Pattern for a more fitted shirt?

[gem]

Milord has been admiring this shirt at Fair this season:



...but they only come in one size, and we weren't that thrilled with the fit. So he'd like me to make one. I'm not sure I have a pattern for this that would work. It's more rectangular than your typical Ren shirt, with a straighter/slimmer fit and far less baggy sleeves.

Ideas?

Gramercy!

[Butch]

Gem, really?  The basic rectangle shirt?  You haven't made one of these yet?

http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_shirt.htm

This is how I learned from Kass McGann.  The example you showed has a bit of a different collar, and possibly a keyhole neck placket.  You shouldn't have any problem with this!

[Butch]

Here is Kass McGann's pattern:

http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=ec&menu=ec&mn=tm&m=kess_shirforallseason

[isabelladangelo]

It looks like your basic true t-tunic, shortened, with a collar.   

http://garbindex.com/t-tunic/patterns.html

It really is two big rectangles for the body and two smaller rectangles for the sleeves.  If you really need a pattern for it, both Simplicity and Butterrick have them.  (I want to say 4486 for Butterrick?)

[Cilean]

I'm not sure I have a pattern for this that would work. It's more rectangular than your typical Ren shirt, with a straighter/slimmer fit and far less baggy sleeves. Ideas?

This is unsual for me, but Simplicty 3519, it is even in green on the cover of the jacket for the pattern.  McCalls is on sale this starting the 13th by the way!


Also Buttericks has Pattern B4486 which looks the most like your example,And it is on sale from the site!!!  Awesome:
http://butterick.mccall.com/b4486-products-5567.php?page_id=385

Cilean

[iain robb]

I have and have used Simplicity 3519. It's a good pattern, easy to use, but:

1. It needs a bit of modification and care if you're using a fabric that unravels easily, such as linen, and

2. It requires more fabric than a number of other shirt patterns.

If you're not using linen, or you serge it, and you don't mind the amount of fabric it takes, it's great.

[gem]

Thanks, all!

That last Simplicity pattern posted is exactly what Milord DOES NOT want. LOL

Butch, I know I can do rectangular construction (that's how I make my smocks and shifts), but I'm feeling lazy and don't want to draft a pattern.

I found a couple of McCall/Butterick patterns that should work, if I figure out how to modify the too-puffy sleeves.


Butterick 4486


Or McCall 4952, which I already have in my stash. Milord's mum has made this shirt (for herself), and it's definitely less full overall than the ones Milord currently has.

I think the sleeves on both of those are too full, though. I'm not immediately certain what the fix for that is, however.

[Butch]

Gem, when I make the shirts I don't even do a pattern.  I measure and cut.  Very easy to do!  I usually make the sleeves a bit long, and before I do the cuffs I have the wearer put it on and mark the sleeves at the fingertips.  Cut there and add the cuffs.  That seems to add just the right amount of "poof" to the sleeves.  As far as the neck hole goes, measure the neck, add 2" and cut the slit half that distance.  For example, 18" neck + 2 = 20".  Cut the slit 10".  Then, of course, make the collar 20" as well.  Good luck!

[Anna Iram]

Gem, have you looked at any of the Biblical patterns? Simplicity has one #4213 that might work with some slight modifications. It's a basic tunic with a v neck. You'd just need to shorten it and add a collar. McCall's 1060 is another. It looks a bit less full than the Simplicity.

[iain robb]

Truth be told, I'm not terribly fond of the shirt that Simplicity 3519 makes either.

When I use a pattern for a shirt (and I often do not), I will use either the shirt pattern that is in Simplicity 4923 (the pirate outfit) or, more often, the shirt that was part of Simplicity's discontinued truly awful doublet pattern, the number of which I cannot place right now.

The pirate shirt is more fitted.

[isabelladangelo]

Gem, I think you are overthinking this.  I've never, ever "drafted" a pattern for a tunic or a chemise.  It doesn't take any time at all to measure and cut.  Just place pins where the end points or "corners" for each rectangle/square is.   I just made my brother's t-tunic out of a yard and a half of green linen.   The sleeves are big (on purpose) but I didn't draft anything, just measured.

[Goody]

i use the above Mccalls 4952 for just about ALL big/little guys.  seems to take fullness out of the sleeves you could fold down the center of the piece making sure it fits in the scye without having to gather it. then skip the cuff.