Bodice Advice

[FortuneRose]

Hello ladies...and gents!!  It has been absolute AGES since I have been on the boards and posting.  Life happens, I suppose.  But I suddenly got the festival itch (though my festival doesn't start for about 6 months, ha!) and am looking around for inspiration for a new bodice this year.  I'm running into problems, though...

You see, most of my garb (99%...not kidding) was made pre-baby (ie 110-115 lb frame).  My little one is 4 now and shortly after having him I was diagnosed as having hypothyroidism as well as pcos..  and both have made me gain a TON of weight..  we won't even discuss how much, we'll just leave it as significantly more than my prebaby body weight! So, none of those old outfits fit (shame, because they were beautiful).   The first year, I bought a bodice at the festival but I have even outgrown that.  I have an under bust bodice that I can manage..but it isn't my favorite and not very flattering.  I went for the past few seasons saying I'm not going to make/buy anything because I WILL lose the weight.  FAIL!  That never has happened, so I determined this year I was going to get a new bodice.  I am confident I'll be repurchasing from the very merry seamstress because I have never been let down by the garb I get from her.  The problem I'm facing, though, is a particular style bodice.  My weight gain is typical of pcos and hypothyroidism where it is mainly in the stomach. The weight isn't a normal placement...as in, it really is mostly in the stomach..I almost have a pregnant look because my stomach is fuller than my bust.  Bodices tend to end at the natural waist line, which will squish all that excess weight down, creating a super inner tube look!  I don't really know what to do because of that.  I don't want to wear a dress that has more of an empire waist line because I feel that I already have to do that in my mundane clothing and love the look of the bodices that actually cut all the way down to the natural waist. I'm just not fond of the idea of having the squish spilling out of the bottom of the bodice.  I guess I'm curious if anyone has advice on a flattering cut?  Will it help if it has multiple lacing points/where would be the best lacing points?  I am considering this:

But lord knows Heather is significantly thinner than myself in that photo.
I don't know..  I feel like I've hit a wall with ideas on the most flattering garb for me to wear now.

[Anna Iram]

First off, welcome back! Second, Cute bodice! I'd think it would work fine if you lace it top to bottom as shown. That would give you two places to let it out a bit. Be sure to ask her to make modesty panels.

Can't decide if the white laces would draw attention to your tummy, or not. Cute look though. I wonder if she can do this with matching eyelets so you could use lacing in the same color as the bodice?

[operafantomet]

I think you would look lovely in Italian high Renaissance style. That is, the style depicted by Raphael, Bacchiacca, Andrea del Sarto and the likes. They depicted high waisted bodices, and full flowing skirts, and with a waist emphasized with a belt. I'm thinking dresses in this style:




If you make it side/back laced, as was custom, you can also drastically alter the size. Though this Florentine dress is of later style, it shows how mid Italian bodices were typically laced (and it had lacing like that on both sides):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/pavonazzo/blueflor18lacing.jpg


Jennifer Thompson at Festive Attyre has made a dress in this style, of a salmon/pink silk accented with black and green. There are tons of helpful patterns, advices and comments in her dress diary:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/diary/diary.html

I made a similar dress some years ago, based on the first portrait above. It can be seen here:
http://aneafiles.webs.com/unicorn.html

[isabelladangelo]

I second operafantomet.   The early Italian style is your best bet.   Weight gain and loss isn't as huge a worry with that style until you lose a LOT of weight. 

[gem]

First, a ginormous SQUEEEE!!! to see you back here, Fortune!!

Regardless of where (or whether) you make or buy, I'm going to suggest you have a look at the bodices over at Odd Bodkin. Devlyn features models of all shapes and sizes in her photos, and you can get a good idea of what styles look good on women with your figure type.

Have you tried anything on to see how squishable your new figure is? (And where the various bits squish *to?*) That will help you figure out what you'll be comfortable in--both physically and in terms of how beautiful you feel.

Another option, of course, is to go with a period corset and gown--nice wide farthingale to balance out your midsection, lots of detail in the shoulders and sleeves to bring the attention up toward your face.

[FortuneRose]

Gem, thank you!     It has been absolute ages since I have been active on here!  I've been spending some time playing catch up and reading through quite old posts (I have a lot of reading material now, that is for sure!) 

I haven't tried on any properly fitting bodices at my current size, no.  The closest to fitting me is an under bust bodice that was a nursing bodice prototype and in that one all the squish goes downward and I end up with a prominent roll in the bottom front.   In past seasons I have masked it by layering very full skirts.  Too bad the weight wouldn't go to my bosom, that would have been easier (and funner!) to work around!

I may end up going the route of Italian since that would be easiest, but I'll admit it isn't my favorite look.  I am kind of wondering how a standard faire bodice would look if I added a bum roll and a hoopskirt...  if that would give me a more intentional flair/fluff below the bodice instead of the oh-wow-stuffed-sausage look.

However, saying that...  I started browsing around at vendors who have photos of Italian dresses and this one caught my attention, but I've never heard of the vendor.  I posted about it in the list of trusted vendors, too.  Its Aetas Designs:  http://aetasdesigns.com/aetas/.  They have a dress called the Larell that may (?) fit okay.



Or at least something along those lines.  Thoughts?

Thanks again, ladies, for your help.  I appreciate it!

[operafantomet]

That style is the forerunner of the high Renaissance style discussed above. The forerunner has recently been made famous through "The Borgias" and "Assassin's Creed". It's also a lovely style. Biggest difference is that it historically included an underdress and overdress (the later style used only an underdress), and that the sleeves are narrower and often split.

