Question on garb making

[Nidhoggr]

Ahoy! I have a background in some sewing.  Learned as a kid, have done plenty of repairs on clothing and modified it some.  I also do leatherworking so I am familiar with different strengths of thread.  The one thing I've never understood is how to read a pattern.  I really want to get into hand making my own garb but the patterns confuse me.  Any one have any tips on this?

[operafantomet]

Ahoy! I have a background in some sewing.  Learned as a kid, have done plenty of repairs on clothing and modified it some.  I also do leatherworking so I am familiar with different strengths of thread.  The one thing I've never understood is how to read a pattern.  I really want to get into hand making my own garb but the patterns confuse me.  Any one have any tips on this?

I've never understood patterns either. My best advice is to ignore them.

Seriously though, if you choose a not too advanced pattern, there shouldn't be too many pieces to deal with. Cut out a tryout version of each piece in cheap cotton. Understand which side is up and which side is down, which is the front and which is the back. Mark the middle of the sides (can easily be achieved by folding the fabrics), and put middle against middle in the various panels. Stitch loosely together.

Try it on inside-out, and make eventual adjustments. Chalk up where the correct seams are, cut off eventual excess fabric, and pick the seams apart. Use the mock-up pieces as pattern for the more expensive fabric. Cut out as before, mark the middle as before, stitch it together like before, and try it on again. If it's good, sew proper seams.

Did that make sense?

[Nidhoggr]

Somewhat.  So essentially: Cut out said pattern.  Chalk outline the pattern onto cloth.  Pin it. Adjust it. Stitch it.

[Margaret]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koDdlAwJlKg&feature=related

Good old YouTube.  The above video will talk about what the marking on the pattern are and all that fun stuff.

[PollyPoPo]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koDdlAwJlKg&feature=related

Good old YouTube.   The above video will talk about what the marking on the pattern are and all that fun stuff.

OMG - I feel so old!  Just seeing the words "Good old YouTube" sends shivers down my spine and more wrinkles on my face.  When I tell the grandkids "there was a time when there was no (...whatever...)" they patiently and kindly respond with "Sure, whatever you say, Grandma."

Sigh.

[gem]

I recommend this great article from Threads Magazine, which walks you through the outside of a pattern envelope.

Somewhat.  So essentially: Cut out said pattern.  Chalk outline the pattern onto cloth.  Pin it. Adjust it. Stitch it.

Pretty much, but before you do ANY of that:

1.) The first step is to properly take a set of measurements, and compare them to the size chart on the back of the pattern. Most patterns are NOT sized like your ready-to-wear clothing (if you're a woman); they're sized by your measurements. Select your pattern size (and in many cases, group of sizes, as most commercial patterns are multi-sized, and often the smaller sizes are in one envelope and the larger ones in another). The back of the pattern envelope will also tell you how much fabric to buy for your size.

2.) Next, READ ALL PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS, beginning to end. Probably twice. Familiarize yourself with the very first page of the instructions, where all of the pattern markings are explained, and the general sewing directions are. You'll find markings on the pattern that indicate where to cut for a particular size, dots and "notches" that show where different pieces match up, as well as other markings that correspond with specific steps in the pattern instructions (ie, "gather between small dots").

3.) Prep your pattern. Unfold all that tissue and find the pieces you need. On the first page of the pattern there's a picture showing each pattern piece, what it is, and what it goes to. This blogger has a good example; see where she's circled the pieces she needs for the item she's making? Roughly cut out the pattern pieces--leave a decent margin around them as you cut them out; it will make layout/cutting a little easier later. This next bit is a wee bit fussy, but it can dramatically improve your results: I like to press my pattern pieces with a warm dry iron so they're nice and smooth and flat. This step also helps me familiarize myself with the pattern pieces I'll be working with, as well as any special markings on them. And not having weird creases makes the pattern tissue MUCH easier to work with.

4.) Next, consult the cutting layout diagram. This will advise you on a reasonably efficient way to lay your pattern pieces on the fabric. Pay attention to what pieces should be laid with one edge on a fold (like the back of a bodice), whether each piece should be laid face up or face down on the fabric, and whether you'll have to lay a piece out multiple times to cut enough. It will also tell you how to fold the fabric before you lay the pattern out; pay attention to the direction of any print or nap on the fabric, as well as the fabric grain.

Generally speaking, you will want to PIN the pattern to your fabric, and then cut on the bold outline for your size. I do actually prefer to trace my patterns onto my fabric--but that's harder to do with tissue straight from the envelope. I usually stick with patterns I've drafted myself on stiffer paper. Pay attention to the markings given on the pattern (notches, dots, etc)--and copy those onto your cut pieces.

5.) Read the instructions again. You can now proceed to assemble the garment (or mockup) according to the instructions. When I was teaching myself to sew my first big project, I went very carefully, proceeding only when I was reasonably sure I understood the next step. I promised myself I'd stop for the day when I got confused by a step. I gained a lot of confidence that way, making sure I was never overwhelmed by the whole garment ahead of me--I just had to do the next item on the instructions.   Eventually you'll have enough experience to do multiple steps at once, or disregard the pattern instructions altogether. But it is valuable to tackle at least one, beginning to end, following it to the letter. You'll learn a lot that way.

Good luck!

[Kate XXXXXX]

Do what Gem says!  And IRON you pattern!  it irons out all the wrinkles that distort it.

