I made a flop hat or flat hat last night to go with my new garb but I am confused about feathers. I have seen several images with and with out and was wondering if feathers in caps were a *marker* for class in society? Also is there a specific side that feathers should be on or does that really matter?
If I were to put feathers in my cap is there a specific length they should be or just proportionate?
Any help would be much appreciated!
Gens~
If you are going for the Historically Accurate in playing a Noblewoman, feathers such as small plumes, Peasant and peacock, do denote upper or Noble classes.
But have fun anyway. Feathers do add a nice touch to hats.
Thanks Lady K.
I am not going H/A or a upper/ Noble, but was courious as so many things in garbing as I have learned just from reading these forums do have a place in society, I didnt want to be too off wall. hehehe
Feathers/buttons(without holes)/extra material in clothing pieces (arms, etc..)/shiny things all denote your wealth...and in this case class.
Certain colors were normally class specific as well. I'ld stay away from true black and red unless you are in the nobility class. Purple is a big no-no unless you are high nobility.
In my opinion (HA or not) you can never have enough feathers in your hat....
I must be high nobility - I like purple :)
My usual peasant flat hat device is a small skull (usually ermine) with some multi-colored hackles sticking out the back. The middle class hat has a miniature wolf skull carved out of bone mounted on a bone disk with hackles out the back. I've had no trouble having either pass the Costume Dept.
Quote from: Gauwyn of Brocknell on September 10, 2009, 05:24:49 PM
I must be high nobility - I like purple :)
I'm just saying thats the typical cast guidelines. If you are a playton I say wear whatever you want...it's your dime.
I'm 90% black and Red...good thing my character is a Baron.
I'd say you've gotten pretty good advice so far. As for the side... Eh.. It's been my experience that they tend to be worn on the right. All of my hats seem to have the feathers on the right. That goes for the one's I've bought that already came with feathers and the ones I've added feathers too. Have fun and good luck!
I have red, black and yellow on my green hat, to match the colors in the Buchanan tartan. I also transfer these to my pirate hat when I wear it. On the pirate hat, I also have some peacock feathers and some that are brown with black tips. My feathers are all on the left side, because I'm left handed and find it easier to hold them in place with my right hand and sew with my left (to either attach them to the brooch that's pinned on the hat, or in the case of the pirate hat, underneath one of the sides, I sewed and elastic loop to slide the feathers through).
On my husband's noble hat, he has maroon, yellow, and white, and on his Cavalier hat, he has green and black.
Our colors match our garb. Haven't given any thought of what colors to wear/not to wear, except for purple, which is considered a no-no at Bristol, even for playtrons.
Mine are on the left, since the hat is cavaliered (not sure if that is a real word), but being a right handed swordsman, the left side is up and holds the feathers ( to keep from hitting the brim when the sword is drawn - which actually never happens :) )
Thank you all so much for the information! The hat is still featherless at the moment but not for long ;D
I would think it would have been possible for all but the lowest classes to have had the opportunity to have had feathers, in one form or another.
I would assume that the biggest difference would have been in the quality and perhaps quantity. But quality, like all things, would likely be the truest marker of class.
Large plumes, exquisite colors, rare bird sources, sourced from exotic far off lands - these would be reserved for the nobility or upper middles (Middle class would have certainly tried to emulate the nobility, but limited means and sumptuary laws would have prevented them from from having the 'best' and most exotic feathers).
However, one can find shed feathers from wild birds, or gather fallen ones from livestock, receive them as gifts from their employer, hand-me-downs, or take a few while plucking the master's dinner...
For a lower-class ensemble, I would try to stick to feathers from local native birds (maybe that would have been eaten or seen regularly?). For middle class, perhaps extend that to more exotic native birds, or birds from nearby lands.
I think it would also depend on the intention of the outfit and the activities you will be engaging in - are you to be working somewhere where feathers would likely be impractical? e.g. doing the wash or tending to a kitchen? Or will you be doing something where you will not be working and want to look your best (going to the market, courting, visiting the pub, visiting family/friends, attending church, etc).
If this is for Faire, I would say it would likely be more of a market/pub/visiting situation so feathers if you have the means (or no feathers - whatever) would be appropriate. But if you are going to be doing historical re-enacting, or trying to achieve an extreme lower class leper look, then I would forgo the feathers altogether.
