Chemise fabric

[Lady Rebecca]

I have been commissioned by a friend to make her a chemise for her Irish dress. The thing is, she plans on wearing just the chemise under the dress, and not an additional skirt, so I'm worried about the material being too thin (I don't want it to be see through!). Does anyone have any recommendations for fabric types? I'm still trying to keep it really affordable for her.

I definitely want one that is either 100% cotton or almost 100%. I usually use muslin or broadcloth for chemises, but I feel like that might be too thin if that is all she has as the front of her skirt.


Also, on that note, what would be a good price to charge? I gave her an estimate of somewhere in the $50-60ish range (she's 5'2" and a very average size), depending on the type of fabric I use.

[raevyncait]

I made very basic chemises to go under irish dresses from plain white flat sheets from Wal-Mart last spring. They were nice and cool, and the bonus was that the way I cut them, I managed not to have to hem the bottoms or the ends of the sleeves.

[gem]

I never wear an underskirt with my Irish dresses (I know, I know, giant Ren fashion faux pas!). I've worn it with chemises that were white cotton broadcloth, silk, and cotton gauze. The gauze is a little bit translucent, so I make sure I have bloomers or knickers on underneath.

[Lady Rebecca]

Have you found that the broadcloth is thick enough, gem? I don't know if she plans to wear bloomers with it.

[gem]

Well, honestly, I wear knickers under all my dresses, so it's hard to say. The broadcloth is the thickest of my chemises, and more opaque than any of my linen shifts... but frankly, white is white, and it's *always* going to be a little bit see-through in certain lights (ever try to paint white over a darker color? Yeah, like that.). Even my pale ivory Much Ado skirt, which is FIVE YARDS of pretty hefty linen-cotton blend requires some underthings for modesty (although you can definitely see the difference between the transparency of the linen/cotton skirt and the rayon chemise in that picture!). Here's a picture of Milord's mum in her Much Ado garb; her skirt is basic muslin--which was *seriously* see-through in bright sunlight, but a pair of cotton bike shorts takes care of everything.

[isabelladangelo]

The problem with something too thick, like a broadcloth, is that she'll be too hot.  Since the Irish dress is fantastical anyway, what you might want to do is make the top of the chemise a nice, light, gauzy material like tissue linen and the bottom, or at least the bottom front, out of something thicker.   There is an extant chemise that is (clearly) in two parts like that here: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/va/smock/smock1.jpg   

Rather than an embroidered top, just have the tissue linen and make the bottom out of a medium or heavy weight linen.

[Marietta Graziella]

Does the chemise *have* to be white?  I have a chemise made from olive green crinkle gauze that I wear with my Irish dress and it looks just fine.   Sorry, can't find a good pic.

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

A Quilter's Weight Broadcloth with a slight pattern works wvery well for Chemises under Irish dresses. The Broadcloth is heavy enough, yet not too heavy as a Tablecloth Linen Brocade would be.

[amy]

If she is going for a rather faire wear look you might consider using the lighter fabric but put a 12 inch ruffle around the bottom.  It is cute for the Irish look and will add volume and layers.

[Anna Iram]

I have a chemise made from a medium weight muslin. I held it up to the light by itself and I can see the shadow of my hand, but with a skirt draped behind it I cannot. Hope this helps you decide.

[Lady Rebecca]

A Quilter's Weight Broadcloth with a slight pattern works wvery well for Chemises under Irish dresses. The Broadcloth is heavy enough, yet not too heavy as a Tablecloth Linen Brocade would be.

Thanks everyone! I went through my closet of chemises (how do I have so many?) and realized that the one I have with a white on white print (which I think is what you mean, Lady Kathleen?) is hardly see-through at all. I talked it over with my client, and she said that sounds great, so that will be the path I take. It's going to be a very faire-wear chemise - elastic neck so she can pull it down on her shoulders, and she wants a double puff elbow-length sleeve. I think the printed quilter's fabric will work nicely.

[gem]

I *heart* my double-puff sleeves so, so much, and after watching "Ever After" again last night, love them still more. 

[Cilean]

Does the chemise *have* to be white?  I have a chemise made from olive green crinkle gauze that I wear with my Irish dress and it looks just fine.   Sorry, can't find a good pic.

Nope, since the "Irish Gown" is pure fantasy? Why not use any ole color you want?  However? if you want to go all the way? Why not make a 'liene' for your friend?? If she has any issues with heat? Linen honey I so suggest that!  Can you convince her to wear another skirt? or Bloomers?

I would suggest medium weight linen for the best wear and feel.

Cilean