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Those darn front openings on gowns.

Started by Artemisia, January 29, 2011, 01:40:21 PM

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Artemisia

How do I make a gown without having an ugly front opening such as these:
http://www.wga.hu/html/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.html
http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bordone/port_wom.jpg
http://www.wga.hu/html/f/foschi/port_lad.html

Do they all open on the side? Is there some kind of front placket?

This one shows what seems like closures dotted through the waistline:
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/t/tiziano/10/1/15girlfa.html

This one shows bows at the waistline:
http://www.wga.hu/html/v/veronese/12/05woman.html

A close up of this one shows the chemise peeking through a small opening in the front of the gown. : http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/server.php?show=conObject.1496

OperaFantoMet posted a few pictures of one gown. I can't see a clear opening on these either: http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=83.msg67384#msg67384

*Sigh* So confused right now. :/
Artemisia Moltabocca
You haven't had enough coffee unless you can thread a sewing machine while it's running.

Cilean


Honey??
These close in the back, the Venetian does not really close at all, but check out Realm of Venus because she discusses many ways.

Cilean



Lady Cilean Stirling
"Looking Good is not an Option, It is a Necessity"
My Motto? Never Pay Retail

operafantomet

Hmm... Let's take the basics.

Italian dresses close either in the front, or in the side/back.

The side/back lacing seems to have been the most common one. Basically the bodice is only sewn together at the shoulders, while the front and back panel is laced together. The split they make is continued down into the skirt (which is usually sewn to the bodice). The benefit of it is that the lacing is not viewable from the front, and not too much from the back either. It is well documented in Florence, but can also be seen in other Italian city states. Some examples:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/extant/redpisa4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/vasari1559b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/pavonazzo/1562edt1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/pavonazzo/blueflor1.jpg

The front lacing was common in all of Italy in the early and high Renaissance. Later in the 16th century it mostly survived in Venice. The sides was often left a bit apart, so the chemise or a decorative modesty panel could be seen underneath. In the early Renaissance another dress could also be worn underneath. The front was usually closed with ladder lacing in the mid and late 16th century, while decorative lacing or bows was used earlier in the century. Some examples:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/ghirlandaio1485.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/firenze1/raphael1506.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia1/bordone1530s1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/bordonefuggerlady.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/veronese1561nursemaser.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/operafantomet/renaissanceportraits/venezia2/veronese1560snatgalireland.jpg
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/venetian/ladder.jpg

As far as I can tell, they almost always close through lacing. X lacing was not common, though a few examples exist. They're rare, though. Usually ladder lacing is used, as explained here:
http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/lacing/lacing.html

In period times, it's said a side/back bodice conveyed a message of nobility, I. E that the woman did not need to nurse her children and could use an impractical way of lacing the bodice. Her breasts was not functional, so to speak. This might be why working class ladies are seen with front laced dresses longer than noble ladies. But I want to add two things to that discussion: first, it does not apply to Venetian women in any way. Front laced bodices were THE way to dress there. Secondly, side/back laced dresses is of course impractical if you need to breastfeed. But they're rather OK to dress oneself in. One of the sides are always laced up, while you use an extremely long cord on the other side so the cord is in the holes, but wide enough for you to slip into it. All you have to do is tighten the lacing.

I hope that helped at least a bit. If you have any more questions, or something were unclear, feel free to ask!