Another thing (again, I am speculating based on my readings and own logic) that may have been mildly important was the vertical stature of any feathers being worn. This is not so much an issue with a flat cap as it would be with a tall hat or riding hat. But a vertical feather would likely be seen as inappropriate for any without elevated means, while a horizontal feather may have been preferred for the more humble or subordinate classes.
Thanks Trixi, alot of great information there to think about for the future!
Never thought about the vertical stature of the feather on a hat but what you said certainly is logical and makes a lot of sense.
Great stuff, thanks all!
Everyone here is such a wealth of information and greatly appreciated.
Gauwyn, If I remember correctly the major reason the brim was pinned up on one side for a cavalier hat (or muskateer hat if you will) was to keep it away from the flint when firing a rifle. So if you are right handed it should be pinned up on the right as you would hold your rifle to your right shoulder.
Quote from: LordPaulet on September 11, 2009, 01:08:46 PM
Gauwyn, If I remember correctly the major reason the brim was pinned up on one side for a cavalier hat (or muskateer hat if you will) was to keep it away from the flint when firing a rifle. So if you are right handed it should be pinned up on the right as you would hold your rifle to your right shoulder.
I'm sure this subject could spark a lively debate. I have also found this (on a hat shop website):
"In the seventeenth century, the swaggering Cavalier hat was conspicuous with broad brim either rolled or cocked and ornamented with long ostrich feathers, "weeping plumes." The crown was often encircled with a jeweled necklace or a silk band sewn with gems. A large gold ornament held the plumes. In those days of free sword play, the feathers were placed to the back or left side of the hat, permitting freedom of the sword arm. Too, the hat ornament was often a love token, and the position on the left side signified the heart or love. The decoration has ever since remained on the left side. "
There are several things i find to be conspicuous about this statement. Cavalier hats were at their height of fashion during the english civil war...mid 1600's. I wouldnt call those days "free sword play" in fact many towns had laws and such of even having a sword upon ones person in the town. Also everyone associates this style of hat with the Musketeers, being so called as their primary weapon was the musket...lol unfortunatly I do not have the time at the moment to currently scour the internet for a historical resource....however, I hardly count a hat shop's website as a site for quotation for historical debate. :D
OK!
After researching period portraits of Musketeers, cavaliers, and anyone wearing a cavalier style hat (upper class to soldiers) there is NO real diffinitive side as to which should or should not be pinned up. I think its more personal preference at the time. Heck thats probably how the tricorn was born...someone got bored and pinned them all up :P silly
Quote from: Genievea Brookstone on September 10, 2009, 09:47:15 AM
I made a flop hat or flat hat last night to go with my new garb but I am confused about feathers. I have seen several images with and with out and was wondering if feathers in caps were a *marker* for class in society? Also is there a specific side that feathers should be on or does that really matter?
If I were to put feathers in my cap is there a specific length they should be or just proportionate?
Any help would be much appreciated!
Gens~
Besides the status, H/A, and other parameters, I will add practical to the list.
I never really thought about which side might be proper, I usually attach mine to the upside of the hat tilt so they don't brush against my shoulder when I turn my head.The length issue I will add the thought of your fellows. Long feathers sticking behind you bear the same responsibility as wearing a scabbard. Many times I have been in the lanes or at a show where someone had overly long or a plentiful array of plumes and been oblivious to those they were annoying, attacking or blocking when they turned their head.
I suggest you make the feather grouping into a pin or two to attach to the hat. One; you can change them from hat to hat, two; they can be removed for bad weather or washing the hat. If you are attaching the feathers permenantly by sewing into the hat I would lean to natural feathers. I would recommend against any dyed/colored or dye enhanced feathers (ie:colored peacock) in a permenantly attached grouping because of rain. Many of the colored feathers will bleed when they get wet. They can drip on to your garb and leave stains on it or your hat. Many folks have hats that can withstand being wet and just unclip the feathers and stash them away from the wet. Other folks create a separate "rain hat" to wear and stash the elaborate one away from the weather.
I went to the craft shop and bought a bag of flat back pins in the jewelry section. I used thread to whipstich/lash the feather(s) to the pin and then glued the thread to stabilize it further. Now I have several that I can mix and match as the urge and outfit calls to me. Forgive me if this has been mentioned already, some times the posts overlap in reading. I also saw mentioned on a thread using the boutineer cone pins from the bridal section as a way of stuffng/gluing several plumes together in one pin.
