Interfacing..

[Adriana Rose]

I know we have a few on this in my opinon very annoying thing.

So I have a question what was used before interfacing?


When ever I use it the darn stuff just shreds and does not stay where I put it. I have gotten to the point that I just stopped using it.

Do I need to use like an extra layer of fabric instead or just get over it and use the darn interfacing?

[isabelladangelo]

What are you using the interfacing on?  For the inner lining of bodices, I use canvas or another stiff material, like duck cloth.  In period, they usd wool or buckrum (basically a glue stiffened fabric).  For hems, a bit of robe in the hem of the skirt or trim around the edge works lovely. 

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

The major consensus is that using Cotton Canvas Duck works best for interfacing waistbands and Bodices. I use 2 layers of the Canvas Duck so that I can sew boning channels, like I did with the Pelican portrait bodice and the waistband of the over skirt.

[Adriana Rose]

I want to try making Simplicity 8855, there is a shirt that has some box pleated ruffles on the collar and I was wondering if I could use an alternative.

A. I LOATH the stuff and
B. I don't have any and a fabric store is 3hours plus away.

I have used it before in some skirt waist bands, and it just disintegrated inside of the waist band.

Thank you Lady K I was thinking the same thing but I wanted to pick the minds of you guys first

[isabelladangelo]

I think this is the Irish lass shirt?   You don't need the interfacing.   Just skip it.  Instead, double the fabric over before you pleat it and just line the collar so that you can hide all the edges.

[gem]

I'm with Isabella. Here's my partlet with box-pleated ruffled collar and NO interfacing:

[ArielCallista]

theres something about a nice crisp box pleat that makes me happy inside. I've never used interfacing on a box pleat ruffle and mine have always turned out fine

[Adriana Rose]

The funny this is that I have lusted after that shirt Gem! Its what gave me the urge to do it lol. No the trick is doing the box pleats with out going batty.

I <3 all of you!

[gem]

Aw... thanks, Adriana!  It's actually just the freebie partlet from the Margo Anderson site, and it was dead easy to put together (even though I added the box-pleated ruffle; not part of the original instructions).

When I was making it, I remember Lady K telling me that she makes up yards and yards of box pleats, and then just cuts off what she needs for cuffs/collars/etc!  I was not that brave, and I cut a length (IIRC) three times the length of the neck, finished it, and then folded and re-folded until I got everything right.

I did use interfacing in the actual collar, but that was primarily b/c I needed a stabilizer to do the machine embroidery. But there's none in the pleats themselves--they're just two layers of white cotton broadcloth.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When I do Shirts for men and Chemises for the Noblewomen, I use a woven interfacing that is close to the weight of the Broadcloth or soft linen I am using. The Neck and Wrist bands get more support that way.

As for the ruffs that finish the shirts, I make 2 1/4" tall strips by 3 1/2 yards for neck ruffs and 62" for wrist ruffs. If I do have a bit left over after doing a stacked Box pleat, I cut off the extra and finish it.

I serge the strips all sides first. Then sew on the trim. A small rolled hem at each edge to finish the strip. After ironing to smooth out, I make marks 1/2" from the finished edge, then 1" marks until I get to the end where I make another 1/2" mark. This way, I have the proper width of the pleats. Double folded stacked Box Pleats, I use the larger quilting pins to hold the pleats in place. Pin side down, I sew 2 rows of basting stitch within 5/8" from the serged edge. Pulling the thread to get an even figure 8 look, the ruffs are ready to sew onto the neck and wrist pieces.


The thickness is a single layer. This way, the folds are even as shown in the photos.