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Faire Garb => Garbing => Topic started by: Ludovi on August 29, 2009, 07:57:55 PM

Title: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Ludovi on August 29, 2009, 07:57:55 PM
I know that this is probably one of the simplest things to solve, but for me, it's been a consistent issue.

Shirts. I cannot find a shirt that wears well under my bodice (the one in my photograph, a lovely piece from silver leaf designs) without either coming up to my chin, or wrinkling terribly under the bodice ties and causing me terrible discomfort. Is this simply my error in looking? Are there certain guidelines I should be looking for?

The shirt I was wearing in the photograph was guilty of the second problem, and also had quite short sleeves, which I do not want- I have wider arms, and feel uncomfortable in cap sleeved things.

Please tell me that there is something out there, and that I'm just looking in the wrong places!

Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: sealion on August 29, 2009, 08:14:38 PM
Have you tried a chemise of linen or thin muslin? I find that, even though there *is* alot of fabric bunched under the corset/bodice, it doesn't *feel* bunchy and uncomfortable if you are wearing thin fabric as opposed to the chemises out there that are made of poly/cotton broadcloth.
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Ludovi on August 29, 2009, 08:36:07 PM
I've never been sure what the fabric is, I've just known that when they bunched they weren't that comfy. I don't think they were muslin though, because I've tried looking for them before.

Are there any good places that I can find one?
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Lady_Claira on August 29, 2009, 09:07:52 PM
There might also be the possibility of getting one that isn't so loose fitting. Maybe one with a bit tighter area around the chest/stomach might help it bunch less and be more comfortable.
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: gem on August 29, 2009, 09:39:01 PM
This might be an easier problem to solve if you sew.  You can make a closer-fitting period smock/chemise, like this one from Simplicity (http://www.simplicity.com/p-1576-costumes.aspx):
(http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/simplicity/2621/2621fb.gif)

I can't really tell what the one you have on in your avatar looks like (I actually thought it was a mundane T-shirt).

Most of the garbmongers that sell chemises sell the fuller ones, but you might try Very Merry Seamstress (http://www.verymerryseamstress.com/chemises.htm).
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Ludovi on August 29, 2009, 09:54:39 PM
It was a mundane t-shirt (though it worked for that day) and I may attempt sewing that pattern, considering that it seems quite lovely, I was actually just hoping to find something that worked better than the shirt i had prior to that one. I'm not opposed to sewing, but sometimes it can get pricey for the materials, and I am on a bit of a tighter budget. That's my only concern about it. I have actually sewn quite a bit of my garb.
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: sealion on August 29, 2009, 10:08:36 PM
If I recall correctly JoAnn's will have the Simplicity patterns on sale over Labor Day weekend for either 99 cents or $1.99 and some bleached muslin should be about a buck a yard. I'd try that pattern in inexpensive muslin to see how you like it then if you do you can make another one in the lightweight 60/40 linen cotton blend usually available at JoAnn's.
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Ludovi on August 29, 2009, 10:12:39 PM
Oh how I do love JoAnn's fabrics... I'll have to put it on my calendar to go up there for the sale. We don't have a fabric store in my town anymore, I'm afraid.
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: isabelladangelo on August 29, 2009, 10:15:39 PM
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/chemise.html

Above is the pattern I use for my drawstring chemises.   I actually use the 36" muslin which is really cheap.   Get one of the 40% off coupons from Joanns and you can make the entire chemise for under $5.   
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Lady Rebecca on August 30, 2009, 12:45:57 AM
I tried doing that Simplicity pattern for the chemise, and it was just terrible. I don't know what happened with it, but the sleeves are really tight at the shoulders, and the shoulder themselves are ridiculously wide. So I definitely don't recommend using that one.

The chemise that I almost always use came out of the Butterick wench type pattern. I don't have access to the pattern right now, so I don't have the exact #. I just made it out of a lightweight cotton. I've never had a bunchy shirt problem with it, despite the bagginess, but I also wear a normal camisole under it. Maybe that's something that would help?
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: sealion on August 30, 2009, 07:51:18 AM
I've got a couple that were made using the Festive Attyre instructions plus a few made using the Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/ and construction instructions: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/smockpat/sewsmock.html
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Butch on August 30, 2009, 12:18:49 PM
I pretty much use this pattern for all of my HA shirts:
http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=ec&menu=ec&mn=tm&m=kess_shirforallseason

I made some with ruffles (box pleated or knife pleated) at both the collar and the cuffs, and I have made others with no pleats.  AND I have made some with pleated collars and unpleated cuffs.

You could use this pattern, and then make a square, scooped, or drawstring opening.

Very simple construction, and quite comfortable.

I've made all of mine from either white muslin or unbleached muslin.
Title: Re: Underbodice shirts?
Post by: Bonny Pearl on August 30, 2009, 12:37:53 PM
I have purchased a couple of 'peasant tops' from Lost Island Trading Company.  They have elastic at the waist, but they are really quite comfy under a bodice.  Plus they are cute as 'dane' wear.  :)

www.lostislandtrading.com

Forgot to mention that the sizes run small on the tops, so go up one size for sure if you order from them.