Effigy Corset

[CaraGreenleaf]

Ok. I'm an idiot, for one. But more than that...I'm ambitious. 

I'm starting my effigy corset that I will be making by hand. (I know, like I said, I'm an idiot)

Any suggestions before I go diving in head-first needles, thread and fabric afly?

[silverstah]

Other than 'make a muslin, make a muslin, make a muslin'?

Not really - they're actually fairly straightforward.  I used the pattern from the Tudor Tailor for mine, and I was very pleased with how it's turning out.  (I'm working on the binding today, actually!)

Here are some links that I found helpful when working on mine:

http://www.myladyswardrobe.com/04_sewing_chamber/16thcent_effigy_corset/effigycorset_part1.htm
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/effigy.htm
http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/elizabethancorsetptii.html
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/tudor-elizabethan.php?s=&c=8&d=115&e=&f=&g=&a=164&w=2

If you have questions, be sure to ask.

[CaraGreenleaf]

I was actually building my pattern off of the elizabethan costumer site, which is what i built my original corset off of, and other than being a dumba** and not tabbing it, which was my own fault, I'm so happy with it, it fits beautifully!

[silverstah]

If you have a good fitting pattern, then you should be golden - that's the hardest part.

[mollymishap]

Cara, here's a link to my effigy bodies' diary: http://www.myfairelady.com/?page_id=101.  I had some difficulties with the fit, which I'm still not sure have been resolved.  I hope my tribulations help you avoid a few headaches!  When I make V2.0, I might just draft it myself, but I'm thinking of making a different style first, since I had absolutely NO problems with my first corset, and it may just be that me & the effigy style don't dance too well together.  Good luck, and as always, make sure to post pics of your progress!

[Baroness Doune]

Must be a fever...

I am also working on an effigy corset.  I used The Tudor Tailor pattern and the pattern produced by the Corset Pattern Generator to size it. 

I cut the straps on the bias so that they hug the shoulders nicely.  I also cut the back with a center back seam so I could convert the corset to a back lacing corset, if needed, down the road.

It fits perfectly and is the most comfortable corset ever.

I am binding the top edge right now and expect to have it all done in a couple of hours.

This will be the second corset I am finishing this weekend.  The other one also started out as a effigy corset but I got a little over eager and cut the slash for the side tab before sewing the boning channels.  Of course, the slash ended up being in the wrong place for the boning channels.  So, I cut the tabs off the corset and made it a hybrid Elizabeth Vernon/Dorothea von Neuberg with unboned tabs instead. 

[CaraGreenleaf]

I have used the pattern generator before, and it turned out beautifully...only thing was that I made the dem thing untabbed and am still regretting that move, as I'm now scarred from the rubbing and blisters.

However, I am going to use several different sites to help draft the pattern and build it, fitting a muslin before even starting the channel stitching.

[gypsylakat]

Ok, so the tabs, what exactly is their purpose? I found myself wondering that question as I was going to sleep last night (don't ask) lol and when you wear them how do they move, do they move together or apart or up or down or what? (as you can tell I've never worn one... lol)

[Minch]

In my experience, the tabs on a corset better help to evenly distribute the pressure at the waist and over the hips.  Not only does this make it more comfortable, it also will help to more appropriately distribute the weight of the garment (and let's face it...  if you are wearing a corset for underpinnings, odds are there is a lot of fabric on your body above all that).  Untabbed corsets, for many, tend to pinch or dig into the hips, occasionally even causing chafing or something equally unpleasant.  I have never had a properly constructed tabbed corset that did this, and find them comfortable.  Personally, I prefer having bones that extend down into the tabs for this reason.  Ease of use and SO comfortable. 

I also used Drea Leed's Custom Corset Pattern generator as a jumping off point to make a corset, with tremendous success; much more than I have had with any commercial pattern I have ever tried.  If you are ever interested in trying one out, this was a great place to start, with VERY friendly directions on construction.

(edited to fix my own inability to properly insert a link.)

[Cilean]

Lynn McMaster's Site just came up with a cool thought, she will create a custom PoB pattern just for you!
Check this out?

http://lynnmcmasters.com/index.html

Now I will have to play with this as well! I swear! I shall have like 20 PoB's Giggle!

Cilean

[Baroness Doune]

The Effigy corset pics are uploaded!



More pictures of the Effigy corset and the Vernon corset can be found here.

[Marietta Graziella]

So... now that you have them both finished, which one do you like better?  Which seems to be more comfortable?  More supportive? 

[Baroness Doune]

The fit for both is identical above the waist, so both are equally comfortable and equally supportive.  The difference is below the waist and my preference is still for the boned tabs because I know they will distribute the weight of those heavy skirts better over my hips.  So, other than for the pictures, I will probably never wear the Vernon corset again.  Lady Margaret got a new corset out of the deal, though, and she wears it well. 

As you can probably tell from the write up on the webpage, I was much more precise in my use of the pattern produced by the Custom Corset Pattern Generator than I have ever been before.  And I owe you and all the ladies who have a attended the bodice workshops hugs and my heartfelt thanks for the way these corsets fit.  Every toile that was done in the bodice workshops taught ME something about fit.  I have been refining the technique over the last couple of years and I think I have nailed it.

The previous corsets I have made are just crap in comparison to the fit of these corsets.  I laid an old corset (The one Lady Margaret has been wearing - it was most like the new Effigy corset since it laced only in the front and it still had straps) over the new Effigy corset last night I can see why I always had slippage.  The bust is way too big on the old corset.  That curved side back seam sewn to a straight seam on Margo's corset pattern does not suit me at all.

The new corsets are supremely comfortable.  Part of this is due to the fit but part of it is due to that linen canvas I used.  There is something about that fabric.  The way it works with the boning and molds the body, with just the right amount of give vs. stiffness.  And because it is linen, it will be so much more comfortable in the heat of summer than the cotton duck cloth I have used previously for corsets.

The upper edge of the back of the Vernon corset lays better.  There is just a bit of gapping at the back of the Effigy corset.  So, I may have to probably will redo the binding on the upper edge of the Effigy corset between the junction of the straps, stretching the binding a bit as I sew it into place.

Other than that, the only thing I would do differently next time is to move the point of the junction of the straps to the body of the corset further out by an inch on each side.  That is a change that needs to made to the original pattern, though, before cutting the fabric.

The next version with be boned with reed.  I have purchased some silk satin and some half bleached linen canvas from Burnley and Trowbridge.  Both fabrics are a creamy yellow color and will look very nice with some chamois leather binding.

[Marietta Graziella]

Thanks for the details!  I always check your dress diary before starting a new project.  I find the way your organize the information to be extremely user friendly and easy to find just which detail I'm looking for.

I have made a couple bodices from the workshop but I have yet to make a corset.  It's something I'd like to do and will be consulting your DD many times during the process, I'm sure.   

Thank you for YOUR hard work, which will make my job easier!

[Baroness Doune]

More tweaking of the Effigy bodies.

The pictures behind the thumbnails are huge, so here is a link to the page.  Here is a direct link to the revisions.  Scroll down a bit for the picture thumbnails.