On the snarky (in my humble opinion) side, thank you for making a hat to wear. It so finishes and completes the outfit. Hats were such an integral and required part of life until quite recently when they became a very optional accessory. So many folks spend such time and money on wonderful outfits and then miss the mark when they do not dress their hair and/or wear a hat.
Have a merry and magical time.
Fionna
Quote from: LordPaulet on September 12, 2009, 12:43:40 AM
There are several things i find to be conspicuous about this statement. Cavalier hats were at their height of fashion during the english civil war...mid 1600's. I wouldnt call those days "free sword play" in fact many towns had laws and such of even having a sword upon ones person in the town. Also everyone associates this style of hat with the Musketeers, being so called as their primary weapon was the musket...lol unfortunatly I do not have the time at the moment to currently scour the internet for a historical resource....however, I hardly count a hat shop's website as a site for quotation for historical debate. :D
I got my information from the internet -it
HAS to be true :D :D :D
Quote from: Gauwyn of Brocknell on September 12, 2009, 09:12:22 AM
Quote from: LordPaulet on September 12, 2009, 12:43:40 AM
There are several things i find to be conspicuous about this statement. Cavalier hats were at their height of fashion during the english civil war...mid 1600's. I wouldnt call those days "free sword play" in fact many towns had laws and such of even having a sword upon ones person in the town. Also everyone associates this style of hat with the Musketeers, being so called as their primary weapon was the musket...lol unfortunatly I do not have the time at the moment to currently scour the internet for a historical resource....however, I hardly count a hat shop's website as a site for quotation for historical debate. :D
I got my information from the internet -it HAS to be true :D :D :D
I now know why my professors HATE the internet lol :D
I really like Wiki - if you don't like what you are reading you can just change it :)
This is unrelated to the topic, except that it is about headgarbs...
Some weeks ago (months, even?) someone asked about a funky headgarb depicted in the "Romance de la rose" illumination. Today I found a semi-large version of it, in Taschen's newest (gorgeous!) book on illuminations. I took a couple of pics of it, and although I still can't say for sure what she's wearing on her head (either a pointed hat/cap or a hairnet of some sort) I wanted to ask if the person requested pictures still needs it.
Anyone?
Anea, I'm pretty sure that was Princess Sara. You might PM her, or just post it to a new thread so we can all drool! ;D
Ha-ha... Pardon my laziness, but I'll post'em here. They are hat related, after all. ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/th_romrose1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/romrose1.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/th_romrose2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/romrose2.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/th_romrose3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/romrose3.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/th_romrose4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/romrose4.jpg)
The women in picture 3 and 4 seems to wear similar head garbs, while the woman in picture 2 seems to wear the forerunner of the Tudor gable hood.
Hmmm... still hard to say, isn't it?! I'm going to guess, though, that the one in Picture #4 (the one Sara was wondering about) is wearing an elaborate up-do of her hair (as conjectured by MollyMishap, IIRC), covered in a beaded net (with a jewelled edge). Most of the "hat" shape is exactly the same color as her hair, but I think I can see regularly-spaced faint reddish dots that may be beads (or maybe just knots).
I'm not sure Sara is reading this thread, though, so I'll go PM her to come look.
unless on pictures 4 that is not her hair at all and is a veil sticking out of a (what reminds me of) a russion/tibetian style crown/headdress?
Oh operafan, those are great! Thank you so much for posting those pictures. What's the name of the book they came from?
As for the netting vs. hat debate, the lady in picture 3 appears to be wearing a coif, but I'm still not sure that the lady in picture 4 is wearing a hairnet.
Both of these ladies' hats have little "pooks" on top, but in #3 you can see that this pook is clearly part of the hat and not made by the hair. So how would lady #4 get a hairnet to pook? By the transitive properties of pooks if one is part of the hat, shouldn't the other also be part of the hat? It seems a little too coincidental for them to both have this feature on the headdress, yet one is fabric and one is a hair.
Lady #4's headdress is very structured and clearly not soft - yes, she could do this with a lot of hairstyling and then cover it with the net, but then why is lady #3's headdress so limp? If lady #4 can make her hair defy gravity, why can't lady #3?
And yes, the area between the netting seems to be the same colour as her hair, but then, the net is the same colour as her hair too. It looks a little lighter because it has less shading.
You know, when you see her close up you can see that lady #4 doesn't look too happy. I wonder why that is, when she's in the Garden of Mirth?