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Faire Garb => Sewing => Topic started by: Dallan on September 23, 2009, 04:06:54 PM

Title: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Dallan on September 23, 2009, 04:06:54 PM
I need honesty here. My wife and I usually buy most of our garb but she is looking for a saffron peasant skirt; not an easy color to find. I was thinking that it might be nice to make one for her. Here's the thing; I have never sewn a thing in my life. I have access to a sewing machine and I'm sure I can find a pattern but what do I do from there and should I try to tackle this project? I have no idea as to even the simplest things like, what type of material to use. I know that many of you are accomplished seamstresses (not sure of the male version, seammisters?)but please try and put that aside and give me an honest opinion. Should I try to tackle this or am I asking for trouble. I do have faire friends who will do it for me for a reasonable price. Will it likely look like it was homemade my a novice? Thanks.
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: bellevivre on September 23, 2009, 04:17:16 PM
Male Seamstress= Tailor  :D


Check your local fabric stores- if it's a peasant's look she wants, I'd go with cotton broadcloth

For the skirt, again, as it's a peasant's skirt shaping isnt neccessary- you can essentially sew a tube, fold over the top edge to be a drawstring casing, and hem the bottom for as tall or short she is- this method also means you dont have to deal with raw edges, etc.

hope that helps!
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: gem on September 23, 2009, 04:38:16 PM
A peasant skirt is a *perfect* first project!!  And I say this as someone who found sewing really, really difficult as a raw beginner.  So when I say something is easy, you can believe me.  I promise: you can do this.  And your wife will be SO THRILLED with you!

We will help you.

You will need: a pattern; fabric; thread; and basic notions such as needles (for hand sewing and for the machine), pins, a seam ripper, new sharp scissors (for cutting the fabric; trust us on this!), a ruler and tape measure, and a drawstring or elastic for the waistband.

Fabric
For my peasant skirts, I use the 100% cotton (or the poly-cotton blend) broadcloth sold in the quilting section at JoAnn or Hobby Lobby.  It's easy to work with, reasonably-priced (you'll pay anywhere from $2-$6 a yard, and you'll need about 4 yards), and comes in every color you could want.  The all-cotton wrinkles a little more than the poly-cotton.  I've used both; both work fine. 

Pattern
I would recommend hitting one of the pattern sales at JoAnn or Hancock, if you have them locally.  Patterns from Simplicity, McCall, and Butterick go on sale for 99 cents or $1.99 *frequently*, and you can check the Pattern Sales thread at the top of this page for updated listings.

I use a pattern very similar to this Simplicity Pattern (http://www.simplicity.com/p-1943-costumes.aspx).  I am a very, very slow seamstress and I can make one beginning to end in an afternoon.  I'd give yourself a good weekend to work on it.

There are also several free skirt patterns/instructions available online, but when I was very new to sewing, I found commercial patterns a little easier to use.  But here is one site with great instructions (http://www.reddawn.net/costume/skirt.htm) (similar to the ones Bellevivre posted)

What you do from there.
1. Measure your wife.  Patterns are sized differently than ready-to-wear clothing.  For a skirt, you'll need her waist and hip measurement.  Compare those to the back of the pattern envelope, and buy the amount of fabric listed for her size.  Ask the people at the store for help if necessary.

2. Study your pattern.  Read through the instruction sheets a couple of times, until you have a sense of what it is you'll be doing, and how the garment goes together.  The instructions will include a diagram of how to cut the pattern pieces out of the fabric.

3. Take your fabric home, and wash and dry it.  This is very important, as you do not want the fabric to bleed or shrink *after* you've made a skirt with it!

4. Unfold the pattern tissues, and find the pieces you'll be working with.  Rough-cut them out of your pattern, and very gently press them with a warm, dry iron.  This will make working with them a gazillion times easier.  Lay them out on the fabric according to the diagram, pin them in place, and cut them out, following the size line on the pattern.  With a skirt, you will likely be using the same one or two pieces several times over.  You'll have several panels for the skirt, plus a piece for the waistband.

5. A skirt goes together like this:
A. Sew the long seams of the skirt panels, following the pattern instructions
B. Gather or pleat the top of the skirt (we will help you with this step, if your pattern does not include basic instructions)
C. Construct the waistband
D. Attach the waistband to the skirt.
E. Hem (finish the bottom edge to the right length for your wife).

All of these are the very most basic sewing skills imaginable, and you will pick them up in no time.  Whoever owns the machine you have access to will be able to help you, as well. 

I say, GO FOR IT!!  You've picked a perfect project, and the folks here can help you out if you get stuck anywhere along the line.

Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: operafantomet on September 23, 2009, 04:46:38 PM
Quote from: bellevivre on September 23, 2009, 04:17:16 PM
Male Seamstress= Tailor  :D

Actually, "seamster" is the male equivalent of female "seamstress" (seam-master VS seam-mistress). "Tailor" refer to both.

