Help with colors, Fabric, etc.

[Arsinoe Selene]

So I am making this for faire:


I already got some "linen-look" fabric on sale for the blouse, so that's taken care of. I did get some sari silk, 60% off for the bodice/vest (the pattern calls it a vest, but it has boning), even though I'm almost sure that there would be no way for it to be "allowed" to be worn for my class. It is blue with gold embroidery. Would there be any way for that be be even remotely H/A for 1585, Elizabethen? I was thinking I could be a (traveling) merchant's daughter, and he brought back just enough for me to make a bodice/vest. Then I thought, well, would that really be what a merchant's daughter would wear, or would it be more elaborate?

Other than that, what colors could I go for? I might do solid blue for the bodice (it's lined, so I can make it reversable solid blue/sari silk), prettu much matching the sari silk. What about the skirts?

[gem]

Are you a cast member?  Do you have to be H/A for any reason?

If not, please don't feel it's necessary for you to make up some elaborate story to "justify" your garb.  Wear what you love, and wear it proudly.  And smack anyone who snarks at you upside the head with your parasol.  You don't need an excuse to wear what you want at Fair.

The pattern you've chosen will make perfectly lovely Fairwear.  The fabric for the bodice sounds beautiful.  My only caution is to make a mockup first to double-check the fit.  Commercial bodice patterns typically run quite large (your first clue is the fact they call it a "vest")--and, in fact, you can see that the bodice actually gapes a little on the model, where it should fit snugly all along the neckline.

If you're truly interested in H/A merchant-class clothing for England in the 16th Century, I would check out sources like THE TUDOR TAILOR and the Elizabethan Costuming Pages.

If you don't have to be H/A, have fun making the pattern that you bought! 

[DonaCatalina]

Are you a cast member?  Do you have to be H/A for any reason?

If not, please don't feel it's necessary for you to make up some elaborate story to "justify" your garb.  Wear what you love, and wear it proudly.  And smack anyone who snarks at you upside the head with your parasol.  You don't need an excuse to wear what you want at Fair.

The pattern you've chosen will make perfectly lovely Fairwear.  The fabric for the bodice sounds beautiful.  My only caution is to make a mockup first to double-check the fit.  Commercial bodice patterns typically run quite large (your first clue is the fact they call it a "vest")--and, in fact, you can see that the bodice actually gapes a little on the model, where it should fit snugly all along the neckline.

If you're truly interested in H/A merchant-class clothing for England in the 16th Century, I would check out sources like THE TUDOR TAILOR and the Elizabethan Costuming Pages.

If you don't have to be H/A, have fun making the pattern that you bought! 

The only thing I would add at this point is to be careful of Sari Silk. Modern Sari fabric is not neccesarily silk. A lot of it is polyester and rayon. Do a burn test before you make garb out of it, or you could be stuck with something unbearably hot to wear.

[Pascal]

I like your bodice colors -- the more color, the more fun.  You'll see a lot of brown skirts, so really express yourself there.  Is that a skirt and an apron -- or a skirt and an overskirt?  You can always do an extra overskirt/apron to add even more color.

If your machine has any neat embellishment stitches, you might try running a line a decorative stitches around the top of the chemise.  You could even use multi-colored thread with a wide satin stitch.  If you go to http://www.using-sewing-machines.com/Bernina830_petalskirt_parttwo.html and scroll to the picture on the bottom, you'll see a chemise with a line of decorative stitching along the neck.  I think it helps set it off in an interesting manner.

You can see another one with the multi-colored satin stitch at http://www.using-sewing-machines.com/necchi/bink4.jpg.

[Arsinoe Selene]

No, I'm not on cast. I would like to someday, though. Someday being the key word there. Not in the near future.

I have always been interested in history (not dates and battles, but the people, and their lives, day to day), so did want to make a stab at H/A. Oh well. I'll still have fun.

Ooh, links! I like links. Thank you!

I did do a quick muslin last night (after much angst, mom came and threaded the machine right...), and the size I chose does fit. Amazing, init?

I'm pretty sure it is polyester and/or nylon. It doesn't feel like silk. The burn test is a good idea. The bolt said machine wash gentle, and was $9.99 a yard, but on sale for 60% off:

Not the best picture, but not the best camera. Still really pretty, though.

I don't think out machine has fancy stitches, I'll have to look. That could be fun, though. We actually have two machines, the plain Singer in the cabinet, and a Featherweight. I can check them both.

Grandma's machine has fancy stuff, though...

