Female Armor

[mieljolie]

I just started a new bodice.  Yes, another one.  After having some frustrating problems with the victorian one I mentioned, I decided to do some other experimenting on a different one using the pattern maker at http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/index.html.  You just punch in your measurements and...voila!...it creates an image/directions for you!  There are some awesome people in this world! 

I've also been experimenting on laying out a pattern for myself which is helping take the guesswork out.  My progress can be seen at http://tabistry.blogspot.com/2008/06/new-bodice.html

Latest pic:

[gypsylakat]

that's awesome... I have a question... should each row be shorter than the previous by one tab? that's the way mine is laying itself out right now...

I really like that new pattern I think I may try using the pattern generator myself....

[mieljolie]

Thanks.  As for your question, I guess it depends on the shape you're trying to make.  But, yes, it should stagger either left or right of the row above making it shorter or longer.

[gypsylakat]

The bodice is slow going right now, just started a second job, but I think I have the weaving down pat!

SO yeah, I was looking at the tab pattern you did up in adobe based on the generator. What Measurements does that end up giving? (if you dont' mind.. ) or what measurements did you put into the generator?

[mieljolie]

Now you're gettin' personal, huh?  lol 

Honestly, I didn't write my measurements down.  Just measured and punched it in.  The final measurements on the image generated ended up this:

Center Front Line = 14"
Bust Line 15.5" x 2 = 31"
Waistline = 13.5" x 2 = 27"

I just used illustrator, which is by no means necessary, because I'm a visual person.  Besides, I wanted to try out some ideas before actually weaving them.  I suppose a pencil sketch would have sufficed. 

You can just enlarge the final image created by the generator to full scale on paper following the instructions for drawing it up.  Then, just weave the tabs until they are close to the length of the pattern.  Err on the small side if the fabric is stretchy or your weave is not tight.  But, it should be close to 1/2" per tab both vertically and horizontally.  Knowing this you can plan out the lines of the bodice with grids of tabs. Drop or add tabs to each row to get the shape close.  You don't have to arrange the tabs as I did, either.  The possibilites are endless really.  It is just the shape that is important.  Actually, I made lots of changes as I weaved that are not shown in the Illustrator version.  For one, I eliminated the red back all together.  In the future I may make a short (bolero?) jacket to go over it instead.  The red sticking out the bottom back might have been distracting.

The tab counts compared to the actual measurements are below:

Center Front Line = 13" (29 tabs + 1 tab for trim not shown) Yikes!  I'm 1" short of the generator!
Back Panel = 4.5" across (9 tabs) Now that's what I'm talkin' about.

I will try to get some updated photos of the back, sides and trim I added to the bottom.  The back is really plain.  Just vertical rows.  Hope this is helping.  Good Luck!

Wanted to add:  I was very relieved that it wasn't necessary for me to add boning to this style of bodice.  When the fabric is thick enough, it stands by itself.  Yay!  But, if you find you require it, we used a casing made from a tube of fabric that was then hand sewn to the inside fabric between tabs.  The boning is then inserted into the casing.  You could also line the bodice with fabric to prevent the tabs from snagging your chemise, but I opted not to.  Haven't had a snag, yet.  Besides, it probably breathes better without the lining.

[gypsylakat]

I am working on a pencil sketch actually, I made the boyfriend dig me out some graph paper...
Right now I've got the front panel figured out.. I'm figuring on 5 (ish, 4 if I decide to just do a plain vertical all the way across back... not sure...
I'm having problems working out the front lenght because I keep waffling between a point and no point.. Even with bodice boned at the front and side openings with steel, the point tends to want to flip on me.
So I was thinking of doing a 10" long forepart starting at 13 tabs (vertical) and going down to 10 tabs. and I think I definitely decided to do just a vertically single back with horizontal side panels...

Well, Time to get started on that forepart at least...

[mieljolie]

Once you get that front figured out, the rest should just fall into place.  I kept second guessing myself and trying it on after every few rows once the front was done.  It is pretty easy to check yourself.  Just string lacing thru the open tabs and around to the other side.  It may seem like a lot of work, but better than unweaving and reweaving the tabs.   

I used cheap shoelaces I bought in a big lot on eBay.  Not very attractive in the back, but you will see how the front is fitting.  I took measurements of the back where the lacings were to estimate how many more rows I needed.  My pattern was pretty much right on.

BTW, have you seen the shoes?! 

[gypsylakat]

I will say the tabs help out a lot mathematically becuase of the fact that their basically 1/2 inch wide and 1 inch long.

[mieljolie]

Hey, gypsylakat, someone just finished a can tab warrior woman oufit!  Her name is Rachel and she was inspired to create her top out of the tabs after seeing my blog.

http://attackcatdesign.blogspot.com/2009/04/warrion-woman.html

So, when are we going to see your creation? 

[Maeve McMayhem]

I am in love with these bodices.  I just wonder how well they'd work on a buxom lass.. 

You know I'll be digging out the bags and bags of popcans we have and popping off the tabs before they go to recycling... Hahah!

[mieljolie]

...I just wonder how well they'd work on a buxom lass.. 

I get that ? a lot.  People have to touch it or grab it and pull to see how stiff or strong it is.    Let's just say the last light blue one I made can stand on it own.  I could probably make a fairly useful dress form out of it.    It has just enough flexibility and stretchiness that as it's worn it starts forming to my shape.  If you use fabric with little or no stretch, it would be even stiffer.

[Maeve McMayhem]

 

This will most assuredly be my next project! Just to try, at the very least!