I always advise folk to trace a copy of the pattern to use and alter, so you have the original to refer back to if things go horribly wrong.  Rough cut the pieces you need for the garment you are making, then iron them flat and trace them.  That way you are not fighting with all those massive sheets of wrinkled paper tissue that is flimsy as hell.

Here's how to take measurements:  http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Measuring/Taking-measurements.htm

If you are making something for a corseted figure, either buy or make a properly fitted pair of bodies/stays FIRST..  Then do your measurements and make the garments fit over the stays.

[DonaCatalina]

I second Kate's advice.
I like to use the back of plaid Christmas paper. The original tissue patterns don't hold up very well.

[Hoowil]

I found I could cut the pattern out, then tape it to a heavier paper, like wrapping paper or brown paper, then just cut it out again. I've only tried it with scotch tape, but as your cutting the tape anyway.. It'll give you a duplicate without the shifting and tearing like if your trying pin and trace.

My own little note: when using store bought patterns, make sure to cut out the little diamond tabs properly. They're usually marked backwards on the patterns, and can help prevent headaches from trying to get things to line up.

[Ser Niall]

I think the biggest piece of advice when dealing with patterns is to fully understand the instructions before you start.  I spent weeks reading, and re-reading the instructions before I even bought my fabric.  If I didn't understand something, I tried googling it (if it was a sewing term I didn't know), or asked a question here on the forum.  As gem mentioned, if I felt confused by a step, I step away from it for a while.  Sometimes coming back with a fresh head works wonders.

[Nidhoggr]

Thank you guys so much! I have already taken up the hobbies of leatherworking, maile making, mead making,  and various other ren-faire odd's and ends but this is the one aspect that alluded me for sometime.

[Kate XXXXXX]

I found I could cut the pattern out, then tape it to a heavier paper, like wrapping paper or brown paper, then just cut it out again. I've only tried it with scotch tape, but as your cutting the tape anyway.. It'll give you a duplicate without the shifting and tearing like if your trying pin and trace.

My own little note: when using store bought patterns, make sure to cut out the little diamond tabs properly. They're usually marked backwards on the patterns, and can help prevent headaches from trying to get things to line up.

I have to admit that I tend to slap the dot&cross down on top of the pattern pieces and they don't shift.  I may use one or two pins...

And I rarely cut notches!  Takes way too much time.  I just mark the seam allowance with a pencil or snip the notches inwards with a single snip per notch.

I also usually ignore pattern instructions.  Mind you, these days I use home drafted patterns for most things, and they don't come with instructions!  Practice helps, and once you start drafting your own and using proper period tailoring methods, you can usually find a better way of constructing than the pattern instructions with commercial patterns.

Nidhoggr, this will all come in time.  The best bit of learning to sew advice came from a friend on another board: just cut lots of strips and practice making seams: curved ones, straight ones, and those okkard jobs with one bit curved one way and one t'other!  And remember it's the SEAM LINE you match up, never the cut edges!

[Lady Kathleen of Olmsted]

My suggestion is to enroll in Sewing Classes through a local Community Education Program in your city/town. Taught by Expert Sewers for Novice through Advanced Sewers. That way, you know the rudiments of using Patterns, sewing techniques, stitches, etc. There are also a bevy of Books for such purposes. What you learn sewing Mundane clothing such as a Skirt, pants, etc., carries forward to making garb.

I took a lot of sewing classes in Jr. and Sr. High School back in the 1960's. Many of the Neightbor Ladies sewed and I was able to latch on to one of them who taught me the basics of Patterns for my own clothes. But it was evident I needed more education.

Sewing is a continuing process of learning new techniques. After 50 years, I am still learning new things I never knew possible.

KEEP LEARNING!!!

[Kate XXXXXX]

Sewing is a continuing process of learning new techniques. After 50 years, I am still learning new things I never knew possible.

You're being me again...

[Rowan MacD]

My suggestion is to enroll in Sewing Classes through a local Community Education Program in your city/town. Taught by Expert Sewers for Novice through Advanced Sewers. That way, you know the rudiments of using Patterns, sewing techniques, stitches, etc. There are also a bevy of Books for such purposes. What you learn sewing Mundane clothing such as a Skirt, pants, etc., carries forward to making garb.

Sewing is a continuing process of learning new techniques. After 50 years, I am still learning new things I never knew possible.

KEEP LEARNING!!!

^^^^THAT^^^.   I plan to take some lessons (when they have a class that involves more than making dishcloths and pillow covers).  
   There are many online sources to explain the pattern/sewing terms used in the directions, many with pictures and videos.

 Ideally, I trace my tissue pattern pieces onto pattern drafting fabric-(available at sewing stores) because it's transparent, durable and has a grid pattern printed on it.  I just lay the tracing medium over the desired piece on the sheet and follow the lines in the desired size.  That way I don't have to cut out the tissue version original (makes folding it back up easier too).
  If drafting fabric is too expensive-look around for the light weight interfacing, and buy the widest width you can find so you won't have to tape pieces together.   I get the .99 ot 1.99 yd. sale stuff.
 Whatever you do...don't forget to transfer the fabric pattern or weave direction arrows, dots and notches to the copy!  I'm always forgetting that, and always having to go back to the original pattern piece.
    If you are using pattern pieces that are numbered, named or have a 'side' to them, faithfully transfer those markings too.   It also helps to include the lengthen/shorten location lines.
 If the pattern has multiple sizes (like Margo Anderson) make sure you mark what size the finished pattern is, in case you decide to make the same item in a different size later on.   It will save you a major headache.
 Once you have the pattern pieces traced you can adjust the fit and length.