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Short vs. Long sleeved chemise?

Started by SandrineDeLaTombe, August 12, 2010, 11:07:52 AM

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Lady Rebecca

The chemise I've been wearing to faire is a cotton ivory long sleeve, though there is elastic at the wrists, so I frequently roll them up if it's hot. On the other hand, though, at the beginning of summer, I made myself a cotton bright red chemise to wear with my pirate garb, with embroidered sleeves that hit just above the elbow. And I've found that it's comfy and "normal" enough to wear even with mundanes! I wouldn't wear it to fair with my normal garb, since it's red, but I could totally see me making a white one.

So basically, wear whatever makes you comfortable, and don't fret about garb nazis.

DonaCatalina

Quote from: Lady Kathleen of Olmsted on August 12, 2010, 10:15:53 PM


Even when it is warm, I wear the long sleeved chemises. Then less sun on me, the better.
What she said  ;D
Mine are very thin eyelet cotton.
Aurum peccamenes multifariam texit
Marquesa de Trives
Portrait Goddess

Lady Kett

Quote from: SandrineDeLaTombe on August 13, 2010, 11:29:26 AM
(And that picture of you is adorable :))

Just for the record, that's my daughter, not me. :) But thank you, she cleans up well LOL.

SandrineDeLaTombe

Quote from: Lady Kett on August 13, 2010, 05:50:38 PM
Quote from: SandrineDeLaTombe on August 13, 2010, 11:29:26 AM
(And that picture of you is adorable :))

Just for the record, that's my daughter, not me. :) But thank you, she cleans up well LOL.

LOL, wow, well then she is your doppelganger, for sure! :)
I aim to misbehave

Lady Neysa

Don't you all just love chemises? :D MDRF starts in 2 weeks, and I'm starting to get the urge to wear my chemises to bed!

bellevivre

Quote from: Lady Neysa on August 14, 2010, 09:29:55 PM
Don't you all just love chemises? :D MDRF starts in 2 weeks, and I'm starting to get the urge to wear my chemises to bed!

my silk one, most definitely! oooh its yummy!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Belle the Kat

Clan Procrastination's Ambassador to the Seelie & UnSeelie Courts

Rani Zemirah

I need a new one for next month at KCMF, with a more medieval sleeve style, so I guess I'm going to have to stop talking about it and actually get to work...  :-\
Rani - Fire Goddess

Aut disce... aut discede

isabelladangelo

Long sleeved and linen!

Actually, there are some no sleeve chemises in period (http://gallowglass.org/jadwiga/pictures/bohemia/bathkeepers.html late 14th c into the early 15th c with some evidence that they existed well beyond that) but you normally wore your long sleeved gown or your "pretty" chemise over it...with a sleeveless gown.   

I prefer the long sleeves because it is cooler on the hot days.  Do you really want your arms to burn in the sun?   The less direct sunlight is a lot better for you and your skin.   Sun=wrinkles, ladies!

operafantomet

#23
Though historical accuracy aren't your main concern, there ARE examples of short sleeves chemises in period sources.

First, there's the actual sleeveless chemise that Isabella described. There exist one from the 14th century; a picture of it was in a costume book (A history of Costume, by Köhler), but the book fails to mention from which country it originated and where it is today. It can be seen here:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/details/camiciola/extgarb14thc.jpg

In the 16th century it seems to always have been worn in addition to the long-sleeved chemise (as Isabella pointed out). There are different theories, but it was probably worn under the (often embroidered) long-sleeved one to protect it from sweat etc, and was possibly washed more often than the other. Here is a Lorenzo Lotto picture showing what seems to be the strap of a short-sleeved one appearing under a regular chemise and gown:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/details/camiciola/lotto1542anthony.jpg

Another options: women often took off or tied aside their sleeves from the dress when at home. This was particularly valid for working women, but also for the nobility. Sometimes you can see them depicted with a bodice and skirt, and only white (or embroidered) chemise sleeves, like here:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/bugiardini1525nga.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/dance1565.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/zucchari1579flor.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/roma/zuccariloretomassilla2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/allori1595.jpg


But just as often there are depictions of how they've tucked or pinned up the long chemise sleeves sleeves. This was an effective way of getting them out of the way, and it is something to try at a faire if it's hot!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/pbordone.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/fasolo1570sdiv.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/cremona/campocremona1580s.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/allori1589pitti3.jpg


ETA: I haven't seen any examples of a chemise with elbow long sleeves, or just puffed sleeves, though. I think it first occurred in the late 17th century, when sleeves became elbow length, and the chemise adapted. Often it had a lace ending (engageant) which poked out of the dress sleeve, like you see in the mantuas:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/mantua/vanda1710-20uk.jpg

Lady Renee Buchanan

This past weekend at Bristol, both days it was 81 degrees.  The first day the humidity was 94%, the second day the humidity was 86%.  Both days people dropped like flies, and the First Aid was full a couple of times during the weekend.

One day I wore a long sleeved cotton chemise, the other day, a short sleeved cotton one.

What was I cooler in?  The short sleeved one.  Hands down.
A real Surf Diva
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Irish Penny Brigade
Giver of Big Hugs 
Member since the beginning of RF
All will be well. St. Julian of Norwich

stonebiscuit

You probably know this, but be careful of your tattoo in short sleeves. Sun exposure will fade it, burn it, and otherwise do unpleasant things to it.  :o

SandrineDeLaTombe

Oh, yes, stonebiscuit, high level SPF sunscreen is my friend even in little sunlight. 
I aim to misbehave

Athena

Quote from: Lady Renee Buchanan on August 25, 2010, 08:05:10 PM
This past weekend at Bristol, both days it was 81 degrees.  The first day the humidity was 94%, the second day the humidity was 86%.  Both days people dropped like flies, and the First Aid was full a couple of times during the weekend.

One day I wore a long sleeved cotton chemise, the other day, a short sleeved cotton one.

What was I cooler in?  The short sleeved one.  Hands down.

I agree with Renee. We had a hotter summer than usual in Ohio, and several days were 90 degrees or higher with high humidity. I have some muslin long sleeved shifts that are very comfortable in warm weather, but it was just too sticky and humid this year. I broke down and bought a couple of short sleeve muslin chemises, and what a world of difference. I was much cooler and more comfortable wearing those.

I just want to give a shout out to the performers and cast members who work in that kind of weather wearing several layers of clothing and heavy brocades. I don't know how they do it, but they have my undying admiration!





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