Short vs. Long sleeved chemise?

[SandrineDeLaTombe]

I am toying with the idea of getting a shorter sleeved chemise. I am slightly curious about the HA of both, but I'm not terribly concerned with that.  I've always worn long-sleeved chemises, but that can get very hot in Texas and they seem to always get in the way.  My biggest stop with the shorter sleeves is that I have a very large tattoo on one forearm. My "character" is more piratical/saucy wench, so I don't have a real problem showing it, but I also don't want it to be the only focus while I'm in garb. 

I'm sure I'm overthinking this terribly, but I wanted to get input from all the smart ladies who know much more than I do.

[GirlChris]

Waaaaaaaay overthinking it. It's not historical that I've ever seen, but who cares? Wenchy characters can wear what they like, as long as they don't have some variety of costume master/mistress telling them what to wear.If you're more comfortable in a short sleeved chemise, wear a short sleeved chemise. They can be very cute and fun. Hooray!

[Rowan MacD]

  There are a few sites that sell the short sleeved blouses for pirate wear, as long as you don't mind the little puffy sleeves.

[Delireus]

I've only worn short sleeve blouses, I'm from Texas too and a long sleeve option never even crossed my mind due to the heat. The only thing is I have a real problem with those little cap sleeves that vendors put on their short sleeve blouses. I guess I'm far too picky, but it took me weeks to find something I liked that wasn't too puffy and didn't sit right under my shoulder.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/52744553/white-cotton-or-any-color-ruffle I really like the V cut in this, and the sleeves are just right for me. Maybe the sleeves are just long enough to cover your tattoo if you're still worried about it being too noticeable. Anyways, I think you'll be just fine in a shorter sleeved option, and it'll save you torture in those texas summers and winters sometimes too .

[SandrineDeLaTombe]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.  I really like that chemise, Delireus, thanks for sharing!

[gem]

There are many paintings that show women with their chemise sleeves rolled up, usually for working (and often Italian):

http://www.londonfoodfilmfiesta.co.uk/Artmai~1/images~2/Campi-2kitchen.jpg

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL417/1033223/17480040/301688493.jpg

...And I know I've seen at least a couple of portraits of women with actual shorter sleeves, although I'm not 100% certain whether they're naturalistic (depicting real fashions) or completely fanciful/allegorical (I know I've seen others, but these are the ones I found straightaway):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/pbordone.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/fasolo1570sdiv.jpg

***
As for actual real-life, wear-to-fair chemises?  I've found that it's the chemise material, more than the sleeve length, that determines how hot/cool it is. Remember also that direct sun on bare skin is VERY hot! (Which is why you never see Bedouins running around the desert uncovered.) Lightweight linen and cotton gauze will be cooler than a cotton broadcloth or a heavier linen or silk, long sleeve or short sleeve.  My favorite wear-when-it's-hot chemise is my Double Puff Juliet gown from Ophelia's.  This picture was taken at the Des Moines Renfest, when it was about 100 degrees (and 90% humidity; typical IA in late summer), where there is absolutely NO shade/cover anywhere, and I can tell you I was VERY glad to be protected from that sun!

[Rowan MacD]

 My favorite wear-when-it's-hot chemise is my Double Puff Juliet gown from Ophelia's.  This picture was taken at the Des Moines Renfest, when it was about 100 degrees (and 90% humidity; typical IA in late summer), where there is absolutely NO shade/cover anywhere, and I can tell you I was VERY glad to be protected from that sun!

I love that chemise,  It will be mine!  I'm hoping the weather at DMRF  cools off considerably from what we have right now. Sleepy Hollow has already been flooded a couple of times this year (nothing special there) I just don't want the heat + mosquitoes.
 

[Rani Zemirah]

I have a long sleeve and a half sleeve chemise, both bought from vendors at Faire, and I like them both, although the elastic at the elbow on the shorter one is a bit tight and needs to be fixed.  They're both very pretty, and I've never had anyone say anything about the authenticity of either, although even the necklines are elastic, as well.  I think unless you're on cast somewhere or in a historical organization then it doesn't really matter to most people, or at least the people I've encountered at the Faires I've attended, including both TRF and Scarby.  

