OK, I haven't done any sewing in a few years. I fell in love at faire and now I need clothes, excuse me garb. So I thought I would start with a skirt, nice and simple right? WRONG.
OK, I am making a skirt from simplicity 9966 for my daughter. I figure to work out the kinks on hers, since she will probably grow out of it. To cut the pieces with the material folded selvage to selvage the material is not wide enough. To get the stripe in the material going up and down I can not cut it on a fold at all. So instead of 2 folded pieces, I will cut 4 pieces, accounting for seams on both sides. Now to get the stripe straight, I am going to fold the pattern in half, find the mid point, pin it to the stripe, and work out from there.
Do you see any flaws in my thinking, or know an easier way?
Thanks
Are the pattern pieces straight? If so, just cut 3 or 4 straight pieces across the width of the fabric. Seam together, leaving one seam open at the top for access. Finish as per instructions...
If they are flared, then you can do this two ways:
1: add 5/8" seam allowance to the edge you should place on the fold, place that against the selvedge, cut two back and two fronts, seam them up the selvage, and you'll get straight stripes up the middle of the front and back and chevrons at the side seams where the flare cuts across the stripes
2: add 5/8" seam allowance to the side that says Place On Fold, then fold the pattern piece in half, establishing a center line. Use this as the straight grain line and make it follow the stripes. You'll end up with a chevron up the middle of the front and back as well as at the sides with this method.
With both these methods you end up with the opening on a bias cut seam. Just be careful not to stretch it as you put a zip in (if you are using one), but also do not put the zip in until you have let the fabric hang out for a week as it will drop along the bias bits. Baste the zip carefully so that it goes in smoothly.
Rather than use a pattern, just take about five or six yards of fabric, cut off 4" from one end (the 45" length and not the 5 or 6 yard width), and pleat or gather the rest of the yardage to about one inch BIGGER than your actual bodice waist size. The cut off piece becomes a waistband. Sew that to the gathered/pleated part and leave a small bit extra to have a tiny flap over for the waistband to close. Sew the one seam (the two sides together) up to about 7". Fold over any raw edges (or you can do what I do and just roll the edges to begin with and sew them up. That way, you don't have to deal with the raw edges later on and it makes it look slightly neater). Fold the waistband over to the wrong side and have it cover the raw edge of the pleat. Sew it down. Add some hooks and eyes or a button and hem the skirt if necessary.
Thank you very much ladies.
Kate, I believe method #2 is what I was trying to say. I am going to do elastic or a drawstring for this skirt. It is for my 9yo so it needs to be adjustable for growth. I may put a zipper in the next one for myself. But I don't understand what you mean by "it will drop along the bias bits". Could you explain further?
Isabella, I will definately try that method for another skirt. It sounds easy enough. But could you explain more about how you roll the edges?
Thank you again.
Quote from: jmitchell05 on October 29, 2009, 11:34:43 AM
But I don't understand what you mean by "it will drop along the bias bits". Could you explain further?
When you cut fabric along a bias (any diagonal cut), it has a tendency to stretch, and on a long, full garment that hangs (like a skirt), that stretch will be more pronounced. Typically on a gored skirt, to minimize this, you would sew one bias-cut edge to one on-grain/straight edge, but that may not be possible to do and maintain your stripe.
Hands down, the most simple skirt on the planet for wench, (non-noble) garb is a circle skirt, and doesn't have the thick waist of a gathered or pleated rectangle skirt. Plus it has excellent swing. You probably don't want to use a striped pattern, but I have used plaid and patterned fabrics which turned out just fine.
If you are tall you will need about 7 yards of 60" width fabric. I am short, so I can use 90 inches of 45" fabric. Measure from your waist to the length of your skirt (ankle, floor, your preference) and add
7 1/2 inches. Cut 2 half circles the length plus 7 1/2. Out of each half circle cut a 7 1/2 inch circle for the waist. Sew together the 2 seams. You can use 3/4 inch double folded bias tape for the waistband. (I think it is called quilter's binding??? - ask at the fabric store, it is on the rack with rick rack and baby quilt binding. Someone help me here, I don't have any on hand to pull the exact description.) Pull a good thick ribbon through the waistband. My character is a wench, so I don't even bother to hem the bottom of the skirt.
If my description wasn't detailed enough, PM me, I'd be happy to help. My first effort at garb making was pretty nerve wracking, but I am very happy with the results. I am not by any stretch of the imagination a seamstress, so I think if I can do it, anyone can. :)
Best of luck to you, but beware ... once bit by the garb bug one is never the same again. LOL!
Technically my material is a solid color, the stripe is in the weave. But I have no doubt that in the sunlight it will be visible. And even if it isn't visible to others I will be able to see it and it will bother me.
Betty, you said you don't bother to hem, so the selvage is your hem? That works ok?
Yes the selvage would be your hem. One less thing to worry about!
My thought on this was: STAY AWAY FROM THE STRIPES! Haha...but then again, I'm kind of sewing challenged. So I guess just invest on some patience and a seam ripper if needed!
Good luck.
Quote from: jmitchell05 on October 29, 2009, 11:34:43 AM
Thank you very much ladies.
Kate, I believe method #2 is what I was trying to say. I am going to do elastic or a drawstring for this skirt. It is for my 9yo so it needs to be adjustable for growth. I may put a zipper in the next one for myself. But I don't understand what you mean by "it will drop along the bias bits". Could you explain further?
Isabella, I will definately try that method for another skirt. It sounds easy enough. But could you explain more about how you roll the edges?
Thank you again.
Sorry, just saw this. :-)
I take the length of the material (the fabric you have left after cutting the waistband off) and make the tiniest fold I can on the raw edge (typically about a centimeter). I then fold it again to hide the raw edge completely. I sew down the fold so that both edges of the entire length of fabric are rolled. No raw edges any more. :) Just make sure you don't roll one end one way, sew it down, and roll the other end the other way. I typically put pins on the wrong side of the fabric to remind me which way is "in" and which way is "out".