Fitting help?

[PrincessSara]

So I think I finally know what I'm doing for my Tudor gown, but I have a problem with the fitting - I have to fit everything on myself.  I don't know anyone who sews nearby and nobody in my family would have time to help even if I could teach them.  I don't really want to use a dress dummy at this stage as the garment I'm fitting is supposed to be self-supporting, so I really do need to fit it on me.  Is it possible to fit things on yourself?  How would I do it?

[Aunty Lou]

Being a damnedly independent little cat, I fit everything on myself.  I'm short-waisted, deep-breasted, longer in the arm than I look, and must fit everything!
 
     First, measure measure measure.  Write. it. down.  (Measure everything.  Neck width, length.  Length from neck to top of shoulder,  Chest above boobs.  widest part of boobs.  lenght from shoulder to waist.  length from nape of neck to waist back.  length from collar hollow to waist.  from shoulder over boobs to waist.  waist.  upper arm, elbow, wrist.  length of arm from top of shoulder to wrist, with the arm held at the side.  length from waist to floor at the outside of the waist.  widest part of the hip.  length from the waist to the widest part of the hip.)  Ane any other little measurement you can think of.  All this may be helpful, someday.

     Then get out the pattern and iron it flat with a warm, dry iron.  (wrinkles take space)  Compare the measurements.  Adjust the pattern by folding it up and taping the fold in place, or slitting it with scissors, and taping it in place.

     Cut out a trial pattern in a really cheap fabric.  Baste it up, trying the semi-completed parts as you go..  Pin-fit, then mark where the pins are.

     Take apart your costume of the cheap stuff (Called a "toile"), and use this modified pattern to cut out your good, expensive fabric, and sew it up!

[isabelladangelo]

Being a damnedly independent little cat, I fit everything on myself.  I'm short-waisted, deep-breasted, longer in the arm than I look, and must fit everything!
 
     First, measure measure measure.  Write. it. down.  (Measure everything.  Neck width, length.  Length from neck to top of shoulder,  Chest above boobs.  widest part of boobs.  lenght from shoulder to waist.  length from nape of neck to waist back.  length from collar hollow to waist.  from shoulder over boobs to waist.  waist.  upper arm, elbow, wrist.  length of arm from top of shoulder to wrist, with the arm held at the side.  length from waist to floor at the outside of the waist.  widest part of the hip.  length from the waist to the widest part of the hip.)  Ane any other little measurement you can think of.  All this may be helpful, someday.

     Then get out the pattern and iron it flat with a warm, dry iron.  (wrinkles take space)  Compare the measurements.  Adjust the pattern by folding it up and taping the fold in place, or slitting it with scissors, and taping it in place.

     Cut out a trial pattern in a really cheap fabric.  Baste it up, trying the semi-completed parts as you go..  Pin-fit, then mark where the pins are.

     Take apart your costume of the cheap stuff (Called a "toile"), and use this modified pattern to cut out your good, expensive fabric, and sew it up!

This but I use the super cheap muslin that you can get for like 75 cents a yard or cheaper at Joanns.   CHECK IN A MIRROR to make sure it fits.   Sometimes it may "feel" right but doesn't look right for some reason. 

[gem]

I think Sarah knows the basics of fitting a pattern and a muslin. What she's looking for are tips on doing it *alone.* And it's next to impossible to take accurate measurements of yourself (particularly some measurements).

I would suggest: extra seam allowances, spiral lacing, and really long laces so you can do them up yourself. But certain things (like the fitting of the back neckline) are really tough to even *see* yourself, let alone fit while you're wearing it. Do you have a dress dummy that approximates your measurements? You could get the large-scale stuff close, and then finesse the rest while it's on you (inside out, so you can fiddle with the seams).

That said, the instructions I've seen for fitted, self-supporting gowns usually *require* a confederate to assist.

[PrincessSara]

I wish I could find someone to help, it would make life easier.  I might be able to get my dad to help on his days off, but I'll have to teach him everything I know about Tudor costume and fitting first.

I guess I should also include that I'm rather ample (44-37-42 and FF cup) with a fair bit of squish.  And I carry all my weight in the tummy, so I have a large discrepancy between my waist (37) and underbust (34) measurements which makes it hard to fit bodices.  Also, I'm drafting this pattern myself.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far!

[CenturiesSewing]

Sara, I fit most things on myself as well and one trick I found is to take photos of myself in the mock-up. Once I upload them to the computer it is easier for me to be objective about what I'm seeing, rather then trying to see all the sides and back in the mirror, and of course posting them for feedback is always handy. 

[gem]

I had another thought. You didn't tell us what pieces are all involved in your Tudor ensemble, but for the first mockups, I'd try to make as many pieces *front-lacing* as you can. You can always transfer the openings to the side/side-back/back once you have the fit you want. But it's just easier to fit things when they open/close in the front. Another thing I do when fitting bodices/corsets is wear a shelf bra tank top. It just makes the process a tiny bit easier, without affecting the final fit the way a real bra does.

Also, I'd start with a seam in the center back, because it can be easier to fit the back, working with that seam (in general, the more seams you have, the more opportunities for finessing the fit). You can usually draft out seams/darts/etc once you have the pieces fitting properly.

[gem]

Hi, Sara,

I just stumbled on an article on supportive (medieval) kirtles, written by a woman who fits on herself and starts with measurements instead of draping. I didn't read the whole thing, but it might be worth checking out:

http://www.medievaltailor.com/demosKirtles.html