I agree with Bellevivre's tube-and-drawstring suggestion! An alternative is to make a tube, gather the top with a thread, and then sew the pleats to a strip of fabric (waistband) - see an instruction here: http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=8365.0 Remember to make an opening, so she'll get in and out of the skirt. The ends can be attached with hooks and eyes or similar.

The fuller you make the skirt, the more "right" it'll probably end up looking. I find that Simplicity and other commercial patterns often suggest too little width to the skirts, so don't be afraid to add half an inch extra. :)

ETA: wow, Gem has posted very useful helps while I dug up that link. I'm sure others will join in too. So many talented people here!
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Dayna on September 23, 2009, 07:16:33 PM
I'm the laziest when it comes to this.  Buy 45 inch wide fabric, I use 3 yards for most of my wench skirts, no hoops.  Also buy a packet of 3/4 inch non-rolling elastic (it comes a yard to a packet).

Wash and dry it first!  Pin the two ends together and then it won't wad and twist so badly in the washer. 

Sew the two ends together.  Fold the top over 1 inch and sew it down, leave an inch or so open.  That's the casing. 

Cut two feet off of the elastic, stick a safety pin in it and thread it through the casing.  It helps to pin the other end to the fabric so you don't pull it through.  Gather the fabric as you go along, and make sure the elastic doesn't twist but rather lies flat all the way around.  Hold one end of the elastic over the other, and sew back and forth over the doubled area.

Put the skirt on your wife, mark the bottom where you want it, fold up and sew.  If your wife has a natural bumroll, as I do, the hem will be shorter in back because of the bumroll effect.  Just mark every 4 inches or so, and when you fold it over, ease the curve a bit.  Or, mark it at the back, turn it up evenly all around, and she'll have to hike it up a bit in front under her bodice.

No patterns, no cutting, no problem.

Dayna
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: LordPaulet on September 23, 2009, 11:21:21 PM
Seamster refers to a male who fabricates garments, Seamstress refers to a female who fabricates garments, and Tailor refers to a male or female who alters already fabricated garments :D
Good luck and welcome to the club of Seamsters on RF.com!
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: operafantomet on September 24, 2009, 02:20:36 AM
Quote from: LordPaulet on September 23, 2009, 11:21:21 PM
Seamster refers to a male who fabricates garments, Seamstress refers to a female who fabricates garments, and Tailor refers to a male or female who alters already fabricated garments :D
No, no, no! Anyone with the title tailor would be greatly offended by that explanation. It's true that many modern tailors spend their days altering ready-made garbs, but that's a very new phenomenon, after mass-production of clothes kicked in. A true tailor is a master seamster/seamstress. What separated them from the seamster/seamstress was the skill to cut clothes (I.E. make patterns) - which was the original profession of a tailor. The word "tailor" comes from old-French "tailleour" and refers to a cutter, someone dividing a large piece into smaller ones (compare to modern Italian "taglio" - piece).
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Margaret on September 24, 2009, 05:58:51 AM
Quote from: Dallan on September 23, 2009, 04:06:54 PM
I need honesty here. My wife and I usually buy most of our garb but she is looking for a saffron peasant skirt; not an easy color to find. I was thinking that it might be nice to make one for her. Here's the thing; I have never sewn a thing in my life. I have access to a sewing machine and I'm sure I can find a pattern but what do I do from there and should I try to tackle this project? I have no idea as to even the simplest things like, what type of material to use. I know that many of you are accomplished seamstresses (not sure of the male version, seammisters?)but please try and put that aside and give me an honest opinion. Should I try to tackle this or am I asking for trouble. I do have faire friends who will do it for me for a reasonable price. Will it likely look like it was homemade my a novice? Thanks.

You have gotten awesome advise on how to make the skirt, so I will go in another direction.


You can do this.  Back when I first started sewing my own garb, the last garment I had sewn was in 8th grade home ec. class.  I had picked up machine quilting, but that was just sewing stuff in a straight line.   I got up the nerve, picked up an easy Simplicity skirt pattern and I have not looked back since.

You CAN make this skirt.  It WILL look good.  If I can sew - anyone can do it.  Really.

Good luck and I can not wait to see your finished project!!

Be warned though..You are about to step out on a slippery slope!!  Once you start sewing your own stuff - it's hard to look back!!!    :D
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: LadyShadow on September 24, 2009, 07:21:04 AM
Best of luck.  My Husband last year sewed an item or two to help me out in my busy schedule.  He had questions and needed a couple of things clarified for him.  But all in all it was easy to do.  Best of luck.
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Cilean on September 24, 2009, 12:57:25 PM
Quote from: Dallan on September 23, 2009, 04:06:54 PM
I need honesty here. My wife and I usually buy most of our garb but she is looking for a saffron peasant skirt; not an easy color to find. I was thinking that it might be nice to make one for her. Here's the thing; I have never sewn a thing in my life. I have access to a sewing machine and I'm sure I can find a pattern but what do I do from there and should I try to tackle this project? I have no idea as to even the simplest things like, what type of material to use. I know that many of you are accomplished seamstresses (not sure of the male version, seammisters?)but please try and put that aside and give me an honest opinion. Should I try to tackle this or am I asking for trouble. I do have faire friends who will do it for me for a reasonable price. Will it likely look like it was homemade my a novice? Thanks.



