Beading

[Magpie Flynn]

Any tutorials/suggestions/hints on beading garb? What beads work best, what kind of thread? All my previous attempts are laughable.

[DonaCatalina]

From personal experience:

1.Glass beads of any type work best.
2. Pearls larger than 6mm have a tendency to look 'too fake'. Use with caution.
3. Usually its best to use a thread color that matches your fabric.
4. If you are using transparent glass beads (like red), try experimenting to see if your thread should match the bead or the fabric before you sew on 300 of them.
5. Always go through each bead twice with your thread.
6. When tying off the knots on each bead, leave a little 'tail' so that friction doesn't rub the knot out.
7. Beading your butinsky area usually leads to regret.
8. Be careful that you don't bead too close to the edge of your fabric and make sewing difficult. Use your thumb as a spacing guide. You can always add the odd bead later.

[Devangelon]

For beading "string" I and my friends use fire wire or fire line. Its a clear fishing line. Its a lot stronger than thread and doesn't tangle as bad as thread can.

[ArielCallista]

I've used clear thread for beading quite a bit before...its a little stiff so the knots are a bit weird to tie, but I usually use a tiny drop of fast drying super glue on the knot to make sure it wont untie.

[Sorcha]

I just started beading too!  It's fun and a bit addicting.   
Here's the thread I had posted when starting out.  Some good info here.
http://www.renaissancefestival.com/forums/index.php?topic=14542.0

And here is a link to my first beading project.   A set of sleeves:
http://pics.livejournal.com/coamrey/pic/00037g4w

[Magpie Flynn]

Awesome! Thanks for all the help guys!!

[Cilean]

I have found this site invaluable in beading my Garb!
http://old.medievalbeads.com/

I like fresh water pearls they have the best look for the buck!

Good luck!

[Evie McCann]

Sorcha, those are beautiful. It makes me want to start myself. Maybe I'll do something for my dad's new doublet.

[DonaCatalina]

I've used clear thread for beading quite a bit before...its a little stiff so the knots are a bit weird to tie, but I usually use a tiny drop of fast drying super glue on the knot to make sure it wont untie.

This is ok for small projects; but I was not about to go back and glue 5,240 pearls on the doublet we call Mr. Pearly.

[Syrilla]

It depends on the project, but I normally double two threads through a needle.  So, I end up with four thread going through the material at a time.  Most of my larger beads or ones that need a "straight" line is from the fabric one through, then back stitch then back through and add the next bead.  A bit time consuming, but with all my beads go through, it very rare for them to come off.  I also tie off frequently.

[isabelladangelo]

A friend of mine has posted a video on how to bead:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PF1JkEbbI4&feature=player_embedded

and a picture tutorial http://www.jennylafleur.com/bead/embroidery.htm

It's for multiple beads at a time.   For one bead at a time, I use a special "big eye" beading needle and thin thread that I can get through the bead at least twice before I knot it in the back.   I try to keep designs small so I don't have to cut the thread often (ie, keep the beads only a couple of inches a part).  I'll be beading this weekend so maybe I'll actually get around to making my own tutorial.  ;-)  but probably not...

[iain robb]

It depends on the project, but I normally double two threads through a needle.  So, I end up with four thread going through the material at a time.  Most of my larger beads or ones that need a "straight" line is from the fabric one through, then back stitch then back through and add the next bead.  A bit time consuming, but with all my beads go through, it very rare for them to come off.  I also tie off frequently.

That's similar to what I do. But I tie off each bead, then go to the next one. Unfortunately, I do not have experience with how well that holds up to wear -- all my beading is still in the "boy, someday I ought to finish what I started" pile.

[gem]

I hope Magpie doesn't mind if I glom onto her thread here, but I'm hoping I could get some advice/suggestions.

I am wanting to make an escoffion/beaded caul with the fabric below. I am an experienced beader with needlework (so I know how to thread/tie off, etc), but get very overwhelmed and confused in the beading aisle when it comes to costuming! I thought a little hat would be a good place to start, and I'd love to hear your suggestions for how you would bead this fabric.  It's a slightly metallic gold upholstery fabric with black accents:



...And this is the sort of hat I'm wanting to make:



Any ideas/suggestions for where to put the beads (a pattern/design), as well as for the exact sorts of beads to use (hopefully with pictures?)?