[Annastina]

I have a long sleeved gauzy chemise with a fairly loose cuff.  If it is very hot, I can push the cuff above my elbow and the rest of the sleeve sort of billows down, making it a comfy 3/4 sleeve.  For me, it's the best of both worlds, because Gem's right - it's all about the material.

[Celtic Lady]

  I love that chemise,  It will be mine!  I'm hoping the weather at DMRF  cools off considerably from what we have right now. Sleepy Hollow has already been flooded a couple of times this year (nothing special there) I just don't want the heat + mosquitoes.  

I, too, am hoping for cooler and less humid temps for Des Moines RF. Truly this has been a harsh summer for us here. Crossing fingers, heart, eyes, toes, arms, and legs that it does and that the mosquito population did not explode (and won't).

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

Even when it is warm, I wear the long sleeved chemises. Then less sun on me, the better.

[Lady Kett]

We just made this Chemise using Butterick 3906, lengthening it to make it longer than the original pattern. The pattern has an option for long or short sleeves. Considering it was the 3rd thing me and the spousal Sidekick have ever made, we found it very easy to make. The Prodigal Daughter feels she would rather trade the application of sunscreen for less material on her arms compared to full-length sleeves. This pattern *should* be easy enough to make a 2/3 or 3/4 length sleeve if you were that overly concerned with your tattoo showing.

Pattern pics:


our result here:


I have always gone with full length sleeves which I can push up to be 3/4 sleeves as needed and never felt I was melting because of my chemise sleeves.

Roundabout way of saying, wear what you like and prefer!

[Rani Zemirah]

Even when it is warm, I wear the long sleeved chemises. Then less sun on me, the better.

I'm with you, Lady Kathleen!  I'd much rather it be overcast if I'm outside, and I wish I was even able to wear a wide brim hat (because they actually suit me rather well, and shade nicely), but I get too overheated with my head covered.  I don't like to burn, though, so sunscreen, shade and light, breathable fabric are my good friends at Faire!  

Lady Kett, you did a wonderful job on your new chemise!  It looks lovely!!!  You're becoming quite an accomplished seamstress rather quickly!  Congratulations... 

[SandrineDeLaTombe]

That is very beautiful, Lady Kett.  (And that picture of you is adorable .  I am leaning toward this chemise, with a drawstring neck.  Sleeves not too short, and I've got long arms, so I think this will be perfect.



http://www.etsy.com/listing/41693276/white-or-natural-32-inch-long-short

[bellevivre]

when I do italian, or anything non-faerie, in the heat, I wear a long sleeve linen chemise. Linen creases by hand beautifully- so, I roll up the cuffs and they stay no problem- given that linen breathes like nobody's business, I stay plenty cool all day!

but, honestly? wear whatever makes you happy- I started out trying to be period- and I still love my linen italian ren dresses Ive made. But the fact is, it's FAIRE, it's TEXAS, and it's HOT!

[Lady Rebecca]

The chemise I've been wearing to faire is a cotton ivory long sleeve, though there is elastic at the wrists, so I frequently roll them up if it's hot. On the other hand, though, at the beginning of summer, I made myself a cotton bright red chemise to wear with my pirate garb, with embroidered sleeves that hit just above the elbow. And I've found that it's comfy and "normal" enough to wear even with mundanes! I wouldn't wear it to fair with my normal garb, since it's red, but I could totally see me making a white one.

So basically, wear whatever makes you comfortable, and don't fret about garb nazis.

[DonaCatalina]

Even when it is warm, I wear the long sleeved chemises. Then less sun on me, the better.

What she said 
Mine are very thin eyelet cotton.

[Lady Kett]

(And that picture of you is adorable . 

Just for the record, that's my daughter, not me. But thank you, she cleans up well LOL.

[SandrineDeLaTombe]

(And that picture of you is adorable . 

Just for the record, that's my daughter, not me. But thank you, she cleans up well LOL.

LOL, wow, well then she is your doppelganger, for sure!

[Lady Neysa]

Don't you all just love chemises? MDRF starts in 2 weeks, and I'm starting to get the urge to wear my chemises to bed!

