A lot of us are driving high mileage cars and using band aids and duct tape to hold them together.
If you got a tip...post it here.
Overheating.
When stuck in going no where traffic and you see that your car is running hot do this, it works.
Turn the heater on full blast. It removes heat from the engine.
And no I'm not goofing on you...it works.
I can attest to that. I had a car once that was prone to doing that. You may have sweat pouring down your face.
Always make sure to change your oil regularly, and also the air filter occassionally. Once in a while, change the fuel filter and the spark plugs too.
AND-If your car is newer, and a GM model, (I learned this the hard way) after you fill up, make sure to twist that gas cap on really tight. Or the idiot light comes on, and you have to pay to get it shut off, because hey, just in case, you may really have a problem.
Also, make sure you tires are inflated properly.
I know, this is all routine maintenance, but it helps to keep your car tuned up.
Any car '96 or newer should have a check engine light or check gas cap light that comes on if the cap isn't turned till it clicks. If you are sure thats why the light is on, disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. You may have to reset your clock and radio stations, but that beats paying a shop.
Just make sure, if you hae a stock stereo to check you owners manual. Some require an activation code to prevent radio theft (silly, since the ones that do that usually won't fit in a different vehicle). It should be listed in you owners manual. If not, next tiem you go to you mechanic, ask if they've got it on record. Most places, if you've had you car worked on there before will try to keep it on file, so they don't have to pull the radio for a serial number, to get the code from a dealer every time they cut power.
The heater thing works, cause your heater is basically a mini radiator with an electric fan. Thus, it only works if you've got enough coolant in the engine. If you do this, and you don't get a blast of real hot air, and the temperature drops, GET OFF THE ROAD! Otherwise bad things happen.
Make sure you use the right coolant. Most GMs use and orange, some newer fords do too. Newr haondas and toyotas use red. Colors do not mix (usually, ther are universal yellows and clears that mix). Adding the wrong kind can (won't always, but can) cause your coolant to congeal, and again, bad things happen.
Always make sure you use the right oil if you change it yourself. And as a note, even if you don't please learn where the dipstick is, and check it regularly. Low oil, dirty oil, or the wrong weight oil can effect engine wear, and performance. Honda's variable cam poerformance packages (VTEC) use oil pressure to engage different cam lobes.
On long down grades, down shift. The engine lag will keep you from accelerating as much, and you won't damage you brakes.
If you've got the hood open, look for the brake fluid reservoir, usually right against the cak of the engine compartment, driver's side. They'll usually be labeled on newr cars. Check the fluid level. It'll give you an idea of you brake wear. There should be a min and a max line marked. If its low, either your brakes are worn, or you've got a leak. Either way, it should be taken care of. If its not low, but not all the way up, don't add anything, or it makes it harder to guage wear.
Hey, if anyone has a car question, I'm a certified mechanic, and more than happy to talk shop, and give suggestions/ideas.
Hoowil!!!
Wish I would have know this a couple of days ago.
Was trying to remove a couple of broken bolts from a shock absorber...long story. It had to be removed to replace a broken spring. The heads of the bolts stripped right off.
The kid and I tried everything to get them out. Finally he got a small torch to heat them.
Never knew this would work.
Going to start working on a 2000 E150 van soon. 260K miles.
Engine is good, tranny is good and if the wheels don't fall off it will make a good backup car.
And don't forget to check your blinker fluid ;)
Now that summer seems to finally have arrived in MN, Get Your Tire Air Changed!!!!!!!! Winter air can cause tire failure during the summer, and vice versus.
Dayna ::)
Quote from: Baron Doune on June 24, 2008, 05:22:57 AM
Hoowil!!!
Wish I would have know this a couple of days ago.
Was trying to remove a couple of broken bolts from a shock absorber...long story. It had to be removed to replace a broken spring. The heads of the bolts stripped right off.
The kid and I tried everything to get them out. Finally he got a small torch to heat them.
Never knew this would work.
Going to start working on a 2000 E150 van soon. 260K miles.
Engine is good, tranny is good and if the wheels don't fall off it will make a good backup car.
Toches can work, just be careful there are not rubber bushings, or wiring next to what you're heating. lso, see if you can find a can of penetrating oil. PB Blaster is the best, but may be a little harder to find. Spray som on a sticking but or nut, wait a few minutes, and try again. The stuff can work wonders. Also, for something like that, a pair of vice grips, or channel lock pliers (some are designed with harsh teeth, and a steep angle on the jaws, so that they tighten their grip as you push to turn) can be a life saver. Or, if it comes to it, reak or cut the head off the bolt, then you can grab the shaft where it passes thru, might be able to get a better grip.
