Pattern for a fitted chemise?

[gem]

I mentioned this blue dress from MR that Milord bought me for Christmas:


(full-length pic here)

It's a lovely, breezy lightweight cotton, perfect for hot days. It came with a beautiful heavy rayon chemise... not so perfect for hot days. It's too sheer to wear without a chemise under it, though, and my current chemises are all huge and flowy, and they won't work under the more fitted silhouette of this dress. I want to make a fitted (probably sleeveless) chemise to wear under it, and I'm hoping the pattern gurus might have suggestions! Even a basic mundane pattern for a slip or simple tank dress might work. I'll probably be using a hanky-weight linen.

I want an actual commercial pattern b/c Fair starts in 3 weeks, and I don't have the brain power/time/energy to draft one myself!

Suggestions?

Gramercy!

[Kathleen MacLeod]

You could always use the shift pattern from Simplicity 2621 (the Elizabethan undergarments). That's my project for today, and it's going well so far. I would definitely recommend cutting the shoulder straps farther in than the pattern has them, though. I sewed the body together and put it on, and it promptly slid right off again 

[DonaCatalina]

I think that this is actually what you are looking for since the gown is more of a 14th century style.

[gem]

Thanks, you both! As I was looking at the catalogue photo, I realized that the dress (which IMO is slightly too large on me), is *supposed* to be that loose! Huh.    Anyway.

I actually gave 2621 some thought, since I have it in my stash. It's very similar to the 18th C. smock I already have, which is what I will probably be wearing with this, at least until I have the red chemise for it figured out (going for a Miranda-esque look with it).

Dona C, I was looking in that direction, too, but was hoping for something that skimmed the body a little more.

Then I ran across McCall 4491, the sleeveless one, which looks promising. I don't think I have it in my stash, however. Shopping trip. Oh, what a trial. 

[Anna Iram]

Reconstructing History has a 14th century women's smock pattern. It's  sleeveless and fitted at the top with a simple scoop neck. Looks easy to make in a hurry.

[Orphena]

Ok, so I'm late for the party, but here are some ideas (pulled from what I could find in 5 minutes from my pattern stash).

Simplicity 4940 - I made this as a medieval gown, but, I made a mockup from a white sheet that I use as the under gown / chemise. I made the undergown about knee length, and left the sleeves completely off - but you could adapt it to copy the sleeves on your pretty gown.

Mccalls 4492 - although it looks like it takes more fabric.. same idea, just change the sleeves

Burda 7977  is very high necked, but might be a good starting point

An old out of print Mccalls 8826 - definatly on my "try" list, but haven't gotten to it yet.


Of those, it is only the simplicity one that I have made, but I made it twice, and the pattern does go together nicely!

[isabelladangelo]

Gem, I missed this the first time around.  Have you checked out any the "Bohemian Bathhouse babes" styled chemises?  That may be an option.  http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/pictures/bohemia/bathkeepers.html

I'd also look at a basic smock.  They aren't completely fitted but they do have a narrower sleeve and a fitted neck. http://www.elizabethancostume.net/chemise.html

The picture looks vaguely like a Turkish styled chemise underneath it.  http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extcam2.htm

[Betty Munro]

Simplicity 2573    The underdress is more of a "shift". 

[isabelladangelo]

Just an idea but:

have you considered a placet beneath the gown?

http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-placket.html

The dress looks to be about the 1470's/1480's in style.  It would help with the "sheer" problem.

[Betty Munro]

Wow, that website is fantastic!  I just wish she hadn't protected all of her pictures.  I favorited the website for future reference.  Excellent 14/15th century research!

[isabelladangelo]

Oh yes, she's awesome when it comes to late Medieval research.  I use her website a lot for all her 15th C stuff.

[operafantomet]

Wow, that website is fantastic!  I just wish she hadn't protected all of her pictures.  I favorited the website for future reference.  Excellent 14/15th century research!

Yes, she is a fantastic resource! But what do you mean by "protected" pictures - that you can't download them? That works fine for me (though on a Mac - you just drag the picture over to your desktop). You could eventually do a screencap?

Gem, if you're not going to use the rayon chemise, maybe you could rip up the seams and use it as a pattern for a new one?