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Side-back lacing in men's garb?

Started by gem, March 12, 2012, 05:44:23 PM

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gem

Has anyone seen any examples of this, either period or fairwear?

In considering how to make the Simplicity 4059 doublet for my FIL reversible, I'm thinking I may want to have it lace up the side seams, for a better adjustability of fit, too. But the side seams appear to in fact be slightly side-back seams, per the line drawing of the back:



I don't recall seeing menswear that laces up the side backs, so I'm wondering if this will look odd.

???

Gramercy!!

CenturiesSewing


Historically it seems to only happen in children's clothing and from the arch. record and paintings not very often.

For faireware I think it would look ok if it is done discreetly, small machine or hand sewn eyelets.. or metal ones in a matching color, with lacing to match.

operafantomet

#2
Men's clothes of the 15th and 16th century were echoing the armour used in battle - or opposite. Many small details - the doublet skirt, the shoulder wings, various lacing points, are traces of where the clothes were meant to protect the wearer from the metal when worn under the armour, or to attach the two. They were also meant to be easy to dress and undress in oneself. For this side/back lacing would not serve any purpose, therefore it was rarely or never done. And mundane clothes echoed the warfare clothes.

For women, however, it meant size could be altered drastically, which was a big benefit in terms of frequent pregnancies. It was probably also a semi hidden symbol of decorum - women could not undress themselves just like that, and it also indicated they didn't breast feed their babies. But I'm digressing...

Whereas I haven't seen doublets with side/back lacing, many armour "doublets" had the opening in the side/back. The front was as solid as possible, with no openings, to protect the heart and the torso during battle, and the front and back was buckled together under the arms. Like this modern reconstruction:
http://www.knightsedge.com/images/Product/medium/renaissance-armor-8201.jpg

So TECHNICALLY there could be doublets constructed like that as well, to echo the armour. The lack of surviving items and pictoral evidence do speak against it, but it's not impossible. That's the only bone I can throw ya...

Dinobabe

I grabbed the doublet out of the closet and took a pic.  Yes, it is side back lacing.

Natasha McCallister
Bristol Faire 1988-2005
The Wizard's Chamber/Sir Don Palmist
59.2% FaireFolk Corrupt
midsouthrenfaire.com