Be carefull with shocks and struts, especially struts. Those springs areincredibly strong. There are tools for releaseing the tension slowly, and for applying it slowly, or even just holding it, so to be able to safely handle the springs. Just figure, those things can hold up your car, and each are holding over a thousand pounds. Not to say they're not fairly simple (usually) to work with, just be careful.
Other random broken/stripped bolt tip: find out which of you local hardware stores has a good nut and bolt selection. Except for specialty bolys (headbolts and such) you can usually find replacements in bulk bins for less than a buck (some of the small ones for less than a quater). MUCH cheaper than trying to locate the bolt thru a dealer, and less hassle than pick'n'pull.
Side note: why did someone have to bring up cars? :) Now I'm at home all day, and you guys will have to listen to my incessant ramblings on the subject... :P
Soooo...I just got a new (used) vehicle a couple of weeks ago. The first thing I always do is sit down and read through the owners manual. (Yes....I'm one of those people.) So, the manual very clearly says to use 5w30 oil. The oil filler cap also very clearly says - in bright yellow letters on a black plastic cap - use only 5w30 oil.
I'm driving down the road one day and just happen to glance up at the sticker on the windshield. You know...the one that gives an approximate date and/or mileage when you should have the oil changed again. Well, right there on the sticker on the line that says "oil grade" it is noted that someone put 10w40 oil in the vehicle.
Now, why on earth would someone do this? I understand the concept of using a better viscosity oil in the winter, but why would someone totally ignore the manufacturer's recommendation and put a thicker oil in it - especially in the heat of the summer?
Hey Anne, sounds like an 'old school" mechanic changed your oil last...10-40 was King 20 years ago! Stick with the owners manual, the manufacturer wants the car to run as long as possible for the betterment of their image, they know what they are talking about!
Also most shops get one or two weights of oil in bulk, I'm talking 400 gallon drums somewhere on the premises. They'll try to 'play ignorant' and give you that, since they're paying about a dollar a quart for it, instead of the two something they pay for stuff they get by the case. Charge the same for the oil change, and hey, its 'free' money.
If you go back to the same place for your next oil change, or whereever you do go, since you know what oil you need, ask. If you tell them before the serfvice that you want 5-30, and they put something else in it, you can make them re-change you oil.
Also, the technician may have goofed and miss-marked the sticker. We mechanics make mistakes too ;).
As to sitting and reading the manual, good for you! I think everyone should do that. People study manuals for vcrs, and video games, but ignore ones for machines that cost tens of thousands of dollars. Does that make sense?
Thank you, gentlemen. I was pretty sure there was no good reason for using the wrong oil, but needed confirmation from those who've worked on vehicles a bit more recently than I have.
Now, to the task of tracking down the source of the electrical/fuse issues..... :(
Oh hell I'm good at that Lady Anne!
(well not really, I swear my door chime thing plays Happy Birthday when I leave the lights on and the key in the ignition.)
What kind of electrical issues are you having? And what do you know about wiring? ANd what kind of access do you have to tools? I mioght be able to give you a few starting points depending on whats going on.
The electrical issues are, hopefully, just minor things....I'm thinking (hoping!!!) fuses/circuit breakers.
The trip mileage tends to reset itself whenever it feels like it. Odometer works fine, but trip mileage is cranky. I usually use it to gauge my mpg.
The sliding side door won't work. I have it turned off right now because otherwise the vehicle (2000 Pontiac Montana) makes a strange beeping noise. The door opens and closes just fine manually.
Rear wiper won't work. I think the motor is shot, but it's going to stay that way because I don't feel like ripping the hatch apart to install a new one. If I'm really lucky, I'll get it to work when I'm messing around with the fuses and such - if not, oh well. I lived without a rear wiper for many years, so it's no big deal.
There's something going on with the battery/alternator/voltage regulator. Sometimes - but not every time - I notice the lights doing a little disco thing....quite rapidly flashing brighter then going back to normal. They're not getting dimmer then going back to normal, so I'm disinclined to think the alternator needs replaced yet. A mechanic checked it and said it's reading out at around 16 volts, which is, of course, a bit higher than normal.
Frequently, when I start it I get a whiff of gasoline. I don't like the mileage I'm getting from it, but I'm not sure if the two are related, or if the low mpg is just due to the sub-standard gas we're being sold at ridiculous prices.
I'm sure there a couple of other things, too, but can't remember them at the moment. I've been recovering from surgery so there hasn't been time to go out and fuss with the fuses.
I long for the "good old days" when I could pop the hood and do most of the work myself but, alas, since computers have invaded every aspect of our lives, I can no longer do much under the hood these days.
Quote from: Sir Gawain on June 24, 2008, 05:41:37 AM
And don't forget to check your blinker fluid ;)
A good freind of mine called me once and complained he was having trouble with his newly purchased used '63 Jag, it was running like crap (what a shock!). I told him my Mk10 had issues when the carburetor fluid got low, mine leaked...he thanked me and changed the subject. Well I see him a day or two later and he's all smiles...tell's me he'd heard of muffler bearings too! So I say 'did adding fluid help'? He say's 'What do you take me for'? So I showed him where to add auto-tranny fluid to a British SU carburetor. I will never forget the look on his face!
