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Trim help for Simplicity pattern

Started by Rowan MacD, May 23, 2011, 03:13:15 PM

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Rowan MacD

http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx

I just finished the short doublet with peplums and matching pants for my hubby.  I used a 1" diamond patterned home Dec fabric sort of like a jacquard (likes to fray) in burgundy and gold. The problem is, that I can't settle on a trim that would look good on it.  Hubby does not want gimp or anything shiny. and he is also resistant to the chevron pattern recommended and  shown by the pattern maker.    Instead of laces, I'm thinking button/loop for the front.
  Any ideas?
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

LadyStitch

I just finished doing this pattern for the PP.  Trim, do as you like.  You don't HAVE TO do the one stuff.  I put trim down the front of the PP's, then on the bottom, and on the shoulder pieces.  One thing I will recomend, but I have not done , is instead of using cording loops use elastic hair  bands.  I never can get my loops to look quite right using cording. Plus when you are sewing for guys many times they have a bit of a "bay window" using the elastic bands will give them some room after they eat the  wonderful faire food.  ;D
http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/60974

This person did an AMAZING review on the pattern.  There are also other people who did reviews on it.  Their reviews can give you hints and suggestions should you get confused. 
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

Rowan MacD

 Thanks! Looks like the buttons are popular, hubby wanted to use his stash of thistle crest ones.  I will most certainly use the hair tie idea...Ingenious!  My hubby is *ahem*  'horizontally enhanced', but since I used a smaller seam allowance, he has plenty of room. 
  The project blog you mentioned made me feel better about making adjustments to the tabs.  They are just about impossible to make using the pattern they provide and heavy materials.   I made my own about an inch longer and 2/3 inch wider...made placing the grommets a whole lot easier. 
   The trim is a pain because I used a patterned fabric, hard to not make even the smallest embellishment look 'busy'.
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt

Dinobabe

Natasha McCallister
Bristol Faire 1988-2005
The Wizard's Chamber/Sir Don Palmist
59.2% FaireFolk Corrupt
midsouthrenfaire.com

gem

If your husband doesn't like trim you can leave it off.  Here's a portrait by Moroni showing a similarly-cut doublet in black, with no trim at all.

Alternately, you can use bias tape for trim using any fabric you want. If he doesn't want shiny, how about black velvet? PITA for you, but it would look sharp (velveteen or corduroy cut on the bias would give a similar look with less angst).

Butch

Given the colors of burgandy and gold, I would look at a Hunter Green ribbon for trim.  Check out this site:  http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/adozendoubletdesigns.html
I got ideas for my son's doublet trim from here a while ago.

Good luck!

LadyStitch

Quote from: Rowen MacD on May 23, 2011, 04:44:59 PM
My hubby is *ahem*  'horizontally enhanced', but since I used a smaller seam allowance, he has plenty of room. 

May I suggest looking into learning how to do a "Full tummy Adjustment" . You measure from your guy's side seam across the fullest part of his tummy, to his oppiste side seam.  That is his front girth measurement.  Subtract that from what the measurement of his full girth (the measurement fo where he is fullest around his waist). 
That number is his back girth.  The difference between the front and back girth measurement is how much of a  Full Tummy adjustment you need to do.

I had to make a pirate doublet for my friend Bob so I'll tell you what I did for him.
Full Girth 60
Front Girth 34
Back Girth 26
Amount of adjustment  8 inches   (He is a big boy)

Started with a pattern that fit his chest; for him it was a 48 chest.  I drew a line from center front at the bottom to the notch at the arm hole. I then cut up to the notch.  Putting piece of paper in the opening.  Where the waist is noted, I opened up enough space equal to ½ the amount of adjustment. (For Bob it was 4 inches)Then taped the paper onto the pattern.  I then extended the CF line down, and curved the bottom edge so that it was a smooth curve to meet with the original bottom line.  Just remember anything that  attaches to the CF  (like a placket) or the bottom edge (like flanges, or skirt edge)  will also need to be altered to meet those new edges.  What this adjustment does, is allow you to have a properly fitting in the shoulders and chest doublet/vest, but still have room for the tummy.  Bob nearly cried when I gave him the doublet.  It was the first time in his life that any of his clothing ever properly fit him.  He didn't have gapossis at the arm holes, or popping buttons when he sat down.  On large mammal guys if you give them even an extra ½"-1" of ease they will appreciate it because when they sit, their tummy tends to swing forward, and can sometimes put pressure on buttons.

This is a link to a site that has some pictures of how to do it. It isn't the one I prefer but I can't find the link to that one.
http://www.rostitchery.com/2006/04/full_tummy_adju.html

I started doing this is several of my large mammal friends and customer's items, and they are much happier for it.
It is kind of strange watching your personal history become costume.

DragonWing

I have done five of these and no trim used. Well I take that back, My Lord Brent of Brenting-ton put rhinestone trim on his flanges.  And he has beaded them except one. I really don't think you need trim. It's personal choice.  ::)
Dragon rider and mage,
(aka Vince)

Rowan MacD

  Hubby is not a trim person, so it looks like he may just go plain until he finds something he likes.  I do like the idea of hunter green though....
  Ladystich-The doublet pattern I used already allowed for a bit of paunch; I don't know if this was factored in because I used the XL measurements, but the front edges actually curve outward from the chest, then tuck back slightly to the bottom where the peplums attach.   There is little,if any, gappage so I guess we got lucky.   Thanks for the guide though, it will come in handy.

   
   
What doesn't kill me-had better run.
IWG wench #3139 
19.7% FaireFolk pure-80.3% FaireFolk corrupt