I look at everyone's beaded projects with envy, but my eyes glaze over when I actually go bead shopping! Help!

Gramercy!

[DonaCatalina]

You could use the same exact pattern with oat pearls and make the black dot the center of the 4 pearls. Oat pearls come in many colors so you really aren't limited to the traditional white.

[gem]

Thanks, Dona C!

I wouldn't do *every* intersection, right? I should space them a little more broadly?

I saw the oat pearls (which I have never heard of before, so thank you!) come in a really pretty purple. Would that be appropriate? Or do I need to stick to "natural" colors?

[DonaCatalina]

Glass 'pearls' were in commong use for garment beading in the Renaissance and from what I've seen they were not always white, but I can't see why you couldn't use purple. Its pretty close to the look of a real 'black' pearl.

[Lady De Rue Rue]

Does anyone experience aching hands after beading for an hour or so?  I have never experienced this dull aching in my fingers and joints until this winter when hand beading trim.  I put the dress on hold and I am starting the bead work this week because the weather by us is going into the 70's and 80's.

Thanks for any feedback!

[gem]

How are you holding the trim? If you can put it in a frame or hoop of some kind, it will probably be easier on your hands.

You might try some Handeze gloves, which offer gentle compression as you work with your hands. I also like the ones from Mueller, which have a Velcro strap for greater wrist support (although I wish they came in right and left models, so you could reverse the direction of the strap for greater support). They carry Handeze everywhere; you should be able to find them at any craft/fabric store. I bought my Muellers at Walgreens.

[DonaCatalina]

Yes!
I have had arthritis in several fingers for some years since they were broken. When its cold I can bead or do other hand sewing for maybe one hour at a time.
I use the chinese balls to relieve the cramps and work the soreness out.

[Lady De Rue Rue]

Many thanks for the replies.  The handeze gloves look wonderful, I will have to invest in a pair.  I have fibromyalgia and it really becomes hard to deal with in the winter so, I will have to see if the warmer temperatures will help when I start beading this weekend.

I did make the mistake of buying this gown on ebay, and then when it arrived it was too plain.  So instead of taking the trim off and beading first which I was a afraid to do because the gown is silk taffeta, I decided to save time and bead the trim on the gown.  Lesson learned! 

[gem]

Actually, I think that would be easier to deal with, because it's hard to put a thin strip of fabric into any kind of frame/hoop. My hands definitely get sore if I have to stitch in hand (no hoop), although hand sewing doesn't bother them nearly as much, probably because my left hand is not engaged entirely in holding the fabric *taut* enough to stitch on.  So if you're not already using a hoop or Q-snaps or something similar, start that now. I would be inclined to try something gentle, like Q-snaps, and pad them, so you don't dent the silk fabric of the gown (I was hoping to find a tutorial on padding the Q-snaps, but basically you use quilt batting between the frame and your fabric to cushion the work from rolling, beads, etc.).

Another thing is to make sure you're using a good, sharp needle (keep a good supply + an emery nearby), because it will be easier to get the needle through all the layers. You might be limited by the size of the holes in your beads, but on the whole, quilting hand needles tend to be pretty slim *and* nice and sharp.

Good luck!

[Adriana Rose]

beading needles are what you need to use, they are designed to be sharp. Use a hoop it really helps alot, it keeps it still and where you need it.

[Lady De Rue Rue]

I stocked up on beading needles this weekend, placing an order for the handeze gloves and the weather by us should hit 74 degrees with high humidity.  I am ready to start beading!

[DonaCatalina]

You might also want to invest in a needle threader.
Some of those beading needles have tiny eyes.

[gem]

Personally, I'm not a big fan of the beading needles. I find them fragile, floppy, and unwieldy. I much prefer using a small quilting needle; I find I have a lot more control. And I'm talking about beading fine needlework--one layer of lightweight fabric + teeny tiny seed beads. I imagine the beading needles are probably good for bead weaving, but for sewing beads onto things, I like something a little sturdier. YMMV, of course!

[Master James]

As far as what to use when beading I find that silkyon (rayon/silk thread) in a single strand works really well.  Its strong, easy to tie, comes in a multitude of colors, doesn't break and lasts forever.

[Adriana Rose]

Yes a threader is VERY handy with beading needles!


I learned how to bead with a beading needle and it feels weird to use anything else. Leather beading needles are about the size of a quilting needle but thats a different thread all togeather.