My Answer for you would be WHY NOT? Once you see how easy it is to make something and the cost effectiveness? When others check out your lady and you know it is because you made that piece? It is awesome!!  I bet this experience will get you to attempt even more, it is like crack!

Basic 6 gore skirt should not be more than $20.00 and that is making it with really expensive fabrics!!  I bet you could have an awesome safforn for your lady.  Joann's circular has dozens of coupons this month so do check out what you can!!

Good Luck
Cilean




Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Dallan on September 24, 2009, 01:58:26 PM
Thanks all. Very helpful.
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: DragonWing on September 24, 2009, 02:46:53 PM
There is not a thing I can add to this other than "Good Luck".
I am sure you will do fine. As Gem said, it is a Perfect first project.
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Pascal on September 24, 2009, 02:53:37 PM
I'm a guy who sews (long story, began years ago when my wife was sick and my daughter needed a costume.  I figured that I can follow woodworking and auto mechanic instructions, so a sewing pattern shouldn't be that hard -- boy, was I wrong!).

I've seen people use the generic term "sewers" -- problem being that it's also the same way you spell conduits of noxious fluids.  I think "sewist" is a good compromise.  Or, I don't sweat it if someone calls me a "seamstress" -- I know what they mean.

The "3 yards of 44 inch wide fabric sewn into big tube" advice works fine.  That'll give you about 106" of circumference at the bottom of the skirt -- which will "twirl" nicely.  The only problem is that you'll also have 106" of circumference at the waist.  It'll gather up nicely with elastic, but if your fabric is a little heavy your wife might feel there's too much at her waist.  I think this method skirt looks fine, but if it's a problem ...

... Then you can go the "gore" route.  Cut trapezoids -- 10" long at top, 20" long at bottom; each can be about 36" tall.  Join 5 at the edges and you'll have a conical "tube" that's 50" circumference at the top and 100" at the bottom (minus seam allowance).  About the same amount of twirl, but much less at the waist.  Takes a little more time, but you can use the same "hem casing and elastic at waist, hem length to suit" technique.   I like the look of either -- but I'm not wearing it, so defer to those who do.  Only takes about 2 1/2 yards if you go this route -- you can alternate your trapezoids so that 20" is at the top, then 10" is at the top, then 20", then 10", etc.

This is a really good beginning project -- tip when sewing:  Don't watch the needle!  Watch the fabric at the front of your sewing foot instead -- it's a lot easier to sew straight seamlines if you do.

Basic cottons is good advice -- I believe Hancocks has their "Kona" cotton on sale for 2.88 a yard for the next few days -- at least on their website (http://www.hancockfabrics.com).  That's a really good quality cotton and a good price.  
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Dayna on September 25, 2009, 02:53:03 PM
Pascal has a point, I'm a woman of abundance, so it doesn't look out-of-scale, plus it's covered by the bodice.  If you are of the slender persuasion, that might be too much bulk, in which case the gore method would be better.

Also, I use Kona cotton for many of the skirts I make for myself and others, it works well, especially if you are going to be wearing two skirts as a good wench does.  A single layer Might be a bit see through if the light is right.  As before wash and dry (on high) twice to make sure it's shrunk as much as it's going to before you make the skirt.  There's nothing worse than making the perfect length skirt, then washing it and It's Too Short!!!

Dayna
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Athena on September 25, 2009, 03:36:52 PM
YES!!! Go for it! I started sewing under the same circumstances. I could never find garb in the colors I liked but I would always see those colors in fabric stores, so I took the plunge. I was nervous about it, because I had also sewn in middle school home ec and the experience was so off-putting I never went near a sewing machine again. That is until nearly two years ago.  :)  Fitted garments are still a challenge for me, but skirts and shifts are a breeze. I bet you'll learn to make a skirt in no time!

The one thing that's important is to start off slowly, and don't put a time limit on yourself. When you rush you get flustered and make mistakes. Use the time you have in the off season to browse fabric stores and work on your sewing skills. You'll be surprised at how easy and enjoyable it is! Good luck!
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Lady Mikayla of Phoenicia on September 25, 2009, 04:30:13 PM
Peasant skirts are the first thing I sewed too Dallan, good luck!
Title: Re: To sew or not to sew?
Post by: Elennare on September 25, 2009, 05:25:23 PM
Yes, definately go for it!

One thing to keep in mind, is that no matter HOW good you are at sewing, you WILL make mistakes.  Don't worry about it, just take out the seam ripper and keep trying until you get it right.  Or close enough that you're happy with the result.

I'd recommed going with a drawstring/elastic casing for the waist on your first try if you don't have anyone to help you.  Attaching a waistband to a gathered skirt can be a bit tricky.

Good luck, and have fun!

:D