Bodice Closure

[Meagan]

I am making a bodice, and I mismarked where the boning was  supposed to go. I had planned on the standard grommet and lacing, but as it is I would have to put the grommets over an inch in from the side. I don't think that would look very nice so I would like ideas on other ways to close the bodice. Would it be okay to put the grommets on the outer edge of the boning or would this make the area too weak? The garment is lined with canvas and the outer material is almost as thick.

[skitter]

I think it may partially depend on how tight you are lacing it -- if you are lacing it tight, the stress on the eyelets with no boning between them and the seam/edge may be too much for it. 

Is your boning in a fabric channel?  If so, is it too late to take it out and reposition it the way you originally planned? 

[gem]

Can we see a picture?

I've used a variety of closures with success. This bodice has grommets, and I haven't measured, but it looks like they're getting close to 3/4" or so from the edges, and it works/looks fine to me! You may be OK with where your boning is now.

It's kind of hard to see, but this dress closes with clasps (and has no boning), which is a look I love (somebody posted a beautiful doublet gown with clasps in the Finished Projects thread this morning), and this one has lacing rings instead of grommets/eyelets. Here's a closeup. (I took that photo to show an unattractive version of spiral lacing, so just ignore the fugly lacing; it looks a lot better IRL!) I am honestly surprised by how sturdy the clasps and lacing rings have turned out to be. Even under a fair amount of strain on a bodice, they've held fast for several seasons!

Another method, which is strong and works well for bodice openings that meet edge-to-edge, is hooks and eyes. This might work well for you, as they're meant to be placed close to the edge, on the outside of any boning (and it's a period method of closure, as well). I kind of miss having the ornamentation of a visible closure, but YMMV!

[Wickedvox]

Meagan--I've done this! I use hand-bound eyelets (buttonhole embroidery stitch). I placed mine on the edge when I did it and they still hold up. But just to be sure, you can buttonhole stitch over lacing rings to give them more reinforcement.

[Meagan]

DSC00081 by Gremco, on Flickr

This is the bodice. I lined the inner edge of the ruler to the outer edge of the boning. The gap isn't as large on the sides as it is on the stomacher. I sewed a boning channel onto the material that is the lining, which has been basted to the outer material and then had the bias tape sewn around the edges. I was trying to line the boning up with the edge of the bias tape, but grossly miscalculated.

I think it is going to have to squeeze in about five inches in total, but that was measuring just what I could see which is the squishiest part of me. I don't think it will have that much load over my ribs. I swear the pattern shrunk from the mock up. The mock up I was able to comfortably close with two zippers basted on the openings.

I haven't sewn or even worn garb in several years, and it seems this bodice is determined to give me the learning curve again!

I don't have heavy grommets. All I have is cheap little eyelets from the craft store that I was going to reinforce by buttonhole stitching over them.

[gem]

Honestly, I would take the stomacher apart and move the boning. You haven't done anything irreparable at this point, so that may be your best bet.

I think you actually *want* it to be a little bit more snug than the zipper-fit version. There shouldn't be any ease at all, or it will be uncomfortable and unflattering. You should be able to breathe comfortably and move around normally, but you do want some support and a snug fit.

Go get better grommets! I get tarp grommets from the hardware store; they're nice and sturdy and stay put. I personally haven't had issues with the Dritz grommets from JoAnn, but I prefer the results I get with the tarp grommets.

[Wickedvox]

I *highly* recommend you get good grommets. I've used the Joann eyelets and they are simply not meant for our uses. They are flimsy and bend if you *look* at them wrong. I used them in a faire bodice I made and I regret it.

[RowenD]

  Like wicked said: Use good grommets if you are not going to make hand bound eyelets. 
  Get them from the hardware store and look for the ones used for tarps and canvas tents,  they usually come with the tools needed to set them

[isabelladangelo]

Take the stomacher apart and re do or, if you don't mind it looking a bit messing in the back and since it's a Fantasy bodice, just make a couple of small tubes of fabric, attach them to where you'd want the boning to be on the stomacher, and put the boning in the tubes - more like what they did in the 19th C with clothing.   It will be apart of the lining and not inside the stomacher piece.   However, you can get the boning were you want it without taking everything apart that way.   

And another one for hand bound eyelets - they are a pain in the backside but they don't rip out like those horrible little metal things.  Those metal things also have a tendency to catch threads and rip other clothing in the washing machine.