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Materials Help?

Started by Jademozingo, November 28, 2009, 09:59:36 PM

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Jademozingo

So I am working a little more seriously on my garb for next summer.  I will be working on a corset and need recomendations as far as a pattern and materials (such as boning) and where to get those materials.

Jade

mariab4

I would start with this web site:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/corsets/howsew.html

Then the best corset making supplies that I have found is a place in Philly that sells the steel boning including lacing bones which I really like. 

http://www.corsetmaking.com

I use a heavy cotton duck as the base fabric of my corset with a brocade (usually) outter lining.  I sew double fold bias tape to the cotton duck to hold my bones in place.  Then I stitch the brocade to the boned duck.  (Wow!  This almost sounds like something you eat at this point!)  Then I finish the edges in a matching or contrasting bias tape.  It's really pretty simple.  I've made corsets with and without the wooden busk in the front.

Margaret

For a pattern, I can highly recommend the Custom Pattern Generator found at The Elizabethan Costume Page that mariab4 mentioned.

Plug in your measurements and it generates a corset fit just for you.

Gem has also made a beautiful corset out of the Simplicity 2621 pattern.  I think this thread is the begining of her musings on it:  http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=8674.0  She can give you all the dirty little secrets about that pattern.   :)

As for fabric, cotton coutil is the fabric that is designed for corset making.  It's difficult at best to find in local stores but can be purchased online at places like Delicious Corsets ( http://www.deliciouscorsets.com/DC_fabrics.html ).  However, since it is a specialty fabric, it's pricey.

I usually use cotton duck that I can easily pick up at JoAnn's Fabrics and I have never had any issues with it.  You can also use silk or linen for your corsets as well.


Good Luck and let us see pictures!!
Mistress Margaret Baynham
The Sweete Ladye
IWG #1656 MCL
wench.org (IWG forums)
ibrsc.org (IBRSC forums)

Betty Munro

I used zip ties for my bodice.  They can be found in most hardware stores with the air ducts.  You want super heavy duty.  Although obviously not period accurate, they are inexpensive, can be cut with kitchen scissors, and can be washed!  I think they are about 4 feet long.  They should feel very firm.  But be careful, not all of the stores have the heavy duty, and the sales clerks do not understand what we are trying to do with them, so they will try to sell you whatever they have on the shelf.
I used 2 layers of (non-stretch) denim to line my bodice and double fold bias tape to bind the edges.
As far as a pattern, I used a friend's bodice, layed it out flat and traced the peices onto wrapping paper.  (A pirated pirate bodice pattern.)
It hasn't been mentioned, but make sure you use heavy duty thread.  Upholstery or denim.  Your seams are going to have a lot of pressure on them.  I also fold over the seams and ?top stitch?, (is it called top stitch?).   

Best of luck to you, and look forward to seeing the finished product!

gem

Thanks, Margaret!  You can see pictures of my finished Simplicity corset here and here.

I thought the pattern worked beautifully, and I'm giving serious consideration to making another one (even though a wiser move would be to make something to wear OVER all these corsets!).

I used one layer of heavy cotton canvas (Hobby Lobby, $7/yard) and one layer of heavy linen damask (Fabrics-store.com, $10/yard).  I boned it with the heavy-duty duck ties Betty describes (see here for what you're looking for).  I omitted the busk, which was an easy switch.  When I make my next one, I'll be using two layers of canvas (and making it strictly as underwear this time!).

I would definitely take a look at the Corset Pattern Generator linked above.  I never got farther than the planning/mockup stage with mine, but I don't believe that's a fault with the system.  ;)  But even if you do decide to use a commercial pattern like I did, the information there is invaluable.  One of the reasons I went with the Simplicity pattern was that I wanted straps on my corset, and wasn't having any luck drafting my own.   But I'd read and re-read everything on that site, so by the time I actually sat down to make mine, I knew exactly what I was doing.

The most important thing with a corset is *fit.*  The construction part is actually really simple and straightforward (although sewing all those boning channels is time-consuming), but getting a good fit can be tricky.  I was really surprised how well the Simplicity corset fit me, right out of the envelope, but of course YMMV (just see GirlChris's post in the thread Margaret linked to!).

Good luck!