Author Topic: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?  (Read 7585 times)

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Offline gem

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Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« on: May 31, 2012, 07:50:51 PM »
I'm just getting ready to start a muslin of this (view B, the short one) for Milord's dad. I'll be seeing him next weekend for what will probably be the one and only test fit (we live in different states). I know Big 3 patterns tend to run large, and I'm wondering what everyone's experience with this one was, fit-wise.

Milord's dad has recently lost quite a bit of weight (about 60 lbs), from when I made him his last garb, so *theoretically* he should be easier to fit this time! He is very small in the shoulders, but still with a fair amount of belly. The last time, I cobbled together two patterns and multiple sizes--a medium, IIRC, in the shoulders, and something like a 4X in the waist. Happily, his measurements (chest/waist/hips) now fall squarely in the XL size range, but I know his shoulders haven't gotten any wider! (Neck-to-shoulder he's 6", shoulders across back 18".)

Any advice for tackling the muslin? My instinct is to split the difference and cut out a large, but that may be asking for trouble...

Gramercy!!

Offline Dinobabe

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2012, 09:40:49 PM »
Here's a pic of hubby in the one I made him.  It's a bit straight lined down the sides.  If I made it again I might take in the sides a bit.  Hubby is an XL for size reference and I followed the sizing guide.  Not the best pic of us. ::)

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Offline Butch

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2012, 10:00:11 PM »
These doublets are quite straight sided, not fitted at all.  I have been disappointed with the lack of taper to the waist.  So, for your FIL, this may be just the thing! 

I believe this pattern has a seam down the center back, so make the muslin mockup in XL, and take it in at the rear center seam and the front opening.  You may also wish to leave extra material at the arm holes and trim them after fitting the chest.  You probably will not take anything in at the side seams.  Lastly, since you're doing a mockup, be sure to see where the waistline hangs, and adjust it up for the tabs.

Also, I have always made a lining piece for the inside rear of the neck, and attached it to the inside front pieces.  I have never used their trim guide, nor their lacing guide.

Good luck!

Offline LadyStitch

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2012, 01:37:29 AM »
Gem I have used this pattern many times. I find that it runs true to pattern size.  When I made the PP's latest long doublet , View B,  I did a Full abdomen adjustment.  I did what matched his chest, then added 2 inches to the front using that adjustment.   It turned out great. Just keep in mind you will be changing the bottom edge length so you will need to add more 'tabs' at the bottom.

I've done MANY FAbA for people and they make guys look so much neater than just doing a bigger size.
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Offline Alexandra Johanna

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2012, 12:50:34 PM »
4059 is the pattern I used last year to make my first doublet for the hubby. He SHOULD wear an XL in regular clothes. He prefers a 2XL for comfort and because he's self-conscious of his midsection. I cut the XL with no alterations and it was still loose on him. So I put clasps on the front instead of lacing and he wore it open for the most of the day since our faire is in July and August and heat is always a concern. He is also fairly narrow in the shoulders with some extra stuffing in the middle ;-) The shoulders were definitely a bit wide if I were going for a fitted look. Maybe I should have cut the large instead.

This is his modeling efforts at home with it closed, and then how he wore it to faire last season... LOL

 

Offline DragonWing

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2012, 09:17:23 AM »
I have used the pattern many times also. Here they are in differant versions and colours. I have made it with the seam down the back and with out a seam. For Brent the doublet turned out a little big so I had to make sure I took it in a little while sewing. I would say just play with and many fittings.  ;)



Long version















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Offline amy

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #6 on: June 05, 2012, 01:03:02 PM »
Those are all so scrumptious.   I especially like those which look like cloth of gold and silver.  I am no help on the pattern... Just enjoying the pretty stuff today... Thank you!

Offline DonaCatalina

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2012, 08:44:43 AM »
I myself have never used that exact pattern because it seemed too short. And of course Dragonwing with his skills goes ahead and makes it look absolutely terrific.
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Offline DragonWing

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2012, 01:58:43 PM »
Thank you Amy, M'Lord Brent loves his shiney materials  ::)

DonCatalina, Thank you as well. You are to sweet.  ;)

As you can see that is what kept me busy all last spring and summer. Since then I have made two cloaks with removeable hooded caplet and now working on flat hats and muffin hats. I think Kilts will be next. And again with M'Lords love of the shiney we have found silver and black plaid lame'.

As for Gems question, Butch said it well with the back seam.
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Offline gem

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2012, 11:40:18 PM »
Thanks, everyone!!  Great information, and I *really* appreciate all the pictures. DragonWing, WOWZA. I knew you'd done this one, but NINE?! Nine of them?!! That's amazing. They all look spectacular, but my favorite is the red silk that's open in the front. Gorgeous.

I ended up cutting a large through the neck/shoulders and an XL in the girth, which resulted in a little wonkiness in the side-back seams that I need to correct--but that's OK, I still have the princess seam block I drafted for him for the Much Ado project, and I'll just replicate that curve. I don't think it's going to affect the fit. We'll see this weekend. Assuming I remember to pack all my fitting paraphernalia!  ::)  (Usually they come to me.)

Butch, I wasn't quite sure what this meant:
Quote
Also, I have always made a lining piece for the inside rear of the neck, and attached it to the inside front pieces.

Do you mean like a facing? Even then, I'm still not picturing this.  I'm planning to make this reversible (nice upholstery/corduroy on one side, cotton twill for the reverse) instead of lining it.

***
Next on the to-do list: mastering couching on velvet.

Offline DragonWing

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2012, 09:35:24 AM »
Thanks Gem. Yes I have been busy. I think I can do those in my sleep now. LOL!
The red silk is a good one and it can double as a pirate outfit with a waste sash. It does have sleeves but he hasn't worn them yet with it.  In addition to the cloaks and hats, I forgot to mention that I made a jerkin out of green faux suede with simple machine leaf/vine embroidery. I have more on my list of things to do.  ::)
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Offline Kate XXXXXX

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #11 on: June 07, 2012, 09:42:08 AM »
Welcome to the world of fully-fledged garb addicts, DW!

Offline Dinobabe

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2012, 09:53:48 AM »
Do you mean like a facing? Even then, I'm still not picturing this.  I'm planning to make this reversible (nice upholstery/corduroy on one side, cotton twill for the reverse) instead of lining it.

I tell anyone if you are going to line it then just make it reversible!  Same amount of work for two garments! ;D
Natasha McCallister
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Offline DragonWing

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2012, 10:12:59 AM »
 :D Kate as soon as I got back into sewing and the garb, I knew I was going there. There was no stopping it.
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Offline Butch

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Re: Fit of Simplicity 4059 doublet?
« Reply #14 on: June 08, 2012, 01:08:40 PM »
Butch, I wasn't quite sure what this meant:
Quote
Also, I have always made a lining piece for the inside rear of the neck, and attached it to the inside front pieces.

Do you mean like a facing? Even then, I'm still not picturing this.  I'm planning to make this reversible (nice upholstery/corduroy on one side, cotton twill for the reverse) instead of lining it.

***
Next on the to-do list: mastering couching on velvet.
Gem, I'm talking about those front pieces you cut for the inside opening.  They end right around the shoulder seams inside.  I end up making a matching piece for inside the rear neck connecting the two front inside pieces.  Look at the 6th photo in DragonWing's series; the black damask with the red.  At the front neckline, the red piece folded down.  That's what I mean!

You said you made it large thru the shoulders, but XL lower.  How did the arm holes turn out?  That would be my concern!

 

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