Questions on using patterns from POF, Tudor Tailor, etc

[gem]

I am lucky enough to have exactly the same measurements of the women's patterns in Tudor Tailor, but what if I didn't?  How do people "grade up" (not sure if I'm using that term accurately) patterns that not only need to be enlarged to life-size scale, but changed in size, as well?

Lots of dress diarists talk about making something from Patterns of Fashion, for instance, and I *know* not all costumers are the same size!  So what is the procedure for taking a pattern drafted for one size, and altering it (sometimes a lot) to fit?

Gramercy!!

[Cilean]

Hmm well one thing I can say is try the SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism), which holds I think in most kingdoms a series of Classes to help people make accurate clothing (notice I do not say 'costume' as we attempt to make clothing of a past period that will last) many times there will be classes on Pattern Draping and Pattern Grading.  Typically 2 times a year a small college would happen and you could learn from others who show their research. 


Costume College which happens in So California every year will also have a course on this subject.  But closer to home many Community Colleges, many times there are clothing or sewing classes which will help you to learn hot to grade a pattern up. 

For me I have had problems with some of the patterns out on the market, when I take my 16/18 body measurements, and compare them to the measurements well I am off the charts, even to their size 24/26!! 


There are some help online, but if you happen to be a Visual thinker, reading something would not be the best way for you to learn...

http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/grade-a-bodice-pattern-to-a-larger-size

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4368/making-sense-of-pattern-grading

http://sewing.craftgossip.com/tutorial-pattern-grading-resizing-for-the-rest-of-us/2009/05/01/

So if you can learn this way? These are some awesome examples of how to work with patterns!

I hope this helps!
Cilean

[operafantomet]

I'm most definitely a visual thinker, and my way of using pattern seems to be.... well, bizarre.

I usually don't use patterns, as each time I try I'm never quite happy with the overall feeling, although it might fit right. The blue "peacock" dress is an example of that. I find it easier to glance at a couple of books, and then draft my pattern based on what I've seen and how it relates to my body. So it's more of a "oh, the bodice should have three panels, and curve like that at the side, plus the straps should go there".

In case of working from portraits, I can usually tell how MOST of the bodice is made up. In these cases I consult pattern books and see if I find something from the same time period or something constructed the same way, to fill in the "missing" pieces. If not, I make the pieces I know how should look, and draft the rest. If you have 3 of 4 pieces, the fourth usually has one way of being made (if it's to fit a normal body + fit the existing pieces).

But... yeah... I don't use the measurements from the pattern books. Being app. a head taller than most modern women, and also fairly broad... well, that ain't perfect for historical measures. 

[Aunty Lou]

I use brown paper and my measurements.  Laying out a pattern close to my size, I sketch/trace it, and compare my measurements, mark where darts and bust points and waists are.  I then sketch what might work and fit with the pattern's design.  Made up, this is where a toile in a cheap fabric does it's work.  Also, fitting and marking the toile on the me dummy with the proper undergarments on it...  Taking the toile apart, that becomes the pattern for the expensive fabric, and usable for patterns of other garments with similar constructions...

[Imestra]

Brown paper bag patterns rock!  It's so easy to add on, trim off, move a curve or a dart.
I changed the shape of my first bodice this way, and #2 came out exactly as I had hoped.