Feh. So I was movin' right along with my pattern for Promenade, using the Henrician kirtle pattern in Tudor Tailor. Remembering that there was a lovely photo tutorial for fitting a bodice mockup in that book, I turned to it--only to discover that there is ANOTHER kirtle pattern in that book! (GAH!!!)
The Henrician kirtle has an elaborate boning diagram that arches below the curve of the breast, similar to the historical "Dorothea bodies." Here is a picture (http://www.myfairelady.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/Fancy-Dorothea-Bodies-Side-View-Copyrighted%20copy.jpg) of our own Mollymishap's Dorothea bodies, so you can see what I mean about the way the boning stops in a U shape, cupping the curve of the breast.
The OTHER kirtle doesn't have an included boning diagram, but the photos of the fitting show the boning going all the way up *over* the curve of the breast, the way I think most of us are familiar with (like in the Custom Corset Generator pattern (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/corsets/images/boningpat.gif)).
????
THIS is why I never get anything made, people! Which do I want? How do I know?
Help me choose something!
Here's Promenade (http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/19463764/321733460.jpg) again, which is circa 1500.
I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but the models used in Tudor Tailor have very different physiques. The model used for the "normal boning" kirtle appears to be very small-busted, while the Henrician kirtle model is much more amply endowed (like me).
At this point I really just want to be able to decide on something and make it. I think the "normal boning" would be a lot easier, but I already have the pattern for the other started. Will it make a difference? Since the picture of Promenade appears to be *completely* flat I realize anything worn by me is going to be a mere approximation, but still. (And then, of course, I'm totally paralyzed by trying to decide whether/how much/how to bone the mockup, and whether I can make the mockup from the canvas I'm going to line it with, and... But that's a meltdown for another post!)
Help!!!
Oh Gem, I love reading your sewing adventures because, ultimately, you always come up with something amazing.
Just from the picture of the promenade that you want to make, which I think is going to be incredible, I'd go with the flat, all bone corset from the CPG. The one with the unboned breast area doesn't look like it would give the right silhouette for that dress.
I think I'd be making a fully boned Corset generator style corset with a busk to wear under a lightly boned bodice in that style... It would give you the flat silhouette and the smoothness of the bodice front. Or make the bodice as a corset with the outer covering fabric not sewn into the boning channels.
Thanks. I've decided to bone the mockup the "normal" way--all the way to the top. Lots of vertical boning in the middle, angling out toward the sides. Wish me luck! I have my first fitting/class tonight...
Kate, believe me, I considered that! But I *really* wanted to make this kirtle supportive. First, to see if I could, and second, to reduce layers in Kansas's 90-degree heat.
I'm with you, Gem! ;D