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So non-period criss-cross lacing has *one* advantage, at least...

Started by gem, September 08, 2011, 10:43:53 PM

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gem

...Which is that it ties to itself!  I've just finished the lacing rings on my curved-front/hemp-corded-bodice dress, and while I *can* spiral lace it, I never know what to do with the *ends* of the laces.  At least with criss-cross lacing, you end up with two free ends. Tie 'em in a bow, and you're done.

What are my options, here? For the test fit, I used a heavy-duty cotton cord/shoelace (from a RTW bodice), which looked OK, but it makes for a pretty bulky knot.

Does anyone have a good shot of a spiral lace tied off, at either end?

Gramercy!

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

What I have done in the past, gem, was make sure the shorter  end of the cording that is on the inside used to lace from the top was longer than the bodice.

The main cord that goes through the grommets be long enough to lace downwards, then tied securely, then tucked into the bodice as discretely as possible.

Does that make sense?
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted

"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Lady Gryphon

Not to make slight of any of this, because I know Period is what we all try to achieve, but Lord Dragon is not a goods Lady's Maid.  I'm lucky if my bodice it tied to a nice fit and I can breath at all, asking him to learn lacing techniques is something I think would be too much.  Now if I ever hit the lottery, I'll hire a Lady's maid and a Valet.  Who can drive, cook and clean as well.  LOL. 

Thank you for the diagrams Lady Kathleen, I've always wondered how to correctly tie everything.

Why do I feel like I've worn something like this before?

Alexandra Johanna

I've wondered about tying off as well. There is so much talent on these forums to inspire, I am seriously contemplating something more H/A for next year. Thank you for the instructions!

operafantomet

What about sewing short strings on bottom and top of the bodice, on the inside, so you can tie the ends to these?

I tend to prefer spiral lacing because I think it's easier to adjust how tight or loose I want it, and it can be adjusted in individual places. But I agree that the ends always cause a bit of headache... What I usually do is to pin or sew down the end of the lacing string on top, lace it downwards, and then pin the end to the inside of the bodice in the bottom.

If you usually dress yourself, you can tuck down one string permanently, and lace in an extremely long one on the other side (if we're talking side/back laced with two openings). The extremely long one can also be permanently fixed to the lacing holes, but you can use the extra length to "stretch" it. And then you just tighten it when you've "crawled into" the dress. The worst part is actually getting the string through the lacing holes, I think, and you don't have to deal with that through this method.

That said, there are examples of X lacing in period paintings. As Jennifer Thompson suggests, they don't seem too strained in any way and were probably more ornamental than practical. I have, however, found one depiction which seems to be genuine X lacing in front of a bodice. In theory both lacing methods are valid. But spiral lacing was waaaaaaaay more common, judging from depictions and surviving garments.


"The Holy Family", second half of the 16th century, Prospero Fontana (Palazzo Chiericati, Vicenza).

Full image: http://www.museicivicivicenza.it/file/foto2g-9939.jpg

isabelladangelo

On the last rung of the spiral lacing, I yank the bottom of the lacing really tight and then wrap the end around the bottom rung of the lacing.  I then take the lacing end push it back up or down through that loop I just made by tucking it under the bottom rung.  It'll stay with just that.  For the "left over" lacing, I fold it in half and tie it up in a knot, tucking it down through the opening in the dress. 

Maybe I should do a video on this to explain it better?  Or you could just come to MDRF, Gem.   :P

Rowan MacD

   After looking at crisscross, spiral, ladder and locklacing....Which is recommended for back lacing corsets (the undergarment kind) if you must get into it solo?  And how tight can I lace the corset by myself?
   I will be wearing an Elizabethan strapless 'pair of bodies' style back laced corset under my (also) back lacing Tudor dress tomorrow.  My Laird has arthritis in his hands, and I'm trying to figure out a way I can spare him the pain of reefing on the under corset laces (the dress itself does not have stress so that is easy for him)
  Rowen
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

isabelladangelo

I prefer spiral lacing when I'm lacing myself up the back.  What I do is I put the stays on backwards (lacing in the front) and get the first few rows in.  Once I actually have to tighten the stays, I turn it around so the lacing is in the back and then continue to lace it.  It take a couple of times doing this on your own to really get the hang of it.  Mirrors help.  A lot.   You can easily pull on one rung of the lacing to tighten it which is why I like it a lot (rather than having to pull on two like with x-lacing) but you need to have the eyelets designed for spiral.  You might be able to get away with ladder lacing.

DonaCatalina

My dear husband does spiral lacing that isactually a double helix. Its just easier for him to understand and learn to do. I still have the benefits of spiral lacing and the ends can be tied to each other.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Rowan MacD

  I think I have the picture in my mind Dona....I can use this modified spiral on even spaced grommets?

edit: I could also split the lacing in two.  upper and lower sections might be easier...
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

CenturiesSewing



Here is how I do it, obviously it works best with lacing that has some grip rather then craft ribbon.


I tie my cord to the stays, if you have a heavier cord you can just put a knot in the cord and use that as the anchor.


I lace back through the bottom eyelet so my lacing cord comes out on the outside.


I pull a section of the cord under the bottom rung of the lacing.


Pick up the bottom loop and pull the upper loop through it.


Pull that tight to make a slip knot around the lacing! I then usually make a regular slip knot to sit on top of this one just to keep everything in place.

DonaCatalina

Quote from: Rowen MacD on September 09, 2011, 11:06:09 AM
 I think I have the picture in my mind Dona....I can use this modified spiral on even spaced grommets?

edit: I could also split the lacing in two.  upper and lower sections might be easier...

Yes, since mostly commercially bought garb has grommets spaced for ladder or x lacing, the modified spiral works with them. You still get the neat lacing and the better closure.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

gem

Thanks, everyone! It's never occurred to me to lace *downward.* I typically use the lacing itself for bust support as I go, and I'm not sure how I'd do that if I were lacing top to bottom. Hmmm.

Jenn, those pictures are really helpful. I think that will work even with the lacing rings I'm using. I do need to track down some better cord.

DC, you've been describing the "double helix" lacing for ages now, and all along I assumed it was just regular spiral lacing in terms your DH could understand... but it's actually a modification of the technique? I don't have Rowen's ability to visualize things like this, so if you could elaborate or had pictures or links, that would be marvelous!

ETA: I found this picture of "double helix" lacing, which according to this site, appears to be spiral lacing that looks like crisscross lacing?



DC, is that the technique you use?

***
And here's a good demonstration of one-handed spiral lacing, complete with knot (and photos)!

Rowan MacD

What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt