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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: PrincessSara on June 21, 2009, 11:03:08 PM

Title: Rolled hems - how?
Post by: PrincessSara on June 21, 2009, 11:03:08 PM
I got myself a rolled hem foot (Viking) but I can't figure out the instructions on the package.  I looked up instructions onlilne too but I just ended up making a mess.  How do I do a 5mm rolled hem?
Title: Re: Rolled hems - how?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 21, 2009, 11:09:36 PM


I too have a rolled hem foot for my Janome. I  hardly
ever use it because I like to do a wider hand rolled hem.

Here is how I do mine(I do a lot of Prom and Bridal hems that are rolled.) I serge my hem edge. Then I take the width of the serged edge and carefully fold it over and press it ona  Cotton or Silk setting . Then I roll it again and sew it down. The rolled hem comes out cleaner and more even.
Title: Re: Rolled hems - how?
Post by: gem on June 22, 2009, 12:37:18 AM
I have the Viking rolled hem foot, too (tho' I have not yet used it).  I was a little disappointed after I bought it, because apparently (?) it does not do a true *rolled* hem.  It makes a very narrow hem, yes, but it's flat (a straight stitch down the length of the hem, rather than some kind of zig zag that catches the edge of the fabric and rolls it).  Is that part of the problem you're having, maybe?

(And FWIW, a "rolled hem" is one of the things I wanted my new machine to do, because doing them by hand is a PITA and a guaranteed mess.  Feh.)
Title: Re: Rolled hems - how?
Post by: Kate XXXXXX on June 22, 2009, 02:37:36 AM
Yes, it will do a miniature flat hem rather than a true rolled hem.  The best instructions I've ever seen are in here:

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51LtgZKwVlL._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-click,TopRight,35,-76_AA240_SH20_OU02_.jpg)

You should be able to get a hem like this:
(http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Costuming/Creating-a-Court-Gown/narrowhem.JPG)

WARNING:  There IS a learning curve!  It takes practice...
Title: Re: Rolled hems - how?
Post by: sealion on June 22, 2009, 06:43:35 AM
Gee, maybe I'm not so crazy to prefer hand sewing after all! LOL
Title: Re: Rolled hems - how?
Post by: mollymishap on June 22, 2009, 09:31:26 AM
I have one of those feet.  Several, actually.  In different sizes even.  I will only use them when I have to do a loooooong and straight-on-the-grain seam like in ruffs or the bottom of chemises or curtain panels.  You get the picture.

Otherwise, if there's even the slightest bit of curve, I get wonky curly seams which bug the daylight out of me. 

So, for curvey seams, I opt for pressing the seam and then pinning it and then using a regular foot to sew it in place.  It will be wider than 5mm by doing it this way, but that works for me.

Maybe I just need practice, like Kate said, but I don't want to bother with learning that skill.  I need to create a small curvey rolled hem so very infrequently that it's just not worth it to me.
Title: Re: Rolled hems - how?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on June 22, 2009, 10:42:17 AM


When I was at the Costume Shop for many years, the rolled hems I did on Prom and Bridal hems were hand rolled. It was easier for me that way. They take time, but came out cleaner.

Another reason I do them by hand is that they come out better. When working with the Bridal Satins that are a bit heavier, I do a 1'2" rolled hem. That gives some weight to the hem and looks better overall.

A good trick when hemming Bridal, I decide the new hem line, gently iron it, then I measure 1" down from the new hem line. Serge the newly cut edge. Turn up 1/2", press, then another 1/2". Works every time. Many of the skills I need for Alterations goes into the Costuming as well.