Though I won't push a style on you if you don't like it, I just have to say that the high Renaissance style is never prettier than when worn by a curvy woman. Whereas I look nice enough in that green Unicorn dress, it came so much more to life when a curvier friend of mine borrowed it this Christmas. Had she not made a face and pulled her underskirt here, it would be the perfect picture of how flattering the silhouette was on her. She became the belle of the ball.

[gem]

(I was posting at the same time as Anea!)

I happen to think that that's gorgeous. And it would be SO super-easy to make, too! Although it's not totally H/A, it reminds me of Caravaggio's Judith, only, you know, more dressed-looking. 

I know what you mean about the bodice smooshing things *downward,* too. In the last two years, to my everlasting sorrow, I have inherited the little bit of lower-ab fluff that all the women in my mother's family have (sigh). Bodices look best if they hit at the natural waist on the sides/back, and have either just a *slight* downward curve in front... or an extreme one (like my Simplicity corset). Anything in between just squishes everything in the most unfortunate way possible.

Cartridge pleats that go all the way around are another good disguise for ab fluff. When I first made my Campi dress, I was worried that the pleats made me look wider at the waist/hips, but what they actually do is... look like pleats! I feel much more comfortable about how I look in this dress than in the one I made where I left the front smooth.

That said, I'm more of an hourglass so my figure issues are a little different than yours, so take what I say with a grain of salt!

[FortuneRose]

Anea, I think one of my biggest concerns is that it'll look more...  rippled and not cuvy, lol..  if that makes sense.  What is worn under something like that green dress? Do you wear a corset under it?  It doesn't seem like one would, what with the natural curve of the breast to upper torso area. (though I could be way off)  Your friend does look lovely in it, I have to admit.  I don't at all feel any styles are being forced on me.   I'm beyond thrilled to have any and all suggestions...  helps me to get a better idea.  Plus, what I may typically like isn't necessarily the best cut and style for my current figure.. and I'd rather have those with greater knowledge of period garb assist in suggesting flattering dresses.

[amy]

When I gained most of my weight I was mortified at how I looked trussed into my Elizabethan garb... So stepped back and made two jumper style gowns that are Italian"esque"...  Sadly not hystorically accurate, but the bodice is very short.  In fact just below the bustline with small lacing and a full gathered skirt.  I am very comfortable in them.   And you can still play with pretty sleeves, bare shoulders and lovely color and jewelry.. which always looks good on EVERY figure!

This one is "peasant" style but so comfy on a hot day

[Anna Iram]

You look cute, Amy.

I'm wondering if a venetian would work for you:

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2006/Kendra.htm

It could be more relaxed thana traditional bodice, though a corset is worn under it,  and the "v" would draw the eye up.

[operafantomet]

Anea, I think one of my biggest concerns is that it'll look more...  rippled and not cuvy, lol..  if that makes sense.  What is worn under something like that green dress? Do you wear a corset under it?  It doesn't seem like one would, what with the natural curve of the breast to upper torso area. (though I could be way off)  Your friend does look lovely in it, I have to admit.  I don't at all feel any styles are being forced on me.   I'm beyond thrilled to have any and all suggestions...  helps me to get a better idea.  Plus, what I may typically like isn't necessarily the best cut and style for my current figure.. and I'd rather have those with greater knowledge of period garb assist in suggesting flattering dresses.

The bodice is stiffened with hemp cording ( http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/cording/cord.html ) between two layers of silk/linen, then interlined, and then with the fancy fabric on top. I only wear a chemise and underskirt underneath. I can't stand corsets, so I always stiffen my bodices so they function without it. For pre-1600 it's usually how it was done anyway.

Amy, I love that apron in the picture you posted!

[FortuneRose]

Amy, that is exactly how I feel when I try to get into the garb that (semi) fits me...  and I think you ladies are right..  The more I'm looking at portraits as well as dress diaries, I think I'm going to go the route of SOMETHING Italian-esque and try to jazz it up.  The cut, it seems, it just going to be the most flattering and comfortable and keep me from feeling self conscious about squishing.  I like your idea, Amy, of playing it up with decorative sleeves and jewelry.  I've collected a folder, now, of inspirational photos.

Anna, I did look at Venetian and DO love the looks of them...  that is one that I can remember wanting to make about 5 years ago but just never did.  However, I still think that it would show more of the weight than I'd like. Still on my radar to make one day, though (ahem, when the weight is down some) 

Anea, when I was spending most of yesterday searching the web for inspiration your pictures came up so much!  In your own blog, on featured websites...  you are an Italian gown star!   

[Anna Iram]

You definitly don't want to spend the day feeling squished. Might be the higher waisted italian would be far more comfortable. It's certainly a beautiful style and I think it would be fun to wear. Italian gowns are so feminine.  I just wanted you to consider that you don't have to hide your new body, to look and feel beautiful Though clearly the Venetian is cinched you could go looser for now. Just smooth over your tummy. I thought perhaps the long "v" front would gice you a nice line and the corset style you were looking at. Of course this is all just an idea. As Gem said, it would be ideal if you could try on various cuts of corsets, from short to long waisted, to see their effect.

Anyway, I completly understand how you feel. Looking forward to seeing what you choose.

[FortuneRose]

I wish I had the ability to try on different styles.  It would definitely help with decision making and seeing how things will actually look.  Part of me is considering attempting a hemp corded corset.  I read through the link Anea provided about working with it and from her experience, the experience of the author of that page, and countless others...  it would seem that is a very comfortable (and shape appropriate) corset with many Italian gowns.  I don't know if my skills can do it justice..  but it would save me money and I don't even know of anyone who actually makes/sells those types of corsets.   Oddly enough, I was looking through my binder and pulled that website and printed off that info a little over a year ago when I was considering going for a more Italian-esque dress.

Has anyone else made a similar corded corset?