I am making Milord a tunic for Christmas, using Simplicity 4942 (http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/simplicity/4942/4942.jpg) (view C/the red). I'm using a nice medium-weight wool flannel in a dark brick red (the same fabric I used for my 18th c jacket (http://elizabethcbunce.wordpress.com/18th-century-middle-class-ensemble/caraco-jacket-petticoat/), just a different color).
I'm trying to decide what I want to line it with. I'm sticking to all natural fibers for this project, since there are several layers, and Milord gets hot easily. My first thought was a linen in a similar color... and then I started worrying about the color bleeding when he sweats (which has been a problem with garb before, I'm afraid to say... altho' obviously I'll be pre-washing everything.). Then I started thinking about linen in a more neutral color. Then I saw the linen-cotton blends on Fabrics-store.com, which are at a good price.
...And that's where the indecision got me. Sigh. I don't think I want to linen it in my standby cotton broadcloth (which is what my wool flannel jacket is lined in), because I definitely want this to breathe as much as possible. I *do* want to line it, right? The fabric just isn't substantial enough on its own.
Help! What do I want?
--Brick red linen?
--Neutral 100% linen?
--Neutral linen/cotton blend?
Gramercy!!
Two things to consider:
If it's to be worn on top of other things, does it need to be lined at all?
If you HAVE to line it, then you might want to consider a smooth silk lining fabric like habotai so that it doesn't cling.
What about setting the colors by using white vinegar in the wash water?
Is he going to be wearing an undertunic/shirt? It will help keep some sweat off the tunic fabric.
I would line the tunic with a light silk, and if are still worried about keeping him cool line the upper part of it in the neutral linen and the lower half of it in the silk, so if the "skirts" of it get flipped up you have the nicer fabric showing.
While I think that a silk lining would be lovely, you say he's a sweat-er. where is all that sweat going to go? if silk is used, and he soaks through that, it's going to be cold and clammy the rest of the day.
Personally, I would choose the linen. it breathes, and dries quickly if it's wet. Prewash and dry it not once, but 2-3 times to make sure the fabric won't shrink anymore, and hopefully gets the excess dye out that may bleed on underclothing. And I agree with CenturiesSewing - line the tabs around the waist in the silk, but the body of the tunic in linen. As far as color, is the whole tunic one color? is there a contrasting color? I usually line my bodices and doublets in the contrasting color.
Post photos when you're done - we'd love to see your finished product!
My wife uses linen or a linen/cotton blend.
As far as whether to line, she follows the rule that if the outer fabric is likely to stretch, it should be lined.