Finishing the Seams

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

In about a month, when my friend moves to Galena (she sews like a dream), I will begin sewing garb.  Since the only thing I've made is my bloomers, with a lot of help from another dear friend, I have a question on finishing the seams.

I was at my friend's house to make the bloomers, and she has a serger, so she showed me how to do the edges.  Which was great, and so quick, and of course, they won't ravel.  But I don't have one.  So other than buying one (can't afford to and probably would strangle myself with the thread trying to thread it), what can I do so that the seams don't fray?

Since I never sewed before, I never would have read any existing threads about this, if there were any.  So if this question has already been answered, if you could direct me to that thread (no pun intended), I'd appreciate it.  Thanks.     

[gem]

AAARRRGH!  I had a wonderful long post and it just *vanished.*  Sigh.

Click here:
http://sewing.about.com/od/beginner1/bb/seamfinishes.htm

Lots of seam finishes explained/demonstrated there.

But basically what I said was, everything from the easiest (not doing anything) to zig-zagging or pinking the seam allowances, to an overcast stitch on your machine, to French seams or bound/Hong Kong finish seams.

For skirts, I usually don't do anything.  I *might* zigzag or pink, if I'm feeling nit-picky.  Also, if the seam allowances are hidden inside the garment (like on a reversible bodice), I usually won't do anything, either.  For my partlet and the linen shirt I made Milord this year, I used the seam overcast on my machine, but mainly because I *could.*  French seams are wonderful for ravel-prone garments that get hard wear (a linen smock), and they're wonderful to do by hand, but I find them kind of a PITA by machine.

(Board is acting weird, so I'm going to stop now!)

[Welsh Wench]

I love French seaming, Renee. It may take twice as long but the results are so nice.

Pin your fabric pieces with the wrong sides together. Then run a stitch about 1/4" from the edge. Press and turn it so the right sides are now together and run your 5/8" stitch.

No frayed seams and it lies flat.

http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.html

[sealion]

Another vote for french seams! Easy to do and looks much nicer, in my opinion, than zigzag stitches.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Those French sewers knew what they were doing when French Seams technique ws developed. When I took my first sewing class in jr. high in the mid 60's, French seams were the first thing I learned. Then Flat Feld seams.

Flat- Feld seams also work nicely. As with the French seam, put the WRONG sides together. Sew the 5/8 seam allowance. With sharp scissors, trim the seam edge to 1/4" that of the back piece. Fold over  and tuck under the other seam flat, pin, then sew close to the edge. Flat-Feld seams are on Blue Jeans, some shirts, They too can be done by hand as well.

You are going to like sewing, Renee. Start with simple things. When I see you again, we can play around with some fabric and thread.

[operafantomet]

On bodices I always bind the edges. Partly because I don't have a serger and thinks zig-zag takes forever, and partly because it makes it easier to remodel the garb later on. I find it easier to pick up hand stitching that machine seams. I know I'm in minority of binding seams, though. 

[Kate XXXXXX]

Seam finish will depend on the weight and use of the garment, and the construction type.

Anything that is classes as undergarments, such as shirts, smocks, bloomers, etc. and is made of lighter weight fabrics (think shirt weight cottons and lighter) and with straight seams can be done with the flat felled seam as your first choice.  This is a very strong seam, even when wholly stitched by hand.  I have undergarments here that are 120+ years old, wholly hand stitched and machine stitched, and the felled seams are still holding up!  These things were pounded in tubs, boiled in boilers, and scrubbed with a brush and carbolic soap, and are still going strong.  This is what the felled seam is for, but it's awkward to do on anything other than the slightest of curves.  It also has the advantage of being flat, and therefore more comfortable under corsets and other layers.

A French seam can be used in the same places, but is more open to attack by wear and tear.

THAT SAID...  Himself is only just coming to the end of the life of a shirt that I straight stitched and then zigzagged the seam allowances together on after 28 YEARS OF REGULAR USE!  I swear that thing has been in the wash at least once a month since I made it!  I'm telling you, this is a very good substitute for a serged or French Seam finish.   

In skirt weight fabrics I usually serge the edges unless something is to be fully lined.  If the seams are to be seen regularly, then a Hong Kong finish is a splendid way to go, though it does take a bit longer.  If you can do the main seams before stitching the seams themselves, it makes life easier!

Otherwise, a nice 3 step zigzag is a good durable finish.  I like the three step, with three stitches to each zig or zag as it is less prone to curling up the edge of the fabric.

There are several seam types and seam finishes in the Learning Zone on my web site:

http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_types.htm

http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Seams/seam_finishing.htm

[FortuneRose]

I vote french seams....ah, a dream they are for those without a serger

[ArielCallista]

I tend to use french seams more often than others. I'm really hoping I'll be getting a serger for christmas! *crosses fingers*

[gem]

I like French seams as much as the next seamstress, but, Lady R, they're totally not necessary for *every* application!  Just wanted to make that clear!

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

I am enjoying reading everyone's input.  It really is motivating me.  I have lots of fabric.  I buy it whenever I see something I like on sale, have done this for the past 3 years for "someday."

My first project is going to be a skirt, and I know I'll be able to use the suggestions here.  Only a month more till I'll begin.  Our son is moving into his own apartment, so his room will become the guest room, and the current guest room will be the craft/sewing room.  So I'll have a place that will be dog hair free (even when they're not allowed upstairs, hair still shows up) to sew, knit, and do brass rubbings.

Thanks to everyone, and please keep your suggestions coming.   

[iain robb]

I use French seams, starting with a zig-zag stitch, then trimming and hiding that, on materials that have a tendency to unravel. But that takes a lot of time and uses a ton of thread, and I tend to agree that it is not really necessary in every case.

Almost every machine will do a zig-zag, and many will do an overlock, which are fine with a lot of fabrics in many conditions. In some cases, even a plain straight stitch will do. I'd say it depends on:

How prone is the fabric to unraveling? I just made three linen shirts out of three different fabrics. One was woven in a way that made it unravel when I even looked at it. The second held together better, but still unraveled a lot. The third was a nice tight weave.

How much stress is going to be on the stitch? I used a straight stitch on a doublet side seam, which got a lot more stress as I gained weight and started coming undone. Thankfully, I was able to lose enough weight to take the seam in and zig-zag it. Shoulder seams on a shirt also take some stress.

You can definitely spend way too much time and thread on a seam -- but you can also spend too little, and end up having an otherwise nice garment start to come apart. So I tend to err on the side of caution.