" version of this hat - you can see how lopsided it is - the hat has since been redone with an even circle - but of course I don't have pictures of a closeup. Anywho, perhaps a flawed version will be more helpful. The gold beads on the side are stitched right through the hat, and catch those rough edges on the inside of the hat - they were added last. The pearls on the top hide the hand stitching where I secured top to sides. It's best to put a few stitches in strategic places to hold the top in place - ie, stitch the top to the sides at 12, 3, 6, and 9 (Reference to a face clock) before going all the way around.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/ShariO/Costume/hat1.jpg


Title: Re: Does Someone have Instructions for a Pillbox Hat
Post by: Baroness de Vale on June 02, 2009, 03:49:36 PM
Thanks everyone! I can't wait to get started! I have to finish my brother's breeches but maybe I'll save this for a nighttime project. I can't run the sewing machine for several hours at night until the girls are very fast asleep. I tend to do all my handsewing then so this would be perfect!
Title: Re: Does Someone have Instructions for a Pillbox Hat
Post by: NicoleBridget on June 02, 2009, 04:26:16 PM
I just wanted to poke my head in and say that I've used the Lynn McMasters pattern and it worked out really well.