[isabelladangelo]

The sari fabric at Joanns (which is where I'm guessing you got yours?) is all very modern.  The pattern would require too many changes to the bodice to make it period for 1585.   However, the easiest way to make it slightly closer to H/A is always to take any darts or princess seams out.   If you would like to see paintings showing the Bodice/Skirt combo in period, I suggest:

http://www.freewebs.com/isabelladangelo/bodiceandskirtcombo.htm

[operafantomet]

The sari fabric at Joanns (which is where I'm guessing you got yours?) is all very modern.The pattern would require too many changes to the bodice to make it period for 1585. However, the easiest way to make it slightly closer to H/A is always to take any darts or princess seams out. If you would like to see paintings showing the Bodice/Skirt combo in period, I suggest:

http://www.freewebs.com/isabelladangelo/bodiceandskirtcombo.htm

I agree with isabelladangelo (and others) - it's too much work to transform that Simplicity pattern into a historical accurate outfit - and you don't HAVE to be historical accurate, so why no be creative instead and create a garb of your own choice?

Most historical dresses would have the skirt and bodice of the same fabric, and it would also have sleeves (of either the same or a contrasting fabric). There are of course exceptions, but that is the general rule. Faire outfits, on the other hand, tend to favour separate skirt and sleeveless "vest" bodices, with a blouse underneath, showing the shoulders.

I'm thinking it would be funky to have a plain blue/lilac skirt (the ground colour of the sari fabric) with the sari trim as a skirt guard, and with the sari fabric in the bodice. But you might not have enough fabric? Play around with the colours, you have a very good basis so far.

If you still want to make it more historical, check out Campo's "peasant" women (can be found at www.wga.hu ), like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s.jpg

Also, consider tie-on sleeves for the vest, maybe sleeves matching the skirt, with golden ribbons? Tie-on inspiration:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/milano/belleferroniere.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/allori1595.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s4.jpg

PS - excellent link there, isabelladangelo.

[Arsinoe Selene]

I have a couple other patterns for Renaissance tops with tie-on sleeves. For now, I'm just going to do it (mostly) like the pattern says. I've only actually sewn one other piece of clothing. The pattern wasn't very good, didn't fit right.

Oh, too many pretty pictures. I can't afford to make a really cool dress like that! No matter how much I want to. Well, I can start buying bits here and there, when they are on sale...

Oh, and the sari fabric, I only got a yard of it, so I only have a yard of the edging, it's only on one edge. Dang.

[PrincessSara]

Definitely remove the curved seams/darts/princess seams.  Not just because they're not HA, but because they make a bodice look and fit weird.  I made a bodice many years ago with darts and it held nothing up or in.  And it looked just terrible, wrinkley and bulgey.  The great thing about the Elizabethan silhouette is that it makes everyone look good, even if you're not really skinny.  A bodice with curved seams or darts will only look good on you if you're a size 4-6, which I emphatically am not.  So do use straight seams rather than curved. 

[Arsinoe Selene]

Definitely remove the curved seams/darts/princess seams.  Not just because they're not HA, but because they make a bodice look and fit weird.  I made a bodice many years ago with darts and it held nothing up or in.  And it looked just terrible, wrinkley and bulgey.  The great thing about the Elizabethan silhouette is that it makes everyone look good, even if you're not really skinny.  A bodice with curved seams or darts will only look good on you if you're a size 4-6, which I emphatically am not.  So do use straight seams rather than curved. 

Oh, is that why on my muslin I am getting little points just over the girls? I'm glad I got extra muslin, I can play with that now...

So... to remove the darts, do I just eliminate the triangle that is cut into the fabric? Will that make it fit alright? Clearly, I need to play...

[DonaCatalina]

Removing Darts
Hope this helps. 

[Baroness Doune]

Question: Is it possible to create a reasonably accurate Renaissance bodice using a pattern from the big 3 commercial pattern companies?

The answer is yes and here is how.

[Arsinoe Selene]

Question: Is it possible to create a reasonably accurate Renaissance bodice using a pattern from the big 3 commercial pattern companies?

The answer is yes and here is how.

And it's even using my pattern.

I love you all, really.

[Cilean]

If you really want to get something H/A for Renaissance Faire.  You can look at this party within our Elizabethan Time line, and you can see what basic people wore at the time.

http://ladysarafina.home.att.net/bermondsey2.JPG

Or you can check out this information, it has some great thoughts on the English Fitted Gown
http://www.quazen.com/Arts/Art-History/16th-Century-Fitted-Gown-for-the-SCA.128888

You can look at some patterns for the kirtle and if you check out the book it will give you complete information;
http://www.tudortailor.com/patternshop.htm


Cilean

[Angus]

If you don't mind sifting through a mountain of links, I have a site that has helped me quite often...

Called the "Costumer's Manifesto", just look around...

www.costumes.org