doublet

[Baron Frederick]

I was thinking of having a doublet or vest made out of black material with red trim. I guess I was wondering more about price than anything. I know it depends on material and trim. Was kind of thinking slashed sleeves with the red underlayment. Anyone have any ideas or pictures?

[DonaCatalina]

This is the best photo that I have of this set.
The black and white jacquard sleeves (and slops) are lined in black silk. They are paned rather than slashed to show the white silk shirt underneath.
Because I personally do not like the frayed edges from slashing. The doublet is not slashed.
Fabric for doublet ~ $43.00
Fabric for lining ~ $25.00
Buttons ~ $9.00
Trim ~ $33.00
Man hours ~ 24 @$20.00 = $480.00
Estimate is for body of doublet only and does not include extra decorations or velvet.
I don't do custom commisions anymore for many reasons. But mainly because people think they are going to get a custom made piece of clothing for very little. There are a few people here on the boards who do custom work. Look under storefronts for seamstresses.

[amy]

Custom pieces are so worth the fit and fashion of the piece you are going to buy.  You will be one of a kind and always be the one stopped for many many pictures. You will probably be able to wear the piece for years barring any significant size change or accident to the garment.   It is completely worth it unles it breaks the bank and prevents you from attending more events.   Most seamstresses will work with you until they get it right and want very much for you to be happy and spread the word as to who made the piece.   If you can afford it do it...   ConaCatalina is right that so many think the piece will be less expensive to "make it ourself"  but that is not the case.  It is a real investment. 

You may be just as happy with a standard doublet made in your size wth  your choice of colors.   Much less expensive and you will still love it.

[PollyPoPo]

Fifteen-plus years ago my Son and Daughter  were each married within a year of one another.  Daughter-in-law spent about $500 on a traditional off-the-rack, fitted, lacy, white wedding gown, not spectacular, but beautiful.  My daughter spent $2000 on a custom ren-gown, green velvet, gold sleeves, actual gemstone trim, under garments, headdress, etc.  Joke was that the dress could stand up by itself, boning and all that (it actually did stand in a corner of the room). 

My DIL wore her gown once and packed it away – probably never to be worn again (Granddaughter is going to be several inches taller we're sure).  Cost-per-wearing was $500.

Daughter wore hers at least 20 times over 5 years before losing more than 100# and it no longer fit.  Cost per wearing was less than $100.  The cost to reconstruct the ensemble today would be at least $2000, using the old fabric and trim, and no changes to the pattern other than size.  The materials today would be in the $3000+ range (seriously, gemstones?).

The cost of computers and tech-toys came down over time; quality custom work never will.

[DonaCatalina]

Custom pieces are so worth the fit and fashion of the piece you are going to buy.  You will be one of a kind and always be the one stopped for many many pictures. You will probably be able to wear the piece for years barring any significant size change or accident to the garment.   It is completely worth it unles it breaks the bank and prevents you from attending more events.   Most seamstresses will work with you until they get it right and want very much for you to be happy and spread the word as to who made the piece.   If you can afford it do it...   Doña Catalina is right that so many think the piece will be less expensive to "make it ourself"  but that is not the case.  It is a real investment. 

You may be just as happy with a standard doublet made in your size wth  your choice of colors.   Much less expensive and you will still love it.

Oh yes, custom made garments generally are better made and last longer than mail order stuff made in China. The garb I make is clothing. We have some garb that dates back to 1996.
So yes, if you can afford it, go for custom made. amortize the cost over a decade and it doesn't seem like so much.

[Merlin the Elder]

I wore a shirt from a respected faire vendor that had "problems" after just a few wearings. For what I thought was a lot of money for just a shirt, I'm highly disappointed. I spent $400 for 4 off the rack pieces that are ... plain...okay. I spent about twice that for a custom-designed, custom-fitted, 5-piece outfit that is infinitely more ornate, better made, and based on the construction quality, will likely last for many years to come.

Spend the money for well-made garb. On this board, I can positively attest to Lady Kathleen of Olmstead's work, as can many other patrons of this board. There are others that are qualified, of that I have no doubt, but I don't have garb from them, so I can't testify in their behalf. If possible, look at samples of your costumer's work, but in lieu of that, get the testimony of their customers.

[Baron Frederick]

I thank everyone for their comments one and all. Does anyone know anything about The Likely Lotus? Are their clothes any good at all??

[gem]

Baron F, you've had a lot of great replies in favor of custom work, but it's absolutely not the only way to get good Fairwear. The only custom items Milord and I have are the ones *I've* made! We've had excellent luck with many vendors' off-the-rack garb.

As for Likely Lotus, although we don't own any, I've seen it up close and we *do* have several pieces from their "sister company," Sofi's. (Still not 100% clear on how they're related.) The quality of the materials and the workmanship is very high. You won't get a custom fit, of course, but they offer many sizes and their pieces are often highly adjustable within that size range. I just went to their website, though, and am not seeing some of the men's items I'm familiar with (such as the jerkin shown here), so you may wish to inquire.

ETA: I will say that it is much more difficult to find off-the-rack garb that is historically accurate (not just fun fairwear), so if that's your goal, custom is probably your best bet.

Good luck!

[Rowan MacD]

I thank everyone for their comments one and all. Does anyone know anything about The Likely Lotus? Are their clothes any good at all??

Sorry to get to this late!
My husband and I both own a few LL pieces-Very well made and worth the money.  Maybe not so HA, but practically everything they make is washable even the velvet, since they use velveteen. Sofi's stitches are somewhere in the middle,  It depends on what you buy from her.  Basic pieces are good, I don't like her bodices.
   If you want something fitted and custom, you can't really buy that off the rack. 
   Invest the money and have it professionally made, with a seamstress that can do fittings.
    If location is an issue, some seamstresses are willing to ship you a muslin, which you will need to take to a tailor to be fitted.  Once you mail the fitted muslin back, she can make you a decent outfit using that as a pattern.

[Baron Frederick]

Thanks to all that replied. I have made my decision.Lady Kathleen will be making my doublet,hat and shirt.
You have all been too kind in your answers.