Chemise sleeve length?

[gem]

I'm trying to decide how long I need to make the sleeves for the Promenade Gown chemise, in order to have enough to "poof" through the sleeves.  Festive Attyre recommends at least 12" beyond the length of the arm; Red Dawn says 6-8 square inches per poof.

I'll need two poofs--one at shoulder, one at elbow.

How much extra length does everybody here usually allow?

Gramercy!

[isabelladangelo]

I make my chemise sleeves out of a yard by a yard square.   This gives enough "poof" for inbetween the gaunlets on my Italian Renn.

[gem]

Hmmm.  The pattern I'm using actually has fairly narrow sleeves, like this one:



My understanding was that it's length you need for poof, not so much width... but now I'm wondering if they won't be too narrow?  I've already cut out the body and gussets, so I'm not sure how I'd accomodate much more width to the sleeves.

[DonaCatalina]

If your gaunlets are nice and snug, you can use up to three times the length of your arm for the 'poof'.
If you outer sleeves are not snug, width is better than length for poof.

[isabelladangelo]

The chemise with narrow sleeves is more for the style of dress shown here:
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady48.jpg

It's hard to see, but beneath the sheer "puffs" the lady has on the closer fitted sleeves. 

The style you are looking for is closer to this:
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extcam3.htm

The sleeves are huge.  You probably don't want to get quite that big.  Take the middle ground between these two extant ones since both are from a good 70 years (at least) after the time period you are looking at.

http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/index.html

Lots of images from around the time period you want showing slightly puffy (definitely not straight) sleeves.

[gem]

Thanks, Isabella!  Those references were really helpful.

I've already cut out all the pieces except for the sleeves; how would I go about making the sleeves wider?   I mean, I know I would just cut wider sleeves; how would I then attach them?

[Cilean]

It depends, I will for my Elizabethans I will add 6 inches so that it will allow movement under my arms and such.
I am currectly working out a Shirt/Smock maker, so that it will be easier for people to know how to make a good Smock, and how much fabric they will need and so forth!!

Cilean

[isabelladangelo]

Hey Gem,

The way I've done it in the past is just gather the shoulders of the sleeve to the armhole.  You can also just make the armholes bigger and add gores, like in this style:
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/CunningtonCamiciaLarge.JPG

That with a square neck should get you the look you need for the dress.

[gem]

Ah, thanks!  That was actually the solution I'd come up with, too (and the solution in the Margo Anderson smock pattern, as well). 

Now to actually *do* it.  Gathers have not been my very good friends in the past! LOL