So if you have an older Brit car or bike don't forget to check the fluid level in the carb (or carbs) before a tune up!
Remember that some older GM's be havin' right AND left handed threads on the wheel studs. Make sure the genius at Joe's discount tire shack knows too or he'll muck it up fer sure.
A little ground pepper in the radiator will fix a small crack TEMPORARILY.
The trip mileage tends to reset itself whenever it feels like it. Odometer works fine, but trip mileage is cranky. I usually use it to gauge my mpg.
That sounds like a loose connection, if none of the rest of the dash functions are having problems, it might be inside the instrument cluster. If so, that can get costly. Its more of a hastle, but track your odometer reading to find milage. Probably just stating the obvious.
The sliding side door won't work. I have it turned off right now because otherwise the vehicle (2000 Pontiac Montana) makes a strange beeping noise. The door opens and closes just fine manually. I haven't dealt with power slidign doors too often, but it could be a problem with the motor, or the drive cable. If its making a beeping noise, its getting a signal form the control, at least at the receiver end. Do you live in an area that gets snow/ice/cold? Ice in a door track or sliding mechanism can cause damage if its openned when frozen together, just like power windows.
Rear wiper won't work. I think the motor is shot, but it's going to stay that way because I don't feel like ripping the hatch apart to install a new one. If I'm really lucky, I'll get it to work when I'm messing around with the fuses and such - if not, oh well. I lived without a rear wiper for many years, so it's no big deal. First, of course, check the fuses. If you have something that can check circuit continuity, even a cheap multimeter from Kragen, turn the switch on, and see it the circuit from the non power side fuse terminal and the negative battery tterminal, or any metal on the body. If not, there is either a bad connection, bad switch, of bad motor. From there, its testing each componant. Or just not worrying about it.
There's something going on with the battery/alternator/voltage regulator. Sometimes - but not every time - I notice the lights doing a little disco thing....quite rapidly flashing brighter then going back to normal. They're not getting dimmer then going back to normal, so I'm disinclined to think the alternator needs replaced yet. A mechanic checked it and said it's reading out at around 16 volts, which is, of course, a bit higher than normal. This might be one to worry about. Sounds like a voltage regulator, which most likely for that ew of a vehicle is inside the alternator. High charging voltages, usually above 15 volts, can lead to early battery failure. Keep an eye on things, and watch the battery. If it starts to swell, or look distorted, or leak, its time to get both taken care of.
Frequently, when I start it I get a whiff of gasoline. I don't like the mileage I'm getting from it, but I'm not sure if the two are related, or if the low mpg is just due to the sub-standard gas we're being sold at ridiculous prices. If you smell gas, it means there is a leak somewhere. It could be an EVAP leak, but that new of a vehicle should have a check engine light on for that, as they runautomatic vacuum tests on the EVAP system. If you're loosing fuel, from a cracked line, poor ignition, leaking pressure regulator, or whereever, it will drop you gas milage noticably, and could effect the engine performance. When you get a chance, pop the hood. Turn the key to on, but don't start. Look around the engine for any wet spots, and sniff around. If you can't find anythign in a couple minutes, cycle the key on and off, and try again. Modern fuel pump run for 3 seconds whever the key is first turned on in order to build proper running pressure. This may help finding a leak.
Well, I've probably been near completely not helpfull. Let me know how things go.
How long is a battery usually good for?
Quote from: Lady Christina de Pond on July 10, 2008, 10:53:52 AM
How long is a battery usually good for?
A number of factors come into play.
1. When was it manufactured?
2. How long did it sit on the store shelf?
3. What does the battery itself state (should be a sticker on the battery, or a sign when you bought it).
All in all, I would recommend 3 - 5 years, but that truly depends on the battery itself and how much usage it actually gets. The battery is technically only to start your car and MAYBE run some electrical when the engine is not turned over. Doing this will drain the battery faster and will shorten the life, so if you sit there and just run the radio all day, you are causing the battery life to shorten.
reason i wonder is because my truck wouldn't start this morning Mom is thinking it's the battery i bought the truck new in the last few weeks of 2001 and been driving it every since. I'm just hoping that it's the battery
What is the truck doing when you try to start it? What noise are you hearing? Might help with the troubleshooting if we know more details.
makes like a utt utt utt sound
Quote from: Lady Christina de Pond on July 10, 2008, 03:02:04 PM
makes like a utt utt utt sound
OMG, NOOOOO!!! NOT the dreaded utt utt utt sound!
