Corset making supplies tips and tricks

[Auryn]

After reading the instructions at nauseum as well as several books, I feel like I can undertake my first corset attempt- its going to be in the victorian style.
I have gone through and done a couple of searches of all the topics that have been posted and I still have a couple of questions.
And I figured who better to ask but such knowledgeable folk as yourselves.
So I will start with the questions
1- what do you use as a substitute for coutil in the lining?? i have only found it at a couple of websites and they want $25/yd aka- not gonna happen. What would be a good and easy to find substitute?
2-what is your take on bone casing?? I have seen instructions with and without but I would like to know what you guys think about which way is better and which way is faster.
3-lacing bones- yay or nay??

I know the jury is 50/50 on busks- i havent decided yet if I am going to go with a busk or buckles.

I have been looking at corsetmaking.com so far for supplies

any other suggestions?
any tips or tricks you would be willing to share that maybe you had to learn the hard way and wish someone had told you about it??

[Kate XXXXXX]

Which pattern have you opted for?

If the pattern recommends a busk, use the type it specifies.  You will get far better results.

For a Victorian corset, there really is no substitute for coutil.  You need about a yard to a yard and a half, depending on the size, and you can get a plain one for not too spendy amounts.  Look for German or English coutil: they are the best.  Coutil is not a lining: it is the STRENGTH LAYER.  It needs to be strong, smooth, comfortable, and not stretch at all.  I have bought from Vena Cava and Sew Quick here in the UK, and Whaley's for the dead plain stuff.

I tend to use the sandwich method of corset construction rather than bone casings.  For strong decorative casings, you could try fusing some of your fashion fabric to the coutil and cutting strips.  It'll depend how bulky the fashion fabric is, though...

I've never used lacing bones.  They tend not to be very strong.  I use heavy duty flat steel for the back lacing and make the eyelets close together.

You could go a long way and waste a lot of cash doing this without proper guidance.  I strongly recommend Linda Sparks' book, The Basics of Corset Building:

[Auryn]

thanks Kate
that is the actual book i have been reading.
I have had it checked out from my local library for about 2 months now

You could go a long way and waste a lot of cash doing this without proper guidance.

thats exactly why I have been reading and reading and asking questions-

[Kate XXXXXX]

I cannot echo Linda's advice strongly enough!

You might also like Jill Salen's book:



Oh, and if you can, pop over to Live Journal and join us in the Corsetmakers community: masses of advice from professional corset makers, and shedloads of stuff to read in the archives.  Well worth looking through the archives, as most of your questions may well already have answers there.   

[gem]

Since you only need about a yard of coutil, $25/yard is *not* particularly expensive. You're not making a gown, train, and sleeves out of the stuff, after all!

ETA: Vogue Fabrics has coutil for $19.99/yard, and they recommend something called "down proof ticking" as a substitute ($8/yard).

http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/Fabrics-and-Netting-for-Corsets-and-Costumes/

[Auryn]

Thanks for the link Gem, I did go look over there earlier today.

Kate- thanks for the tip on the livejournal group- I joined earlier today and promptly lost about 3 hours of my day reading .

I am wondering if I should go ahead and make a mock up of the corset in standard cottons,to practice the techniques of creating the boning channels , fitting etc, before I invest in the coutil.
That way I am in less danger of screwing up expensive fabric.

[theatrekat]

You can also find coutil at one of my favorite sites, www.tutu.com, for less than $10 a yard. You can find it in the lining & panty subcategory of their fabrics menu.

-kat

[Auryn]

theatrekat
have you actually bought tutu.com's less expensive coutil??
I ask because I found a couple of posts on corseting blogs were people were dissappointed in the quality.

[Anna Iram]

Auryn, the only corset I've made was my elisabethan using two layers of cotton duck and sandwiching the boning rather than using casings. It's held up very well with no poke throughs,   but the duck is a bit stiff and thick I think compared to my ( purchased) victorian. The coutil seems much finer and lighter, though still very sturdy.

Now, there does seem to be a difference between domestic and Euopean coutil. I don't know what it is other than a hugh price difference. This site says domestic has a bit more give. Not, maybe what you'd want for a corset, though fine for dancewear. Perhaps the other ladies could guide you bettrr on this.

http://www.tutu.com/fab_lining.html

*edit: just noticed the post prior to mine. Tutu's is non returnanable so be sure it's what you want.*

[Kate XXXXXX]

Thanks for the link Gem, I did go look over there earlier today.

Kate- thanks for the tip on the livejournal group- I joined earlier today and promptly lost about 3 hours of my day reading .

I am wondering if I should go ahead and make a mock up of the corset in standard cottons,to practice the techniques of creating the boning channels , fitting etc, before I invest in the coutil.
That way I am in less danger of screwing up expensive fabric.

Hehehe...  You'll lose more, believe me!   

Yes, do a mock up.  Maybe get some of the cheap coutil for that, and save some pennies for the real thing.  And while it's possible to use cable ties for the mock up, it might be better to get a roll of spiral boning and some flat steels and use them in the mock up as well.  You get better results using the real thing.

[Anna Iram]

So I visited the site I purchased my corset from, Scarlete's Corsets.  Seems I was wrong and it's not coutil. It's made with three layers. The outer is silk and the two inner are cotton twill. If you are certain you don't want to spend $25 yd. for coutil this might be an option, though if it were me I'd use Kate's advice.

[Auryn]

Thanks everyone for the input.
I am definitely going to use spiral steel boning even for the mock up corset- so as to give me the practice of putting the tips on and making the correct channels.
I am an A cup so I am not too worried about restraining support as there isnt much to restrain

I've been thinking of dipping the cut ends of the spiral boning in some silicone instead of using metal tips, anyone tried it??

[Kate XXXXXX]

Re sillicone tipping stuff: doesn't work on spirals, you really do need the metal tips.

[stonebiscuit]

I have a pile of tutu.com coutil sitting in front of me. I haven't started sewing with it, but from handling it and washing it I have nothing but joy to report. If that changes, I'll repost.

[Auryn]

thanks for letting me now stonebiscuit
I look forward to hearing about your experience using their coutil.
It is so much more less expensive that I really hope it works out