Author Topic: question on fabric choice  (Read 546 times)

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Offline lady serena

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question on fabric choice
« on: October 05, 2011, 10:24:25 AM »
I was asked if linen 51% / rayon 49% would work for Simplicity pattern 4488.? I have no clue, I'm wondering if it would stretch out of shape and if the drape would be somewhat skewed. Help please. Thanks
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Offline gem

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Re: question on fabric choice
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2011, 12:04:02 PM »

I've heard about issues with linen/rayon blends stretching as they're worn and "bagging out" in applications like pants, etc, so I understand your friend's concern. This pattern, though... Well, the skirt should probably be fine. It won't undergo stress and stretching from the movement of knees or a person's seat (obviously, hang the skirt before hemming to allow any chance of the fabric drooping/relaxing). And the bodice, if it's constructed properly, should probably be fine, too. From making a previous incarnation of this pattern, I'm going to assume that Simplicity calls for fusible interfacing and a lining of the bodice, along with minimal boning (probably featherlight, probably along the lacing edges only). Using the fusible on the fashion fabric itself might be enough to keep the linen/rayon from stretching out of shape.

But there are better ways to build a bodice, which will take the strain of the garment completely off the fashion fabric and pretty much eliminate any chance of the fabric stretching. Using a sturdy canvas flatlining, and boning it well with something like cable ties, will help maintain the structural integrity of this bodice. Here is a dress I made of 100% linen (which also stretches, tho' not as much as your blend), with a hemp-corded flatlining, and you can see how smooth the bodice fit is. There are some excellent long threads here about bodice construction that explain all of these tips in detail.

Now, having said all that... like I said, I made an earlier version of this pattern, with the lightly lined/barely boned bodice, and I found it wildly comfortable to wear, without all the heavy structural support I'm recommending. Of course, I made mine from cotton velveteen, which is very stable, so I wasn't worried about the bodice stretching over time... but the bodice is also not that fitted.

She's probably going to be fine with that fabric.

Good luck!


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