Armscye too snug--how to fix?

[gem]

Huzzah! Frankensmock is almost through the mockup stage!!  I just need to transfer my Tru-grid version to muslin and sew it up for real, with the collar and cuffs and everything... and then I'll be able to cut out the real (expensive linen) one.  So far I've been able to figure out all the necessary alterations (!!!), except I'm still having trouble with one.

The armscye is a little too snug. I'm using the sleeve pattern from Simplicity 4059, and it's working really well except that it still binds a little bit in the underarm. I've tried making the opening deeper, but it didn't help that much.  Is there more to it than just trimming back until it's comfortable?  (I made this shirt for Milord, and when I asked him if his armholes were too tight, he immediately said yes. So I think it's an issue with the pattern. I'm using the XS for mine; his was the XL).

Gramercy!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

gem,


Here is an idea to make the armsythe less snug. Add 1 1/4" to the shoulder seam of the Front and Back Yoke pieces, as well as  the same to the sleeve cap.  You will also want to adjust the neckline and collar length  by 5/8" taller in the front and back so that the collar fits properly. Be sure to do 5/8" seam allowance all over.

Sounds like M'Lord is more a XXL than an XL.

Hope this helps. I do similar adjustments to the Pirate Coat pattern I use by JP Ryan when I have guys with chests larger than 52". I figure 5/8" for each additional  size above the largest size on the pattern.

[gem]

Thanks, Lady K.

This smock is actually for me.

I've already chopped length *off* the shoulder seam, because it was way too wide in the shoulders. I'm a little reluctant to add it back in.   

The addition to the sleeve cap I can't really picture (although I was intending to add length to the sleeves).

Thx!

[Baroness de Vale]

Hi Gem! If I'm understanding what Lady K said, I don't think she meant add to the length of the shoulder seams. That would just make the shoulder seam longer but not fix the armscye. I think she meant add it to the top of the shoulder seams so that it would make the armscye bigger. I've had this same problem with the armscye in some patterns and I was never sure how to fix it. Thanks Lady K for the advice!

[gem]

Oh, as in, more S/A in the shoulder seam, and then that will give you more height in the arm hole!  Yes, that makes much more sense!

I poked around on Pattern Review and found the suggestion to sew a deeper seam in the underarm, and be sure to trim the S/A. I tried this on my mockup, and it worked!  So I took the mockup apart and used the new seamline to mark a new 5/8" S/A. I'm testing out Mockup #5 right now, and as soon as I unpin the collar and put it back on correctly, I can set in the sleeves to see how I did!

[Marietta Graziella]

OK, I thought I was following along pretty well but I think you've lost me now, Gem.  When you say "sew a deeper seam in the underarm" what does that mean?   I often have trouble with the armscye being snug and would love to be able to fix this without going thru all of your same trobs and tribulations.  Can you post pics of your progress and how you've altered to make it work?

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When making an armythe larger without adding to the shoulder, the sleeve has to be made larger in order to fit properly.

For example, if one is subtracting 5/8" of an inch from shoulder to underam on the front and back pieces, the sleeve  cap area must increase by the same amount.

Does that make sense??

[gem]

MG, let me see if I can explain this. I remember reading that suggestion several times, and it never made sense to me until now, so I totally understand that it's confusing.

1. Take your already-sewn sleeve. With wrong side out, find the center of the bottom of the armscye (the part that pinches). This should line up with the side seam of the garment. This is where you'll start sewing. 

2. Starting at the side seam, sew a NEW seam about 1/2" to the left (or away from the seam allowance), gradually tapering until you hit the new seam about halfway round.  Repeat going the other direction, since you started in the middle.

3. You'll end up with a new seam allowance that's about an inch or so, depending on how much "deeper" you've made the new seam. Once you trim that, you'll have a little more room in the armscye.

HOWEVER, since you say you *often* have this problem, I think you'll probably need to do other alterations like Lady K recommends, because the issue is probably not JUST with the armscye, but with the shoulder seams, or a broad back, or your biceps, or your bust.  There's an overly-comprehensive article from "Threads" here that talks about fitting everything else to make the armscye fit properly. I found it intimidating, b/c the folks at "Threads" think you can't make any top w/o darts  , but if this is a fitting issue that you face a lot, it's probably worth the read.

Another thing that might help you is using the historically accurate rectangular construction with sleeve gussets. They make the armhole nice and roomy without being too large.

***
I am happy to report that the muslin version of my Frankensmockup fits beautifully in the armscye. I was a little concerned that making the armhole larger would restrict movement, but it's very comfortable, so I think it was just an issue with the pattern not being cut roomy enough for the size.  I have just a couple of steps left in the mockup, and I'll be posting in the projects thread!

[DonaCatalina]

I like to take 1/2" to 1 inch out of the armpit area where it lines up with the side seam.