This might be a dumb question, but...

[gem]

 How do you test-fit a corset (etc) mockup?  Do you keep your bra on, and then trust that it will fit once you've gotten all the boning in?

I'm getting ready to start a mockup for a kirtle bodice that will be heavily-boned enough to eliminate the need for a corset.  Should I fit it *over* my corset?  Over my bra?  Over a snug tanktop?  Or without anything?  The Endowment Fairy was generous to me, so I *need* the boning/support, and I'm wondering how to make this work during the mockup phase!

Gramercy!

[Marietta Graziella]

Hey Gem,
NOT a dumb question!   
During the first bodice workshop with Baroness Doune we completely spaced the fact that I was wearing a bra during the mock-up process.  Result:  A bodice that is too loose in the top that I constantly feel the need to "adjust" to keep things fluffy.

2nd workshop:  No bra, changed the pattern slightly to accomodate the bust position.  Result:  A much better fitted bodice that needs only a mid day tighten up to take up the stretched fabric but no fussing to keep things fluffy.

My recommendation is NO bra during fitting.  You won't be wearing a bra under the bodice when it's finished, right?  Just make your mock up with the boning channels sewn in, duct ties (or your choice of boning) inserted but not cut to fit just yet.  Adjust as necessary. 

[Kate XXXXXX]

I have to go with Marietta: you aren't going to wear a bra under the corset, so you don't for the fittings.

[nliedel]

I wear a bra under my bodice. Isn't that the saddest thing?

Gem I've not seen a dumb question from you yet and a ton of fabu answers.

[gem]

Aw, thanks, N.

I guess what I'm really trying to ask (as delicately as possible), is what holds your, ahem, assets in place while you're trying to fit everything?  Is this a (blush) two-person job?

[Baroness Doune]

Use 2 layers of muslin for the mockup.  Cut the bodice/corset so that you can pin it up the front.  (Once you have the fit right, you can change the position of the closure when cutting the fashion fabric.)   I add 2 inches of grip space when cutting the mockup.  You can see the 2 inches of grip space here.  The two layers of muslin are sewn together to create the channels to insert the boning.  Lots of boning channels are sewn but, depending on the amount of assets, only enough channels are used to provide the proper silhouette.

It is helpful to have someone pin you up while you relieve the tension on the pinning area by pressing with your hands about two inches away on either side of where the pins will go, although it is possible to do it completely on your own.  (That takes a bit of 'plaining which I can't do right now because I am at work.)

After pinning do the ELM.

[gem]

(Once you have the fit right, you can change the position of the closure when cutting the fashion fabric.)

This alone is ENORMOUSLY helpful!  And your pictures, as always, tell me so much.  Thx.

[jmkhalfmoon]

I always wear one of those built in bra, spaghetti strap tank tops under my bodice.  I do this so I can just slip the bodice on in the parking lot when I change.  Plus, heaven forbid I have a bodice malfunction, I at least have a protective layer.  So I wear that when I'm fitting my bodice.