[bellevivre]

Don't you all just love chemises? MDRF starts in 2 weeks, and I'm starting to get the urge to wear my chemises to bed!

my silk one, most definitely! oooh its yummy!

[Rani Zemirah]

I need a new one for next month at KCMF, with a more medieval sleeve style, so I guess I'm going to have to stop talking about it and actually get to work... 

[isabelladangelo]

Long sleeved and linen!

Actually, there are some no sleeve chemises in period (http://gallowglass.org/jadwiga/pictures/bohemia/bathkeepers.html late 14th c into the early 15th c with some evidence that they existed well beyond that) but you normally wore your long sleeved gown or your "pretty" chemise over it...with a sleeveless gown.   

I prefer the long sleeves because it is cooler on the hot days.  Do you really want your arms to burn in the sun?   The less direct sunlight is a lot better for you and your skin.   Sun=wrinkles, ladies!

[operafantomet]

Though historical accuracy aren't your main concern, there ARE examples of short sleeves chemises in period sources.

First, there's the actual sleeveless chemise that Isabella described. There exist one from the 14th century; a picture of it was in a costume book (A history of Costume, by Köhler), but the book fails to mention from which country it originated and where it is today. It can be seen here:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/details/camiciola/extgarb14thc.jpg

In the 16th century it seems to always have been worn in addition to the long-sleeved chemise (as Isabella pointed out). There are different theories, but it was probably worn under the (often embroidered) long-sleeved one to protect it from sweat etc, and was possibly washed more often than the other. Here is a Lorenzo Lotto picture showing what seems to be the strap of a short-sleeved one appearing under a regular chemise and gown:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/details/camiciola/lotto1542anthony.jpg

Another options: women often took off or tied aside their sleeves from the dress when at home. This was particularly valid for working women, but also for the nobility. Sometimes you can see them depicted with a bodice and skirt, and only white (or embroidered) chemise sleeves, like here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/bugiardini1525nga.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/dance1565.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/zucchari1579flor.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/roma/zuccariloretomassilla2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/allori1595.jpg


But just as often there are depictions of how they've tucked or pinned up the long chemise sleeves sleeves. This was an effective way of getting them out of the way, and it is something to try at a faire if it's hot!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/pbordone.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/fasolo1570sdiv.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/allori1589pitti3.jpg


ETA: I haven't seen any examples of a chemise with elbow long sleeves, or just puffed sleeves, though. I think it first occurred in the late 17th century, when sleeves became elbow length, and the chemise adapted. Often it had a lace ending (engageant) which poked out of the dress sleeve, like you see in the mantuas:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/mantua/vanda1710-20uk.jpg

[Lady Renee Buchanan]

This past weekend at Bristol, both days it was 81 degrees.  The first day the humidity was 94%, the second day the humidity was 86%.  Both days people dropped like flies, and the First Aid was full a couple of times during the weekend.

One day I wore a long sleeved cotton chemise, the other day, a short sleeved cotton one.

What was I cooler in?  The short sleeved one.  Hands down.

[stonebiscuit]

You probably know this, but be careful of your tattoo in short sleeves. Sun exposure will fade it, burn it, and otherwise do unpleasant things to it. 

[SandrineDeLaTombe]

Oh, yes, stonebiscuit, high level SPF sunscreen is my friend even in little sunlight. 

[Athena]

This past weekend at Bristol, both days it was 81 degrees.  The first day the humidity was 94%, the second day the humidity was 86%.  Both days people dropped like flies, and the First Aid was full a couple of times during the weekend.

One day I wore a long sleeved cotton chemise, the other day, a short sleeved cotton one.

What was I cooler in?  The short sleeved one.  Hands down.

I agree with Renee. We had a hotter summer than usual in Ohio, and several days were 90 degrees or higher with high humidity. I have some muslin long sleeved shifts that are very comfortable in warm weather, but it was just too sticky and humid this year. I broke down and bought a couple of short sleeve muslin chemises, and what a world of difference. I was much cooler and more comfortable wearing those.

I just want to give a shout out to the performers and cast members who work in that kind of weather wearing several layers of clothing and heavy brocades. I don't know how they do it, but they have my undying admiration!