*just kidding*
I just hate it when I try to explain a sound and either (1) the car won't make the sound when someone else is listening, or (2) they do happen to hear it and it is inevitably one of the most expensive repairs they've ever had to do.
Quote from: Lady Christina de Pond on July 10, 2008, 03:02:04 PM
makes like a utt utt utt sound
I'm going to venture a guess here and translate the "utt utt utt" into the ticking sound made by your starter. The FIRST thing I am going to recommend is to take it to an Auto Parts place, I know we have AutoZone here and they will run an electrical/ignition system test to determine what the problem is. You might be lucky and it may only be your battery.
When it does finally get running does it run smoothly? Do you have any other issues during operation? Does it start okay later on in the day?
Most batteries are supposed to last about 7 years. Or at least the quality ones. If the battery wasn't the original stock one, it should have a date of sale mark on it, usually little circle stickers that peal out of the lable.
Does it sound like anything is moving when you turn the key?
Do your dash lights work? Turn on the lights before trying to start the truck. If everything just kind of fades, and the noise is a little quieter or stops, it'll probably be the battery.
If you have jumper cables, try jump starting it. If it fires up, then its probably a battery issue. However, if once started you pull the cables, and it dies, then the alternator isn't putting off enough juice to run the engine, which means the car ran off the battery alone. Sometimes you can save the battery from that, but it can kill it to the point of no return as well.
What type of truck is it? Manufacturer, model, year, engine type and size, all that fun stuff?
Also see if you've got a good negative ground on the battery.
Check the black clamp at the negative battery post. If it's loose, where you can move it by hand.
Used to think the utt utt sound was starter too but a few years ago I found that dead batteries do the same thing. Almost the exact same sound as a bad starter.
Alternators are not that hard to replace. Call around for a rebuilt or use one. Most auto part stores will check the old alternator too.
You also might want to check the belts before replacing it. Too much sage in the belts can cause trouble too. (A squealing noise is a sure sign that the belt is slipping.)
Follow Hoowil advice it's good.
Good news on the fix it for cheap front here.
The kid and I were working on his gal's Oldsmobile. Usual stuff, no money to get it fixed at the shop had to be done on the cheap.
Back strut was shot (I kept calling it the shock absorber) and what I would call the back leaf spring was shattered. (kinda like a leaf spring that goes from one tire to the other in the back.)
Took us a week to get it done, in the evenings. Total cost about 120 bucks and some bloody knuckles.
All is good!
Almost forgot...overheating thing.
Picked up some degreaser the other day and sprayed it on the front of the radiator. Rinsed it off with the hose. 200,000 miles of gunk was washed away.
Overheating problem is now gone even in 90 degree traffic.
HA! Ya wanna talk overheating problems?
When the Bug had a new engine put in, the guy forgot to plug up some exhaust hole in the sheet metal.
The exhaust heat was being blown back into the engine and past the block in the back of the engine. Some firewall I guess.
Well..in the fuel filter where you can see the gas, the gas was literally boiling.
Yep..VAPOR LOCK!!
So I let the car cool down and went back and kind of 'burped' the fuel lines.
Yeah, I know a bit about cars...
It started, the hole is plugged, the sheet metal is bolted back together and hopefully the gas won't boil again.
An air-cooled car needs all the cool air it can get!
Kiddo aka WW, there are so many morons out there....my sis in law got a VW btw.
Ok going to start working on the old van. 2000 Ford E150. 5.8 liter V8.
Has 260K miles. Radio still works.
Runs fine in park but misses like crazy in drive. No check engine light.
Each plug wire has an electronic thingy on it (coil? not sure). Really expensive to replace all the wires.
Any thoughts?
I've got the tools, I've done head gaskets before but I'll be damned if I can diagnose what's wrong.
That van should have individual coils over each spark plug, so that sounds right. If you have the equipment, check you fuel pressure. An idle takes alot less fuel, so if the pressure is low it'll run like crap pretty much whenever there is any kind of load on the engine.
Does the check engine light work? It should come on for a test cylce whenever the key is first turned on. Sometimes when people say the light isn't on, it really doesn't work.
Start with the basics. Fuel, air and spark. Air is rarely an issue. Fuel pressure I already mentioned. Check your spark plugs. See if any of look worn, wet, damaged, or just a different color than the others. This can help narrow down which cylinder. Also, verify that the spark plugs are the right ones for the engine. Sometimes the difference between platinum, copper core, and double platinum can be astounding. Check you local parts supplier for what is an OE recommended plug. Manufacturer shouldn't matter too much on a ford, but plug number and type is important. There should be a short wire, or boot that goes from each coil to the plug, with a long spring inside. Check these for cracks, or little white circles. These can be weak points where the spark is going through the boot and into the head, instead of the plug.
Those would be my first suggestions. Let me know how it goes, and I'll think of what to try next.