Casual non-tartan kilt

[Betty Munro]

OK, I have a dear friend who's husband has agreed to wear a kilt to faire ... they have zero money, but I sew, (on a basic beginner maybe intermediate level), and would love nothing more than to see a friend happy.  I have done HOURS of research online, read R/F kilt posts, got on xmarks the scot until 2 am last night and have basically decided on a black, casual kilt.  My choices still are, box or knife pleats, (box sounds easier and less time consuming as well as possibly lends itself more towards a canvas type of fabric?) and fabric.  Canvas?  Poly rayon? 10 oz cotton polyester twill (as suggested in x-kilt)?
Also, I found reference to tapering the pleats to fit the hip to waist differential.  That seems to make sense, hopefully I can pull it off on the fabric.  Are there any other tricks / secrets that I need to know before I start?
I saved 3 different tutorials on "how to make a kilt", so I don't need detailed explaination, just a "hey watch out for this" common error type of suggestions.
I'd really like to hear from some other home kilt makers that have tackeled the task and can offer some insiders info, especially regarding the fabric and pleats.  Thanks!
Oh yes, and I will post a picture when I am done ... Their faire is late March.

[Lady L]

I used wool for Sir R's kilts. Wool is not as stiff as canvas and more comfortable than polyester twill.
We found the black/blue plaid on clearance for $2.00 yd. at Hancock's Fabrics. I think I got the red plaid wool at Mill End. He said the wool was comfortable and not too hot. You could get plain black wool.
I am not familiar with the tutorials you mention.
I used the Simplicity pattern directions and it was really easy. Just fringe 3 sides, pleat the fabric into the waistband and sew skirt hooks onto the waistband. The pleats all go in one direction. The bottom end of the kilt should be at the knee, not too short.
( I also made the shirts, doublet, fly and hat.)

[operafantomet]

The word "kilt" means "tucked", meaning that a large piece of fabric was originally tucked in place under the belt. To achieve this, they needed a fabric that draped well.

This is still valid today: to make the garb drape well while at the same time being substantial enough, go for some kind of wool or a poly jacquard weave. I fear poly rayon will be too skimpy, while canvas might be too bulky (mind you, I haven't ever made a kilt, but I have done quite a bit of draping throughout the years).

[Pascal]

Here are a couple of links with free downloadable Kilt-making patterns or instructions (the first one is really, really good):

http://www.modelautoracing.com/kilt/X-Kilt_final2.pdf

http://www.scottishdance.net/highland/MakingKilt.html

[Betty Munro]

Lady L, thank you so much for the pictures!  I like what you have done, but my friend is definitely not looking for "character" of anything near H/A, but more of the "modern" "casual" "utili-kilt style. 
Specifically about your kilts, I really like how they look more like a great kilt, and I suspect they are much easier to get into, and less formal ... my thought is that they have more of a period H/A look than the "pipe band" kilts, (although let me just say I LOVE ALL kilts).

Pascal - Thank you for the links.  I have downloaded and saved their info to my hard drive and will reference during the process.

I'm still looking for someone else who has made a non-wool kilt and can give suggestions regarding box pleats and fabric.  Thanks!

[flidais]

I havn't made a kilt with box pleats.  So I can't give you any suggestions there.  I do recommend using wool, I think canvas would be way to stiff.  What ever you do, don't use flannel.  I tried that when I first started sewing garb and it just gets all stretched out wierd.  Happy kilt making

[gem]

Well, speaking generally, knife pleats are definitely easier than box pleats.  Box pleats are fussier, and it takes a LOT more fiddling and trial and error to get box pleats that are even, and to pleat down the fabric to the right size. (My box-pleated skirt took probably four times as long to figure out than my knife-pleated one).  Milord's kilt is knife pleated (I didn't make it), all in one direction as Lady L mentioned (in contrast, my skirts have a box pleat at center front and center back where the knife pleats meet).  I adore the look of box pleats in general, but knife pleats sound more appropriate for a kilt.

Also, Milord's kilt doesn't taper at the waist at all.  You want to avoid this garment looking like a skirt, so I'd probably stick with traditional construction methods, and not get too fussy with details.

[Elennare]

Another note on the "not looking like a skirt" front...

If you go w/a comercial pattern, be aware you may need to add some fabric beyond what the pattern calls for.  My husbands first kilt, while being nicely made, was not full enough for a propper kilt, and as such looked more like a nicely made skirt than a kilt.

[Zardoz]

I have not done one myself, but many people who never tried to make a kilt (or in some cases sew at all!) before have had good luck with the casual style 'X-Kilt' pattern found on XMarkthescot.com

http://www.modelautoracing.com/kilt/X-Kilt_final2.pdf

A 10 to 14 oz. 50/50 poly/cotton canvas seems to be a favorite material.

For more 'advanced' kiltmaking I recommend Barb Tewksbury's "The Art of Kiltmaking"

http://www.celticdragonpress.com/index.html

[Betty Munro]

Thanks for all the advice!  I had a friend try to use a beautiful tartan flannel - while it looked great in a winter skirt for her, it was a terrible kilt, just didn't hang right.  I'm willing to tackle the box pleats, I've looked at tons more pictures, and I think for the casual kilts, they look better.  I'm going to go with a black 14 oz poly/cotton canvas.  If it turns out really terrible, then I'll tear out all the pleats and make shopping bags with it.  I'll post pics when done ... it might be a few weeks.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Just remember: No waistband and no hem, or it's a nice skirt, but not a kilt!   

[Merlin]

Listen long to Zardoz.... that's a man who knows kilts.

From this Scot... I would say... avoid canvas... go with 10 oz cotton polyester twill or some sort of polyvi-material.

My wife is an excellent sewer but she doesn't dare try a kilt. Maybe she knows how much I would freak if she disrespected my clan tartan with a poor kilt...LOL.

Just a suggestion.... take his measurements...KILT measurements... and check the "For Sale" section of XMarks or Brotherhood of the Kilt sites. There are LOTS of rarely worn kilts for sale there.

It may be that ye find a worn kilt is only a few dollars more than the material and time.

[Cilean]

Not trying to make anyone upset, but the plaids we see today? Have NOTHING to do with the plaid they wore during the 15th & 16th Century.  Fabric that was "tucked" into a belt yards of fabric, depending would be used to cover a Man's body, it typically was made with natural colors, and there is a reference to this from the English saying the Scots were hard to find because their clothes would blend into the surroundings.  I would also say since flannels are less expensive and you can get 50% coupons, they are more like some of the fabric widths of the time closer to the 22 inches wide thought.

So really a nice earth based tones are okay.

So here is a link about the history of the Kilt:
http://www.albanach.org/kilt.html

History of Scots Clothing:
http://jan.ucc.nau.edu/~wew/celt-clothing/

One more:
http://historicgames.com/Scottishstuff/scotsattire.html


Here how to put on or gather a Kilt:
http://fullmoon.typepad.com/photos/kilt/index.html

Cilean

[Tripletap]

Looks like I am starting the X-Kilt pattern tonight, I have about 5 yards of Khaki Twill laying around so here I go!
(First time with Pleats)

[Kate XXXXXX]

Enjoy!