RenaissanceFestival.com Forums

Faire Garb => Garbing => Topic started by: songbird2353 on April 03, 2017, 01:07:37 PM

Title: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: songbird2353 on April 03, 2017, 01:07:37 PM
Hi there! I managed to rope my best friend into being involved in my local faire. She would like to be a Spanish noblewoman, to celebrate her heritage, and and I had promised to help her with her costume. However, I'm having a heck of a time finding resources and patterns! I'm thinking of a high-necked dress with hanging sleeves and a skirt that is cut to be conical with panels instead of full with gathering, all over a farthingale and chemise. But beyond that I'm stumped.

Do you have have any ideas for dress-in-progress blogs I can check out, historical references, or patterns? I would really appreciate it!
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: Merlin the Elder on April 04, 2017, 06:17:07 AM
Doña Catalina! You're on!
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: Lady Renee Buchanan on April 04, 2017, 01:26:14 PM
Merlin, great minds think alike!  As I was reading songbird's post, my first thought was Dona Catalina!  Songbird, she always looks gorgeous.
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: Gauwyn of Bracknell on April 05, 2017, 10:55:52 AM
I sent her a message (Dona)
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 05, 2017, 02:42:05 PM
Yes, Dona Catalina.

Also Google 16th century Spanish Fashions and click on Images. Plenty to choose from.
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: DonaCatalina on April 05, 2017, 05:50:10 PM
ok. Google Hispanic Costume 1482-1530. The court clothes were much less 'weighty' than what you might find in England at the time. Which is why I love Spanish for hot weather. Women could show their hat under flat caps.
This is a lesser known portrait of Isabella , the wife of Carlos I.
(http://stisabellasparish.org/portals/sip/Images/isabella%20image_thumb.jpg) The large silk sleeves (tied on)  are big open bells and there is no under-sleeve.
You can split the dress down the front to add an underskirt; but it's not neccesary. The square neck chemise has full puffy sleeves that are not overly long. Spanish Work embroidery would be found arounf the neckline and sleeve cuffs of the chemise. I find that gimp braid does a good job of mimicking the heavier embroidery on the neckline of the dress itself.
http://www.cheeptrims.com/store/item.asp?Category=20&SubCategoryID=57&GroupID=&SKU=BKM-135 (http://www.cheeptrims.com/store/item.asp?Category=20&SubCategoryID=57&GroupID=&SKU=BKM-135)
But most of all- have fun and be comfortable.
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: songbird2353 on April 06, 2017, 12:33:39 PM
Thank you so much for your help, Dona Catalina! *facepalm* I realized I should have specified my fair's time period. We're hanging out with Queen Bess in 1576, so that wonderfully comfortable-looking gown you shared with me might not be quite appropriate. By the look of portraits from that time period though it looks like Spain had either gone into a cold snap or the noble ladies gave up on being comfortable lol.
Would something like this be appropriate? Only I can't find a pattern for the hanging sleeves.

(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/64/39/63/6439638e417ceb153b9a2337857a6826.jpg)

And thank you, Gauwyn, for sending a message on my behalf! <3

 
ok. Google Hispanic Costume 1482-1530. The court clothes were much less 'weighty' than what you might find in England at the time. Which is why I love Spanish for hot weather. Women could show their hat under flat caps.
This is a lesser known portrait of Isabella , the wife of Carlos I.
(http://stisabellasparish.org/portals/sip/Images/isabella%20image_thumb.jpg) The large silk sleeves (tied on)  are big open bells and there is no under-sleeve.
You can split the dress down the front to add an underskirt; but it's not neccesary. The square neck chemise has full puffy sleeves that are not overly long. Spanish Work embroidery would be found arounf the neckline and sleeve cuffs of the chemise. I find that gimp braid does a good job of mimicking the heavier embroidery on the neckline of the dress itself.
http://www.cheeptrims.com/store/item.asp?Category=20&SubCategoryID=57&GroupID=&SKU=BKM-135 (http://www.cheeptrims.com/store/item.asp?Category=20&SubCategoryID=57&GroupID=&SKU=BKM-135)
But most of all- have fun and be comfortable.
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 06, 2017, 07:33:24 PM
The photo you posted, songbird, looks like the Margo Anderson Lady's Elizabethan  Doublet pattern. That is a great pattern that you can make in a light weight pinwale Corduroy, polished cotton, light weight cotton velveteen.
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: DonaCatalina on April 06, 2017, 07:55:47 PM
ah... yes. Unfortunately most of the portraits of Spanish Nobility from the 1570's were done around the Imperial Court in Austria. You can make this dress using a man's doublet pattern and just making the skirt out of 'A' panle.s
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/42/83/cb/4283cbe639e703c0fd3169e4528c2da1.jpg)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51Jh1rSda0L.jpg)
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 07, 2017, 01:34:19 AM
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154451010111280&set=t.568686279&type=3&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154451010111280&set=t.568686279&type=3&theater)

A Doublet gown with Spanish sleeves using the Margo Anderson pattern.

I love the Fantasy Fashions Doublet pattern for men, but have not used it for a woman's Doublet. I jut might have to try it.
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: songbird2353 on April 07, 2017, 12:43:54 PM
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154451010111280&set=t.568686279&type=3&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154451010111280&set=t.568686279&type=3&theater)

A Doublet gown with Spanish sleeves using the Margo Anderson pattern.

I love the Fantasy Fashions Doublet pattern for men, but have not used it for a woman's Doublet. I jut might have to try it.

Lady Kathleen, when I followed the link it said that I was not authorized on facebook to access the page so I started snooping on Google. I found your flickr album, and is this the dress you're talking about?  I love how you beaded the trim!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kathy0552/30031277712/in/album-72157668431110902/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kathy0552/30031277712/in/album-72157668431110902/)
or this blue one?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kathy0552/15439012456/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/kathy0552/15439012456/)
I looked up Margo Anderson's Sixteenth Century Lady's Doublet and it looks like a very useful place to start! My friend is very shapely so I think the men's pattern wouldn't be easier than drafting my own (my own figure is another matter lol).
Title: Re: Spanish Noblewoman Help?
Post by: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 07, 2017, 10:34:02 PM
Here is a photo, songbird of the Doublet gown with the Spanish Sleeves.

(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14479532_10154451010111280_4938304323345826089_n.jpg?oh=87d402e59fd2af0f22cde3c5a3023667&oe=59950ACF)

On the dress form...(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14522911_10154437468336280_351583546728040012_n.jpg?oh=af7075fcea1644f640e6a0c7fee2865c&oe=595FE4CD)

When I made this, I set the buttons part way because I wanted the top part to lay open and display the lining. I made a dickie piece to pin on my corset to make it appear like I was wearing a Kirtle underneath. One of my Costumer friends who has a booth at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival gave me that idea.

The Margo Anderson pattern comes in a size 2 to 30. I cut the 18 and it fit just nicely.