Velvet and interfacing

[GirlChris]

I'm working on a pirate coat for the boyfriend. Everything was going REALLY well,but I've it a snag.

I'm using the Simplicity pirate coat pattern, (4923) which has just flaps, no pockets. He usually carries everything around in his pockets of his real-life coat, so the plan is to add pockets under the flap.

However, in order to do this and not have the pockets be a saggy mess, I should really interface the slash. Normally, I'd use iron on interfacing and attach a strip to where the slash would be. The problem is the coat is made from velveteen. If I try and press it, I'll ruin the front of the coat.

Any suggestions? Or should I just leave the flaps as fakes and be done with it?

[Lady L]

What I did was add the pockets on top of the coat, under the flaps. They are patch pockets, not slashed.

[gem]

Have you tested it?  My peacock blue Irish dress is made of velveteen, and IIRC, the entire bodice is interfaced (fusible).  If you're worried about crushing the nap, either turn up another layer of velveteen on the ironing board, or use a fluffy terrycloth towel between the iron and the velveteen.

Another option would be to do a welt pocket (yes? People who know better?). Aren't they reinforced with self-fabric? Or couldn't you use a non-fusible and stitch it in place?

[Lady L]

I made the pocket flaps from black velveteen. The coat and pocket were Italian cut velvet. Are you making welt pockets? Those would have a slash, with the pocket on the inside of the coat.

Gem is right about using a towel under the velveteen when ironing. When I used interfacing on the pocket flap, I ironed it to the cotton lining, not the velveteen, sewed that right sides together and turned it.

I am not sure what you want to slash?

[Kate XXXXXX]

Whether you make welted pockets (not period) or ones with a plain slash, you really need to reinforce the slash, to strengthen the opening and stop it sagging under the weight of the pocket and the pocket contents.

You can use a low temperature fusible cotton interfacing or light weight fusible tailoring canvas for this, which will also aide against fraying.  Another good method is to use a light weight tightly woven cotton canvas or ticking, and spray baste it in place while you work.  Then there is the old fashioned way: pad-stitch a piece of tailoring canvas to the pocket area.  This may show through on velvet, so do a test piece first!

If you use fusible interfacings, remember to cut the edges of the rectangle of interfacing with pinked edges: this softens the line between the fused and non fused areas, and makes it less obvious.

[GirlChris]

Have you tested it?  My peacock blue Irish dress is made of velveteen, and IIRC, the entire bodice is interfaced (fusible).  If you're worried about crushing the nap, either turn up another layer of velveteen on the ironing board, or use a fluffy terrycloth towel between the iron and the velveteen.

I actually have a velvaboard, which I love to bits. I've been able to safely press all my seams so far, but I only use the iron for steam and finger press everything. Fusibles require quite a lot of pressure, so I'm worried that I may still crush the pile.

Another option would be to do a welt pocket (yes? People who know better?). Aren't they reinforced with self-fabric? Or couldn't you use a non-fusible and stitch it in place?

According to the instructions I have for welt pockets, you're still supposed to interface the main fabric before you cut the slash. Grumble grumble.

I made the pocket flaps from black velveteen. The coat and pocket were Italian cut velvet. Are you making welt pockets? Those would have a slash, with the pocket on the inside of the coat.

Gem is right about using a towel under the velveteen when ironing. When I used interfacing on the pocket flap, I ironed it to the cotton lining, not the velveteen, sewed that right sides together and turned it.

I am not sure what you want to slash?

I'm doing slash pockets, so that the pocket bag is on the inside (I've added a lining, so it's not just hanging there). I don't think that a welt pocket (which, from the instructions I have, looks sort of like a bound button hole)is quite what I'm looking for, either. Sorry if that wasn't clear, I wrote this at close to midnight, local time.

Whether you make welted pockets (not period) or ones with a plain slash, you really need to reinforce the slash, to strengthen the opening and stop it sagging under the weight of the pocket and the pocket contents.

You can use a low temperature fusible cotton interfacing or light weight fusible tailoring canvas for this, which will also aide against fraying.  Another good method is to use a light weight tightly woven cotton canvas or ticking, and spray baste it in place while you work.  Then there is the old fashioned way: pad-stitch a piece of tailoring canvas to the pocket area.  This may show through on velvet, so do a test piece first!

If you use fusible interfacings, remember to cut the edges of the rectangle of interfacing with pinked edges: this softens the line between the fused and non fused areas, and makes it less obvious.

Okay. I think I'm going to do the low temperature fusible method. Luckily I have plenty of extra yardage to test this on in case something goes horribly wrong

[gem]

Oh!  I have a Velvaboard, too! Aren't they fun?  I love mine to pieces for pressing needlework (or anything with *beads*), but I'm discovering, much to my surprise, that I actually prefer the results I get with towels*, strangely enough! Also wonderful for pressing corduroy.

*Last weekend I was hemming corduroy pants, and I had to use my sleeve board (wee little ironing board) to press the new crease, and I ended up pinning a wash cloth to the wide end of the sleeve board. It's so cute!)

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

When making Pirate Coats, I use the JP Ryan pattern for 1750's styled coats that have functional pockets and the flap.http://www.jpryan.com/details/1750.html The instructions are clear enough to follow for the look one desires.

As for interfacing Velveteen on Pirate coats, I usually do not interface with a Pellon interfacing. Pellon has a tendency to bubble and come apart from gentle washing or dry cleaning.

If one is going to interface velveteen, use a non-iron on interfacing that is a cotton weave. I often use that for the upper part of the coat and sleeves if the Velveteen is light weight. Because I line all the Pirate coats I make, lining adds plenty enough body to the coat fabric.