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Preferred Patterns?

Started by Ludovi, April 13, 2010, 05:56:27 PM

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Ludovi

I am hoping to get a little bit of advice on what patterns people here have used and/or know of that are decent for historically accurate garb. I've looked at Re-constructing history and while they're pretty, they are a bit much for my wallet right now.

Does anyone else have suggestions about appropriate patterns that I might be able to use for renaissance work? Primarily, I'm needing a blouse for underneath my bodice, and better patterns for skirts and bodices.  If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be very grateful.

And, apologies if there is another topic similar to this, I tried looking and the only thing I saw was about sales, not reliable patterns. 

sealion

I highly recommend the Margo Anderson patterns. They are pricey but worth it becaue of the very detailed instruction manuals that come with them.
Cindy/Ciana Leonardi di Firenze/Captain Cin

Lady L

I agree with Sealion. Margo's patterns cost a bit more, but they include many sizes and offer variations in sleeves, skirts, etc. She also includes history and tips.
Former Shop Owner at MNRF

operafantomet

Quote from: Sami on April 13, 2010, 05:56:27 PM
I am hoping to get a little bit of advice on what patterns people here have used and/or know of that are decent for historically accurate garb. I've looked at Re-constructing history and while they're pretty, they are a bit much for my wallet right now.

Does anyone else have suggestions about appropriate patterns that I might be able to use for renaissance work? Primarily, I'm needing a blouse for underneath my bodice, and better patterns for skirts and bodices.  If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be very grateful.

You could rent some books at your local library? Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" and Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costumes for Stage and Screen" are both highly recommended. Of course you need to draft or blow up the pattern yourself, but it might cost less than buying them.

PATTERNS OF FASHION is a series of four books, here's one (with the others listed further down):
http://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Clothes-C1560-1620/dp/0896760839

PERIOD COSTUMES (...) is also a series (4 books?), check here:
http://www.amazon.com/Period-Costume-Stage-Screen-1500-1800/dp/0887346103/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1271222940&sr=1-1

Lady L

If you mean a pattern from one of the Big 3 pattern companies, that you can get on sale for $1.49 to $1.99, there are some that might work, depending on how "historically accurate" you require them to be.

These look pretty good, I bought them, but have not made them, yet.

http://www.simplicity.com/p-1576-costumes.aspx

http://www.simplicity.com/p-1547-costumes.aspx

http://www.simplicity.com/p-2009-costumes.aspx

This one might work, I haven't made it, though. Don't know if it's "historically accurate" enough for your needs.

http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4861-products-5762.php?page_id=493

This blouse and skirt could work, if you don't use the zipper on the skirt. You could use drawstrings instead of elastic on the blouse, if you need that. The bodice doesn't have much support.
http://butterick.mccall.com/b6196-products-2202.php?page_id=385

This bodice has more boning and looks more historical. You could use the chemise and skirt, maybe modify it a bit. It's under the "out of print" patterns on the site.
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m4863-products-5764.php?page_id=991

None of them are as historical as Margo's, but all of them are possibilities and cost much less.




Former Shop Owner at MNRF

Ludovi

Thanks so much! I'm not sure where I'm looking for patterns right now, I just knew that I needed something else to look at. I really like the patterns by Margo, so, I may try to find a way to get a copy.

Drafting the patterns is one thing I've never quite figured out. I haven't figured out how to pull it out into the pieces I need, though, I'm working on it (trial by error) for several patterns I drew up for myself.


Butch

For a pair of bodies (corset), I purchased the Reconstructing History pattern, and used it.  When I made the next one, I used the Corset Pattern Generator from this site:   http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ under the Elizabethan Underpinnings section.  It was very much like the RH pattern, and it had more options.  Probably not quite as historical as Kass McGann's pattern, but I liked making it, and it fits my daughter well.

Good luck!

Tixi

Jane and Ninya from The Tudor Tailor have some exquisite patterns for men/women/children, which are widely varied in style and sizes.

Pros:

The patterns are very historically accurate because the authors' research is based on extant garments.

They all appear to match up with content from The Tudor Tailor book itself. The nice thing is you don't have to scale up/down patterns out of their book.

Plus, the material the print them on is more plastic-y than tissue paper-y, so they withstand the test of time, wine, and tearing better than the averagely priced patterns. They are so nice and expensive that it's a bit hard to bring yourself to actually cut into one.

Con:

Each costs a small fortune, and it doesn't help that the Dollar is weak against their Euro... If money is an issue, look elsewhere.

http://www.tudortailor.com/patternshop.htm

gem

The three Simplicity patterns Lady L linked to are some of the most historically accurate patterns ever produced by the Big 3. At 99 cents or $1.99 a pattern, it's a really good deal for something that looks pretty accurate.

I've made the Simplicity 2621 corset twice (once with cable ties and once with hemp cord), and I'm getting ready to make it again, this time as the bodice to a kirtle.

If you're just getting going on this hobby, I'd say those Simplicity patterns are a good place to start, and you can invest in the more expensive patterns if you see the need to expand your repertoire. I'd also read as much as you can online: at this site, at the Elizabethan Costuming Pages, at Festive Attyre, etc, so you can start to familiarize yourself with costumers who work with some of the authentic period patterns and construction. Those websites also offer great FREE instructions for basic pieces like corsets, shirts, etc.

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



The patterns listed by Lady I also have. At 99 cents each, they were a steal and the BETTER of the Big 3 for a more accurate look. It's best to get them when they are so reasonable, even if they are never used.

But I also use the Margo Anderson patterns. They are pricey, but so WORTH it! I also have several RECONSTRUCTING HISTORY patterns for Tudor Clothing.

For 18th Century clothing, I have numerous patterns from JP Ryan for Men and Women. That includes undergarment patterns as well. http://www.jpryan.com/

For Victorian  and Edwardian clothing, I use Laughing Moon Mercantile http://www.lafnmoon.com/patterns.html and Truly Victorian http://www.trulyvictorian.com/

Hat patterns, Lynn McMasters www.lynnmcmasters.com

Happy shopping
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Ludovi

thank you all so much! :) I have a few other of the big three's patterns, and they aren't terribly bad. But I'm looking to actually get a good set of garb sometime soon, so all of this help is greatly appreciated!


LadyShadow

I agree with you there.  I am slowly saving the extra cents to get the GOOD patterns and make better garb.
May the stars always shine upon you and yours.

Royal Order of Landsharks Guppy # 98 :)

Lady Kathleen of Olmsted



While SIMPLICITY is doing the best of the 3 major Pattern companies in getting things right for Historical clothing that doesn't look costumey, working with the other pattern makers does make a difference in the look of the garb one is making.  That is because patterns are designed for the Corseted body rather for the modern body.
"As with Art as in Life, nothing succeeds like excess.".....Oscar Wilde

Ludovi

Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on April 16, 2010, 12:43:26 AM


While SIMPLICITY is doing the best of the 3 major Pattern companies in getting things right for Historical clothing that doesn't look costumey, working with the other pattern makers does make a difference in the look of the garb one is making.  That is because patterns are designed for the Corseted body rather for the modern body.

I agree that Simplicity is the best of the three major, they also don't always take into account the undergarments. I imagine if I invested more money into my patterns I may be able to find some that adjust for the corseted body, but right now, I may simply have to accept what I can afford. Unless I can find the books at a library. :)

Lady L

One of the links I posted is Simplicity's undergarments, including the corset, that is supposed to be worn under their Tudor gown pattern, which I also posted. I bought both, in several sizes. Good idea to get them on sale, if you can, when they are $1.99!
Former Shop Owner at MNRF